please help me choose a race only wheel/tire combo - 460 Ford Forum
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-25-2011, 04:23 AM Thread Starter
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please help me choose a race only wheel/tire combo

currently i have 17x8/17x11 wheels with street tires in the front and a nitto drag radial in the rear. my last track night i can still easily spin my tires trying to somewhat launch and the tires spin in the first 3 gears. so i thought i should go with some kind of slick so i can launch as hard as i can.

i've been researching what wheels are using with cobra brakes. of course i'm looking at the cars that actually come with cobra brakes from the factory and my set up will be different with my 73. it looks like most people are able to use 15's on they without much fit. some people are saying they need to grind the caliper face or grind at the banjo bolt. since i have a conversion kit i'll have to find out what i'll have to do. there is another company that has the rear cobra brake conversion that it'll allow a 15 to fit.

there really isn't a better way to find out if a 15x10 with a 5.5BS will work (might need a 6.5 if a spacer is needed) than to get one and mount them.

now i'm searching on what kind of slicks to buy. i'm researching and learning that its forbidden to run bias ply slicks with street tires/radials. and seen a few videos of guys crashing at the end of the track when the tires start to wander. absolutely don't want that to happen. and researching further, there are slicks that are actual radials. SO IS IT OK TO RUN STREET TIRES WITH RADIAL SLICKS? now the only problem i am finding with radial slicks is that there isn't any 26 inch slicks or very limited in choices. i don't know if i should go with a 28 tall tire because i only have 3.5 gears. my first two gears in my tko600 are really low so my 3.5 gears make them usable.

i would like to just have a extra set of rear wheels/tire for the track only if i could!!! but would a bias ply slick really benefit me at all? if i go that route, there is a matching 15x4 wheel that'll go with my rears i just ordered. but i'm afraid with skinnies in the front that if i had to stop really hard the front tire being really skinny won't give me that great of braking power to stop with.

so what will be the best route with the wheels n tires? please help.

at my last drag night with my mild 460, i got a best of 13.337 @ 104mph with my carb not being tuned(front swaybar still not disconnected) (it sits in a carb shop now being custom calibrated) i'm hoping with my front swaybar disconnected and some serious traction and a carb calibrated for my set up that i can possibly sneak out a 12.999. and when i get back from my deployment i'm going to do some more motor work.
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-25-2011, 10:28 AM
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The Radials you are talking about that look like slicks are NOT DOT approved and will get you in trouble if caught. However M/T does make a radial that has bite on the track and will be ok on the street. That being said after our discussions, I think you need to just try a full slick at the track, and have another set of wheels and tires for the street. But let me know what everyone else thinks....

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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-25-2011, 12:04 PM
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I've never heard of a radial slick. The closest thing to a slick that I've experienced in a radial application is the Hoosier drag radial. I believe it is DOT approved, but there is no tread except for two shallow grooves. I've used these along with the M/T drag radials and find the Hoosiers to be a bit more sticky, but they don't last as long as the Mickeys...and you definitely don't want to get caught in the rain with them. Both should be a big improvement over the Nittos and work fine with street tire fronts.

FWIW, I also run a mild 466 in a foxbody, best of 11.20, 1.58 60'.
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-25-2011, 02:39 PM Thread Starter
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i'm absolutley not going to use these on the street. i'll leave my 17x11 wheels with the nittos on the street.

i'll only slap these on when i am about to hit the track.

if i had to go skinnies up front, the price for the wheels isn't bad at all that match the rears i just ordered. its just that the tire for them seems steep for almost nothing for a tire.

will skinny tire up front will brake really well?
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-26-2011, 01:32 AM Thread Starter
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i got the 15x10's in tonight and with no spacer the wheel is about 1/16-1/8 inch away from touching the banjo bolt. however i don't think the two will ever meet though. correct me if i'm wrong!!! however i do have some spare 1/4 inch spacers that i could use. with the spacer in there it fits great. the wheel has a 5.5BS and about 4.5 off offset, and i'm pushing the wheel 1/4 inch and by now i'm getting close to it possibly rubbing but i got my fender rolled. i would also have to make sure the flat edge of the banjo bolt is towards the wheel and not the edge.

guys on the 71-73 mustang with run a 15x10 with a 5.5BS and run a 295/50/15 and it only rub on speed bumpers with the lips not rolled. but since i got mine rolled and maybe not as wide of a tire/slick i'll be fine.

or should i run no spacer and just grind away at the banjo bolt? will the small clearance from wheel to banjo bolt pose a problem?
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-26-2011, 03:22 AM
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I agree with Cale, you will absolutely need a real drag slick to be able to get the most out of it.

When I had a stock widht rear axle in my mustang with original bb drums, I was using 15x10 wheels with 6" of backspace, that was just perfect match, I had 325/50-15 ET streets and it did fit ok - I had standard eye leafsprings so I got the space between tire and fender. Once the rear was lowered, thent the tires came too close to fenderwell.

Here's the picture with original rear axle and with the standard height leafs and 15x10 6" bs and 325/50-15.


15x10 with 6" bs you should be just fine with 295/50-15 tire, no rubbing at all. I still would go as tall tire as possible 28-29 1/2" as usuall I do, but in your case, you have 4.11 gears and you got the torque of a bigblock. So tall tire will downsize your gears so "use the Force" You will need to measure the correct widht, bs etc. If you have a Cobra rear brakes, it can affect 1/4" for the rear width per side.

