93 Fox Rear Seat Delete? - 460 Ford Forum
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-30-2012, 03:05 PM Thread Starter
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93 Fox Rear Seat Delete?

I need to get the rear of my 1993 Mustang sealed up. I have a roll cage in it and the rear bars terminate right next to the rear shock towers. I have a Summit foam filled 10 gallon fuel cell sitting where the spare tire used to be. Nothing protrudes down through the floor. It is all inside the trunk area. I also have the cheesy cardboard rug piece out off the rear deck where the rear car audio speakers used to go. So there are all kinds of holes in the metal that the carboard carpet piece used to sit on so you can still see down into the trunk through the rear window. I guess my question is what will suffice to get this thing legal to run with both the fuel cell and battery in the back of the car? (I do know about the cut off switch for the battery and I already have that mounted to the rear bumper and wired to the battery) Sealing this thing up air tight where nothing will ever come in from back there seems a bit impossible. I've also seen the rear seat delete kits but I don't want to go that route. It would just have to be modified anyway so it would fit in around th roll cage bars. Does anybody have any advice for this? Or do I just buy a sheet of aluminium or metal, cut to fit and put it in? If anybody has any pictures to post that would be most helpful as well. I'm still just trying to figure all of this stuff out on my own. Or I should say figure this stuff out with everybody here helping me out. This place is my only resource for such info. Thanks in advance for any input you have.

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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-31-2012, 03:56 PM Thread Starter
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Any ideas?

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-31-2012, 06:56 PM
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sealed

Somebody ought to have a rule book, so u`ll know for sure and won`t have to redo it...............Bill
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-31-2012, 07:44 PM
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A quick Google search turned up this;

NHRA rulebook for 7.50 or slower says .024 inch steel or .032 aluminum. Bulkhead must isolate driver compartment from trunk.

Jess
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-31-2012, 08:20 PM Thread Starter
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This may seem like a lame excuse but I have the rule book. The "isolate" part is what confuses me. You can get into the trunk from either side of the rear wheel well area. It doesn't matter if you go straight through the back or around from the inside of the car and out by the outside fender. You can still get into the back of the trunk (the same way the wiring runs to be back lights basically). I have no more plastic inner panels in the car and I do not intend to put them back. So trying to "isolate" the rear trunk area from the drivers compartment is almost an exercise if futility. Maybe I'm just thinking about it too much but I know I have to do something. I just have no technical experts to ask other than on here and like I said the rule book can be confusing. It seems like it is written by lawyers for racers and that is a bad combo.

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-01-2012, 12:55 AM
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I believe it has to be completely sealed from fumes or fire from the passenger compartment Chris. And like was said above, minimum of .031 thick aluminum sheet. Just cut two separate pieces, one for the package tray area, and a big flat one for the back or the rear seat area. Then seal the seams with seam sealer or equivalent. Then put a nice big Ford oval sticker where the seat back was!

557ci 70 Maverick, [email protected] 1.25 60ft.... So far....
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-01-2012, 09:03 AM
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I have an 86 foxbody hatch. I just bought a 4'x10' sheet of .032 aluminum and fabbed a firewall that runs frm window to window I looked wolfe racecraft's bulkhead pics and fabbed my own http://www.wolferacecraft.com/detail.aspx?ID=295 the 4'x10' sheet was 55$ and I have enough left over to fab some door panels ect.

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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-02-2012, 04:49 PM
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Get some construction paper,masking tape and a couple of Sharpies.Probably find that all panels will fit around the down tubes better if made in several pieces.Must go all the way from side to side.Then fill in under the quarter windows.Make sure the paper templates fit well,then leave a little extra when you cut the metal.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-02-2012, 07:04 PM Thread Starter
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I like the multip piece idea and I'll go with an aluminium sheet. It almost seems that it will have to be built in a multi piece unit like that so it will go around the rear bars. I also like the cardboard template idea for the side panels. I have some really big boxes now that I can cut up and use (just got the headers back from Nirto Plate. That was a big box). I was just hoping that I didn't have to seal it all up but it looks like that is going to be inevitable. Can you get a tub of seam sealer or something? When I went to Autozone to get some before from when I did the firewall holes all they had was small little tubes of it. I'm thinking that something like a little pint jar would be enough but the little tubes they had just didn't hold much at all. And thanks for all the replies. I was traveling this week and didn't get to get on here all that much at the end of the week.

...I also liked the idea of painting it white and putting a big "FORD" sticker on it in between where the two rear bars run. I think I'm going to have to do that. That would look pretty cool on the inside.

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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-03-2012, 02:01 AM
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I had a big ford oval with checkered flags behind it in my old Cobra drag car. It looked good in there! You should be able to get seam sealer in a tube that will fit in a caulking gun. That should work fine. If not seam sealer, anything comparable will work just fine too. Now get that beast running!

557ci 70 Maverick, [email protected] 1.25 60ft.... So far....
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-04-2012, 09:42 PM
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You could always check with Scott Rod Fab if you don't want to make one yourself he has nice pieces.
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