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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-14-2010, 08:24 AM Thread Starter
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Building headers?

How difficult and any advise?
Thanks
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-14-2010, 08:48 AM
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Pain in the *** if you've never done it. Gets easier with each additional set.

If you're not living on the edge you're taking up too much space!
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-14-2010, 09:16 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks

I have a set of KOOKS 2 1/8" x 4" collector headers that fit my old car (Fox body Mustang w/ D&D K-member). I have a Fox 10.5 Outlaw car with custum K-Member and the headers are hitting on the bar where the a-arms mount.
I measured the 2 before I started the swap and there was more room (2") in the new car(from where the k-member mounts at the body, just seems the area where the a-arms mount is closer.
Any advise?
Thanks
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-14-2010, 07:37 PM
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don't attempt it without a good tig welder

70' Maverick , 557 A-Head 8.90's...1969 #MATCHING MACH1 428 CJ RESTORED 1 of 1....1970 HEMI CHALLANGER
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-14-2010, 07:52 PM
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did mine with a mig, gotta be talented though............

no task for a A+ know-it-all racer like myself..................

69 Grande'
P51 headed 563
3070#'s
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-14-2010, 08:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richter69 View Post
did mine with a mig, gotta be talented though............

no task for a A+ know-it-all racer like myself..................
know-it-all racer or master bull ****ter? Either way, works for me.
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-14-2010, 08:44 PM
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I built my first set last year (with a mig welder) and really enjoyed the process. Wouldn't hesistate to do it again.

My only suggestion would be to bolt the flanges to a head before tacking the stubs. If you don't, it's possible to get the flange backwards. It's a painfull leason to learn......

Here's a couple pics of what I did:




Fastest street legal BBF on 460Ford.com
Fastest AFR headed BBF on 460Ford.com
Fastest street legal 2nd gen Montego GT on EARTH!

Last edited by CarsByCarl; 02-14-2010 at 08:50 PM.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-14-2010, 09:20 PM
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I did use the tig torch to melt some silicon bronze around the outside perimeter where the tube meets the flange (inside was regular steel weld)eeps the tubes from cracking.


My tig is an old rig, way to hot for the thin tubing, scratch start at that...........PITA.

69 Grande'
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-14-2010, 09:25 PM
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Jeez Carl,with 5 bucks and a rattle can,you coulda' put some imitation chrome on that bell lol!!
Russ
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-14-2010, 10:34 PM
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Still haven't found some 2-1 pieces to make a set of tri-y's...
They have to be available, as they are on the ones I have for an efi 460.
Tom

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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-15-2010, 06:14 AM
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Talking

Used a MIG on mine too! Does that mean I'm talented?

If you're not living on the edge you're taking up too much space!
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-15-2010, 08:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wheels123 View Post
I have a set of KOOKS 2 1/8" x 4" collector headers that fit my old car (Fox body Mustang w/ D&D K-member). I have a Fox 10.5 Outlaw car with custum K-Member and the headers are hitting on the bar where the a-arms mount.
I measured the 2 before I started the swap and there was more room (2") in the new car(from where the k-member mounts at the body, just seems the area where the a-arms mount is closer.
Any advise?
Thanks
Change K-members or reworking the one you got might be easier than modifying the headers. The Kooks headers will fit without modification if used with a proper k-member. The way that the control arms mount is the controlling factor in how much header room you have. Look how AJE, PA Racing and UPR locate their control arm mounting points in order to gain clearance.
Gary

1992 Mustang GT 502 cu/in-631 hp Street Car
A-429 heads, KOOKS headers, Rollerized C-6
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-15-2010, 08:48 PM
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A chassis builder fiend of mine told me one time to never cut the band holding the four pipes together till you're done. Course that may only work on full chassis cars.
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-18-2010, 07:13 PM
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I would modify what you have, would be the most cost effective.

Eric Millard
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-03-2010, 09:01 PM Thread Starter
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thanks

Thanks for all the help. I managed to get these headers to work by raising motor and triming the motor plate tabs. I will have to put a notch/demple in the #8 pipe for steering shaft clearance.
Thanks again.
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