I ordered a new M9 rear from Moser and it was shortened 1/2" per side from the original '71-'73 rear widht only because I wanted to be to use Weld Prostars with 5,5" backspace. I am running 15x9 prostars with # 3056ST 29.5 x 9 - 15 ET Drag slicks and the compound or the sidewells are made for manual transmission cars. Fitment is as good as it gets - I got lucky obviously!!! Section is allmost 13" wide and the threat is 9" as manufacturer announces. Here's a picture from my current combo before the fenders were rolled:


- '72 Mach 1 460 (A429+G429)+TKO600+M9" DL
- intermediate go fast project
TOTAL PERFORMANCE

Last edited by Finmach; 08-26-2011 at 03:34 AM.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-26-2011, 08:34 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Finmach View Post
I agree with Cale, you will absolutely need a real drag slick to be able to get the most out of it.

When I had a stock widht rear axle in my mustang with original bb drums, I was using 15x10 wheels with 6" of backspace, that was just perfect match, I had 325/50-15 ET streets and it did fit ok - I had standard eye leafsprings so I got the space between tire and fender. Once the rear was lowered, thent the tires came too close to fenderwell.

Here's the picture with original rear axle and with the standard height leafs and 15x10 6" bs and 325/50-15.


15x10 with 6" bs you should be just fine with 295/50-15 tire, no rubbing at all. I still would go as tall tire as possible 28-29 1/2" as usuall I do, but in your case, you have 4.11 gears and you got the torque of a bigblock. So tall tire will downsize your gears so "use the Force" You will need to measure the correct widht, bs etc. If you have a Cobra rear brakes, it can affect 1/4" for the rear width per side.

I ordered a new M9 rear from Moser and it was shortened 1/2" per side from the original '71-'73 rear widht only because I wanted to be to use Weld Prostars with 5,5" backspace. I am running 15x9 prostars with # 3056ST 29.5 x 9 - 15 ET Drag slicks and the compound or the sidewells are made for manual transmission cars. Fitment is as good as it gets - I got lucky obviously!!! Section is allmost 13" wide and the threat is 9" as manufacturer announces. Here's a picture from my current combo before the fenders were rolled:

What front tires were/are you running? Are u running a bias ply tire or a radial? Are u even running a skinny front?
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-28-2011, 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by xoliex View Post
What front tires were/are you running? Are u running a bias ply tire or a radial? Are u even running a skinny front?
I am running standard 215/60-15 Firestone Fuelsavers, you know you just got to save gas somewhere I have been thinking of getting 15x5 front Prostars and 185/80-15 (hair under 27" fronts). I am probably buying 1 season used 15x5 fronts from a 9.3s ET race car - I am hoping that it would make my car faster with those "fast wheels"...!!!??!

- '72 Mach 1 460 (A429+G429)+TKO600+M9" DL
- intermediate go fast project
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-28-2011, 11:46 PM Thread Starter
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I am running standard 215/60-15 Firestone Fuelsavers, you know you just got to save gas somewhere I have been thinking of getting 15x5 front Prostars and 185/80-15 (hair under 27" fronts). I am probably buying 1 season used 15x5 fronts from a 9.3s ET race car - I am hoping that it would make my car faster with those "fast wheels"...!!!??!
so i am assuming you are not having a problem running street radials with the full slicks in the back?

i want to change the fronts to skinnies but cale has gotten me to put the money elsewhere where needed.
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-30-2011, 07:45 PM
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Becareful on the launches with those new sticky tires. I'm not sure if your car is stock on the underside or not but when you start sticking the power to the pavement is right about when you start snapping stock drivetrain parts.

....don't ask how I know.




Good luck and have fun. They did look great on there!!

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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-30-2011, 09:27 PM Thread Starter
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Becareful on the launches with those new sticky tires. I'm not sure if your car is stock on the underside or not but when you start sticking the power to the pavement is right about when you start snapping stock drivetrain parts.

....don't ask how I know.




Good luck and have fun. They did look great on there!!
I got a tko600 trans, 1350 front u joint then to a 1350-Cleveland cap u joint, the driveline is a 3 inch dia with .065 wall, nodular case, tom's 31 spline axles. Not quite a stock SBF original stang!
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-31-2011, 10:41 AM
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Sounds like you are going to have some fun. Enjoy the ride!!

What tire pressure do you plan to run with them? I know I always had to air mine down a good bit to make them bite.

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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-31-2011, 08:29 PM Thread Starter
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Sounds like you are going to have some fun. Enjoy the ride!!

What tire pressure do you plan to run with them? I know I always had to air mine down a good bit to make them bite.
The tires says they can run higher psi so I guess I'll start with 20 psi n adjust from there.
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-11-2012, 01:16 AM Thread Starter
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The tires says they can run higher psi so I guess I'll start with 20 psi n adjust from there.
after about 25 passes or so with slicks, the tires seem to like 14-15psi. however with 12psi i lifted my tires off the ground the most but i has alot of tire walking throughout most of the track. tire felt super loose with 12psi. there are times where 13psi feels loose, so i stick with 14-15.
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