And I'm certainly not trying to spend your money. I know the MM subframes are nice pieces...I've used them/installed them, myself, on the '90 and '92 cars I had. I built my own on another '90 I had after that and built several other sets for friends and installed them.
I will say that through-floor units make are a night-and-day difference even over the MM/full-length weld-on units. I understand your sentiment about wanting to simply get the thing going. That said, if you decide you might wanna go the through-floor route, a good read (while the work is a bit sloppy, in my opinion) and good guideline of how to do your own through-floor subframes is here: http://forums.corral.net/forums/road...or-instal.html
Chassis Engineering, Wolfe Racecraft, Griggs, etc., all sell through-floor subframes but I don't think any of them actually are as good as ones that install INTO the frame sections such as what the referenced link above shows. I built a '93 with a set of through-floor subframes I built (similar to the link) and ran the tubing back into the rear frame rail deep enough that it acted as reinforcing member for the control arms/torque box. I drilled out the tubing, sleeved it to the diameter of the control arm bolts and then used a long bolt to locate the tubing in the rear frame (with the bolt running through the control arm) and plug welded the tubing in place...then finished getting the rest of the tubing in place, tack welded, then finish welded everything up. That car, even without a cage in it, felt and drove SOLID.
EDIT: I went back to the website and realized the non-powder coated MM full length subframe connectors are like $135.00. That's not too bad a price, all things considered. I'd guess you'd go that route (versus the black powdercoated ones...which cost more) as you'd paint them the same color as the car anyhow.