Still Having Brake Line-Lock Issues - 460 Ford Forum
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post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-21-2011, 09:53 PM Thread Starter
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Still Having Brake Line-Lock Issues

i was at my locker track not too long ago and i've been confirmed that my tires have to be wet for the line lock to work properly. well at best if i drive thru a freshly wet asphalt and punch it really hard and let go of the clutch i can stay still for a second or two at best then i start getting pushed forward.

with this, i don't know if i'm really warming up my tires or just cleaning them off. at minimum i'm barely getting any smoke off of them.

heres a video of the best burn out i could get.

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post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-21-2011, 10:09 PM Thread Starter
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i forgot to include that i'm running summitracing 17x9's that i got widened to 17x11's with nitto nt05r's 315/35/17's.

now i'm looking into full slicks cuz i'm still having traction issues and i really can't launch hard with the spinning. but when i do, i don't know if i'll be able to heat those up either.


i need to find out if i can get some 15's over my cobra brakes. guys with 94-04 cobras seem to get them on but they either run into some suspension bolt or the banjo bolt being too thick. i don't have that suspension problem because i have them on a 73 and i have SS lines with thin banjo bolts.
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post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-21-2011, 10:10 PM
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Have you tried pumping the brake pedal a few more times AFTER engaging the line lock?

I think doing this increases the line pressure.

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post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-21-2011, 10:13 PM
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Are you "rocking" into your burn-out?

If you're not living on the edge you're taking up too much space!
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post #5 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-21-2011, 10:38 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Have you tried pumping the brake pedal a few more times AFTER engaging the line lock?

I think doing this increases the line pressure.
before applying the switch, i pump my brakes a few times and press real hard. then i do my business.

hell there was one pass i did and i had it applied the whole time and i was able to still do a 13.5 pass. i knew it was on when i coasted to the turn off lane and my brakes were applied.
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post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-21-2011, 10:39 PM Thread Starter
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Are you "rocking" into your burn-out?
i don't understand what they means? could you explain?
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post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-22-2011, 02:33 AM
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I would try as the Dakota boy is telling, apply the button, pump twice hard the brake pedal and try again. If this is not working, then how is your line-lock wired & plumped? My linelock is in the front brake line, I apply the button, pump 2 times and I've got enough pressure to keep the car on hold. I do the burnout directly from the second gear. I raise the rpm to 3500-4000 rpm and I let the clutch come up quickly, I dont bounce it but I raise my foot quickly and let the torque do his job. Once there is enough smoke I release the button keeping the throttle on for a second or two.

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post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-22-2011, 10:17 AM
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You need a pressure gauge in the car and you need to set it at about 800+ lbs of pressure before you hold the button. You can't just gently apply the brakes and it work properly. Plus eventually the back tires start gripping and will just slide the front tires.... Lastly at the point it is hooking that well, you really don't need to do much more of a burnout. Burnouts are truely not as necissary as most would think. I have had things happen where I couldn't do one before my run in the Pro Stock car, and just staged it and was low for the round in 60' and so on!

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post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-22-2011, 12:50 PM
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Really no need to do a burn-out with street tires

If you're not living on the edge you're taking up too much space!
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post #10 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-22-2011, 01:15 PM
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Well that is somewhat true... But he is running a Street Radial tire and those do really get sticky when they get some heat into them. Now if you are talking your run of the mill street tire, then it doesn't do anything for you.

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post #11 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-22-2011, 05:09 PM
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TRubles

I have found that if you do not plumb the line lock properly it will not work well. If you mix up the in and out. Had the same issue, mine was plumbed backwards.
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post #12 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-22-2011, 09:51 PM Thread Starter
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before install my linelock i can slam on my brakes just about 10-15 yards before a stop sign going 55mph and get them to stop really fast and get the front brakes to lock up. my cobra brake conversion works perfectly.

then i installed the line lock and i just followed summitracing.com's diagram for plumbing and wiring. i have a inlet hooked up from the MC and then a line out going into my TEE fitting. after we installed it i bled the brakes and tested it out. however we bled it i found a slight leak still and tightened it up, but i never re bled the brakes. so i'm assuming i ingested more air into the system at this time. my brakes still brake very strong and hard but it just takes more effort.

can some air being in the system completely cause my line lock to be so so at best? i will re bleed the brakes but its going to take a few weeks until i can get back to the track.
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post #13 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-23-2011, 02:51 AM
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I would definitely bleed the brake system. Air is compressing, liquid is not, simply hydraulics. If you press the brake pedal, activate the linelock, and press again the brake pedal, does the car still starts to roll when you are trying to get some smoke out of the tires?

At dragstrip you don't have to warm up the standard street tires, only quick hammering on the throttle to get the dirt off. Normal street tire gets worst when it heats up. Street slicks & real slicks are different story. For a massive burnout just for fun, linelock and street tires are nice combination.

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post #14 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-23-2011, 03:33 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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I would definitely bleed the brake system. Air is compressing, liquid is not, simply hydraulics. If you press the brake pedal, activate the linelock, and press again the brake pedal, does the car still starts to roll when you are trying to get some smoke out of the tires?

At dragstrip you don't have to warm up the standard street tires, only quick hammering on the throttle to get the dirt off. Normal street tire gets worst when it heats up. Street slicks & real slicks are different story. For a massive burnout just for fun, linelock and street tires are nice combination.
i'm not running standard tires. i'm running nitto drag radials.

since you and i have the same set up car (besides some motor differenes) are you able to stay still when doing your burnout?
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post #15 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-23-2011, 03:56 AM
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i'm not running standard tires. i'm running nitto drag radials.

since you and i have the same set up car (besides some motor differenes) are you able to stay still when doing your burnout?
Yes, car sits like a rock until I release the linelock button. Works on normal asphalt & tarmac on burnout box. I do make the burnout directly from the second gear with 4.11 gears, detroitlocker, TKO600 and 29.5x9-15 ET Drag MT (# 3056ST).

As Cale recommended the brakepressure gauge, it would be a handy even in stageing. Apply the same pressure 600 lbs or so and you can use linelock to control the movement, handy with manual transmission car.

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