help - why did my axle housing rotate forward? - 460 Ford Forum
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-14-2011, 11:56 PM Thread Starter
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help - why did my axle housing rotate upward?

well after a night of racing with 7 passes before my starter goes dead (71 429 mustang replacement) and replaced with a 96 F350 460 manual trans starter, i noticed my car is leaning towards the driver side and has that gangster lean. i couldn't find anythign wrong with the car so i put my street wheels/tires back on and i have a vibration at 45mph+ so i go back under there and i find my pinoin yoke point up towards the floor board and the driveline is angled wrong. i disconnect my driveline thinking my driveline is bent to hell, i lay it over a straight table and both the end yokes line up perfectly laying on the table. i then look at my 3rd member pinoin yoke and that thing is pointing up, i couldn't figure out why it would do that other than it was bent. i would rotate it and it stayed in the same angle instead of point down when you rotated it.

i started looking at broken springs and etc and i find that my axle housing. i find that the forward part perches is up and point up at a 45degree angle. the perches rounded off and is sitting on the back side of the leaf spring.

i have aftermarket 5 leaf springs for springs, doetsch tech drag shocks, and of course a ford 9 inch with 31 spline axles. i also have my entire u bolt, shock mount, and everything replaced with "competition engineering" slapper bars.

the leaf spring has a bolt going down the middle of the leaf spring to hold together all the springs. well the bolt was a little bit too long so i had to trim off the extra threads to make the leaf spring fit into the hold of the slapper bar. i make it just barely fit and bolted it up. i don't know if i didn't grind it enough to where maybe the bolt was able to let the axle tidder todder or something but somehow the axle rotated forward.

i remember getting all the u joints on with an air rachet i have and then getting them all tight with a 1/2 breaker bar. the nuts are locking nuts so i don't think they backed up. on the other side of hte slapper bar is another nut to make sure the slaper bar doesn't go up either.

what do you think caused me to make the axle rotate up? i'm running a fairly mild 460 in a 73 mustang with a 5spd manual. most of the time at the track i was launching at 2000-2500rpms. most of the day i was fishtailing to the left when i launched if i launched more than 2500rpms and thats the side my car was leaning onto.

is there somekind of device to add to my year mustang to keep the axle from rotating or is it a waste with a mild motor that see's drag racing only once a month?

Last edited by xoliex; 09-15-2011 at 10:06 PM.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-15-2011, 04:22 AM
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axle problem

I would ditch the 5 leaf spring set up & slapper bars. Go with the Cal Trac single spring & Cal Trac bars made for 71-73 Mach-1. Works great for street & strip use.

Secondly, replace the perches and add a support plate to "box the perch into the axle tube. This modification adds plenty of support. Also add a tack weld or two to the axle tube @ the center section area. If your really gonna put some hp & traction to it, add a back support to the housing to reduce flex. Hope that helps.

QUOTE=xoliex;991414]well after a night of racing with 7 passes before my starter goes dead (71 429 mustang replacement) and replaced with a 96 F350 460 manual trans starter, i noticed my car is leaning towards the driver side and has that gangster lean. i couldn't find anythign wrong with the car so i put my street wheels/tires back on and i have a vibration at 45mph+ so i go back under there and i find my pinoin yoke point up towards the floor board and the driveline is angled wrong. i disconnect my driveline thinking my driveline is bent to hell, i lay it over a straight table and both the end yokes line up perfectly laying on the table. i then look at my 3rd member pinoin yoke and that thing is pointing up, i couldn't figure out why it would do that other than it was bent. i would rotate it and it stayed in the same angle instead of point down when you rotated it.

i started looking at broken springs and etc and i find that my axle housing. i find that the forward part perches is up and point up at a 45degree angle. the perches rounded off and is sitting on the back side of the leaf spring.

i have aftermarket 5 leaf springs for springs, doetsch tech drag shocks, and of course a ford 9 inch with 31 spline axles. i also have my entire u bolt, shock mount, and everything replaced with "competition engineering" slapper bars.

the leaf spring has a bolt going down the middle of the leaf spring to hold together all the springs. well the bolt was a little bit too long so i had to trim off the extra threads to make the leaf spring fit into the hold of the slapper bar. i make it just barely fit and bolted it up. i don't know if i didn't grind it enough to where maybe the bolt was able to let the axle tidder todder or something but somehow the axle rotated forward.

i remember getting all the u joints on with an air rachet i have and then getting them all tight with a 1/2 breaker bar. the nuts are locking nuts so i don't think they backed up. on the other side of hte slapper bar is another nut to make sure the slaper bar doesn't go up either.

what do you think caused me to make the axle rotate up? i'm running a fairly mild 460 in a 73 mustang with a 5spd manual. most of the time at the track i was launching at 2000-2500rpms. most of the day i was fishtailing to the left when i launched if i launched more than 2500rpms and thats the side my car was leaning onto.

is there somekind of device to add to my year mustang to keep the axle from rotating or is it a waste with a mild motor that see's drag racing only once a month?[/QUOTE]

No matter how hard they try, "Rice Burners"cannot hide from my BBF-545 !
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-15-2011, 07:33 AM
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One other thing to look for is that maybe the welds that hold your center section to the tube may have broke and spun on your axle tubes.



Dan

www.shazampulling.com

The older I get the less I seem to know.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-15-2011, 07:36 AM
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Friend of mine has 600hp stroker Windsor in his '69 Mustang. Car received a brand spanking new chassis engineering FAB 9 rearhousing made for '65 Mustang width and for leafsprings. Car has cal-tracs, 28" tall and 12.5" wide Hoosier DOT slicks, Calvert monoleafs, 4.33 gears and on the second run on quarter it broke the u-joints u-bolt from the rear. Tough luck he though until he started to change the u-bolt. Rear housings both spring pearches were practically rolled open from the rear side of the housing and it caused that the whole housing to rotate so that the pinion angle went absurd and it broke the u-bolt from the yoke. New housing, second blast on quarter and the both pearches went broken. I tought that the FAB9 fom CE should have been a quality piece.

