Foxbody Notch Back Roll Cage Pictures? - 460 Ford Forum
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-15-2011, 02:22 PM Thread Starter
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Foxbody Notch Back Roll Cage Pictures?

Hello People...

I've been working on my 93 notchback for the last couple of weekends. I've got the engine, transmission, rearend and front K-member pulled out of it. I have a Jegster 12 point cage that I'm going to start welding in it next weekend. I was hoping I could talk the guys that have done this before into posting some pictures of their roll cages and how they are mounted and attached. You know... Where on the inside floor board they have the hoop mounted. How they ran the rear bars and where they are mounted. I also haven't decided if I should run the front bars that go into the engine bay inside of the engine compartment or if I should run them through the inside of the fenders and then bring them back into the engine bay. I have a UPR front k-member that I've cut the motor mount pads off of and I'll be using a front motor plate from Total Performance out of Michigan so the motor sits lower in the engine bay. I also have a set of Mad Dog headers that went with the motor plate. Any help, advice or pictures that you could post would be most helpful. Thanks in advance!!

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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-15-2011, 07:03 PM
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Chris what are you using for a seat? Get your seat position figured out before you try to install the hoop. Once you have that figured get the wife out there with a Sharpie and mark the hieght of your shoudlers inside of the door frame for referance, also drop a stringline down over your shoulder and mark that spot on the floor that will be where you want to put the front edge of the tube for the main hoop.

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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-15-2011, 07:13 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Chris what are you using for a seat? Get your seat position figured out before you try to install the hoop. Once you have that figured get the wife out there with a Sharpie and mark the hieght of your shoudlers inside of the door frame for referance, also drop a stringline down over your shoulder and mark that spot on the floor that will be where you want to put the front edge of the tube for the main hoop.
I was going to get some kind or Kirkey. Got any suggestions on make and model seat? I was going to order it either tomorrow or Monday so it was here by next weekend. Also do I need some kind of rails to bolt the seat to the floor with? I'm not sure I need them. I sure don't need to sit up high. I'm 6'4" and 250 pounds. I'm slightly worried that once I get the door bars in I won't be able to get in the thing. I put the stock Mustang seats in my truck when I caged that because the bench seat didn't work when caged. I drove the Mustang a few times with no seats at all. I seemed to fit fine... Not real safe but I'm way out in the country and was just going down the road.

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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-15-2011, 10:33 PM
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I would get your seat first and see if you need to raise it any if not I would mount it right to the floor. The last time I used aftermarket seats I used the fiberglass ones and they are not very comfortable that's for sure. I know what you mean about getting in and out, I thought about putting in a swingout doorbar more than once but I just don't like them (don't seem strong enough). Some things I did was put the shouder bar as low as I could legally which also allows you to lower the back end of the doorbar lower.

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528ci of N/A power

Circle R Racing Engines

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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-16-2011, 02:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigblok86ranger View Post
I would get your seat first and see if you need to raise it any if not I would mount it right to the floor. The last time I used aftermarket seats I used the fiberglass ones and they are not very comfortable that's for sure. I know what you mean about getting in and out, I thought about putting in a swingout doorbar more than once but I just don't like them (don't seem strong enough). Some things I did was put the shouder bar as low as I could legally which also allows you to lower the back end of the doorbar lower.
X2 on mounting the seat 1st. You will also need it into make sure the door bars are at the correct hight. If you are looking for good cheap seats with mounts look at the Scat Procar ones. They are really comfortable and do not cost and arm and a leg. Jegs has them in stock. They are the ones I used in the 63.

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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-17-2011, 06:52 PM Thread Starter
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X2 on mounting the seat 1st. You will also need it into make sure the door bars are at the correct hight. If you are looking for good cheap seats with mounts look at the Scat Procar ones. They are really comfortable and do not cost and arm and a leg. Jegs has them in stock. They are the ones I used in the 63.

Clay
Thanks for the tip. I was looking at the Procar ones but I wondered how good they were made and how they would hold up.. If we are talking about the same ones they are about $159 a piece and you don't have to buy a seat cover for them. I think I will give them a try. They look pretty cool as well. Did your's hold up well and not look real cheap I guess?

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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-17-2011, 08:33 PM
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My race seats are bolted on slotted angle iron. It's cheap, easy and allows you to adjust if needed.
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-18-2011, 10:41 PM
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Give Joe Mayabb a call, http://www.joesraceparts.com/current-specials, he's a member here.
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-19-2011, 04:02 AM
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Here are some photos of one I did last year

dkp
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-19-2011, 08:22 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks BossHoss. That is most helpful!! What is the metal 2x4 running under the drivers seat for? Also what is the metal hoop for on the inside? Or is that an inside driveshaft loop?

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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-19-2011, 08:05 PM
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Looks like the front crossmember for either ladderbars or 4-link by the fact the floors are cut out from there back.

Eric Millard
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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-19-2011, 08:46 PM Thread Starter
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That is terrible... I'm color blind and I didn't even notice that the floors were cut out. ...duh. I see it now that you said something. It all looked the same to me. Good thing I know for sure that the last bulb on the bottom of the tree is GREEN!! Otherwise I'd probably sit there for a while until I finally noticed that the other guy is gone!

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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-19-2011, 10:31 PM
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LMAO!

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528ci of N/A power

Circle R Racing Engines

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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-19-2011, 11:11 PM
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Yep Ranger got it. that car was a back half deal. The bar under the seat is a frame connector to the front clip from the new front four link crossmember. Glad I could help.

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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-21-2011, 12:35 AM
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Do you have an NHRA rulebook? I think some of the mounting points like the hoop have to be in certain places,I know they like the doorbars to intersect your arm somewhere I don't know exactly(alot of it will be in the nhra rulebook,I just don't have one handy).
As far as seat mounts,I'm gonna use these in my newest project:

http://shop.holcombmotorsports.com/p...&categoryId=68

With these seats, I'm gonna have a friend make me some covers that will match the gray and black of the car:

http://shop.holcombmotorsports.com/p...roductId=1377:
Good luck,
Jr.

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85gt 466/c-6 sold
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