I would have the perch boxed like these Calvert Racing Perches, looks very nice:

http://www.calvertracing.com/springperch.php

- '72 Mach 1 460 (A429+G429)+TKO600+M9" DL
- intermediate go fast project
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-15-2011, 12:56 PM Thread Starter
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i called cal trac on these boxed perches. and i told him my whole story and he said since i'm using a small bearing housing and might want to go to a large bearing housing later if my 31 spline axles don't hold up then i might want to hold off on these perches.

he suggested all i do is take the spare axle housing that i have (its cleaned up, painted and ready to install now) and have any machine shop that can weld a piece of steel to brake the perch to the axle housing to brace it from rotating forward. my perches on my OEM housing rounded off because there is only thin steel keeping it from bowing. so the guy at cal trac said that added steel will prevent it from rounding. the machine shop said if you do one thing, do it to the other side.

he said this aftermarket perch stuff is for somebody who haves to relocate his anyways and wants something boxed already and can be tack welded immediately after arrival. he said there are other minor advantages going with their piece but what i could have a machine shop do to my stock axle housing would be just as good if everything else is good to go. especialy if i'm possibly going to change to 35 spline axles/housing.

i spoke to him about the possibilities to going mono leaf and his cal trac traction bars when i return from my deployment.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-15-2011, 02:43 PM
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You can go with the stock small bearing housing with 35 splines axles. You can find bearings from Moser for that application. I was going to upgrade my stock housing at first with 31 splines, then decided to go with 35 splines with Moser bearing and finally things got out of hand and I went with new Moser M9 housing with rear support bracket. Actually when my friend roundened his FAB9 stock perches I got worried too. Comparing FAB9 to Moser M9, Moser has thicker perches but I am also thinking of boxing&welding just to be on safe side.

If you decide to go with aftermarker housing, I believe that Chassis Engineering or Moser both could do the boxing for the perches if you just ask them to do that. Since they are welding the rears anyway.

So where is your deployment heading? Any change visiting Finland? Give me a shout if you do, not much driving season left but could pound some ground for a good reason.

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-15-2011, 04:05 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Finmach View Post
You can go with the stock small bearing housing with 35 splines axles. You can find bearings from Moser for that application. I was going to upgrade my stock housing at first with 31 splines, then decided to go with 35 splines with Moser bearing and finally things got out of hand and I went with new Moser M9 housing with rear support bracket. Actually when my friend roundened his FAB9 stock perches I got worried too. Comparing FAB9 to Moser M9, Moser has thicker perches but I am also thinking of boxing&welding just to be on safe side.

If you decide to go with aftermarker housing, I believe that Chassis Engineering or Moser both could do the boxing for the perches if you just ask them to do that. Since they are welding the rears anyway.

So where is your deployment heading? Any change visiting Finland? Give me a shout if you do, not much driving season left but could pound some ground for a good reason.
hell, if i can keep the housing i am having custom boxed as we speak then, the better. i have aftermarket 31 splines right now and i don't know if i'll get to the HP level to where i'll need 35 splines or not. i wanna keep the car a street and strip car application but meet all the NHRA regulations.

i wonder with such a large axle with such thing bearings will last and hold up for.

is there a add on device to keep the axle housing from rotating up other than these boxed perches?
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-16-2011, 02:19 AM
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Xoliex, I have not seen the Moser bearings to small bearing rear with 35 axles, but it is obvious that it gets thinner.

Here's is a fellow FE-guy thinking of getting his pinion angle good. He's thinking of desing that is pictured in the link.

http://www.network54.com/Forum/76346...d+weekend+pics

You could get yourself a new housing, build it with time with good perches, buy the 35 axles, 3.250" case, 35 spl detroitlocker etc and when everything is modified, painted and ready to go together, then dissamble your big rear brakes and assemble the new rear. Then you can keep the old rear without brakes, either to store or sell it when the market is good.

How about your leafs u-bolts? originals or 1/2"? If you are running the 3/8 original u-bolts, then ditch them and buy a premium 1/2" or even bigger.

- '72 Mach 1 460 (A429+G429)+TKO600+M9" DL
- intermediate go fast project
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-16-2011, 02:26 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Finmach View Post
Xoliex, I have not seen the Moser bearings to small bearing rear with 35 axles, but it is obvious that it gets thinner.

Here's is a fellow FE-guy thinking of getting his pinion angle good. He's thinking of desing that is pictured in the link.

http://www.network54.com/Forum/76346...d+weekend+pics

You could get yourself a new housing, build it with time with good perches, buy the 35 axles, 3.250" case, 35 spl detroitlocker etc and when everything is modified, painted and ready to go together, then dissamble your big rear brakes and assemble the new rear. Then you can keep the old rear without brakes, either to store or sell it when the market is good.

How about your leafs u-bolts? originals or 1/2"? If you are running the 3/8 original u-bolts, then ditch them and buy a premium 1/2" or even bigger.
i was considering if maybe a company out there sells the axle housing ends so that can just be welded to my housing that just got its perches bent up. if not, i was thinking maybe there is a big bearing housing that can just be modified and shortened to mirror my 73 housing.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-16-2011, 08:11 PM Thread Starter
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heres what i did to modify my spare axle housing to make sure the saddle perches don't round up anymore

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