Raging85 build thread - 460 Ford Forum
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post #1 of 57 (permalink) Old 06-08-2014, 01:31 PM Thread Starter
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Raging85 build thread

Hey guys, its been a long time coming but things are finally starting to roll! It still won't be ready for this season but I should be ready to roll next year.
Engine is a 547ci bbf, old motorsport Aheads with 2.30 intake, ford racing 4 bolt main block. The builder says 900hp+. I dont have cam specs yet as it is still to be ground with a different firing order. Frame and axles come from a '79 F150 and hopefully my old '85 ford body will be made to fit with a shortbox. I do have access to a ranger body but not sure I will go there becasue of the class bump. I will do as much gutting as possible but I need to stay in my class. I'm hoping for the 500 super stock or the 700 pro stock(see what the association says). I will also attach those rules.
I really want to build and run the glide that I picked up, I know the C6 would work but there are others doing it with a glide! I think I have my gear combinations figured out but one day it's a chain drive and then the next it's a t-case so I don't know-gonna need some opinions here.
Dana 44 front, 9 inch rear
Stock axle location in the front and ladder bar/coilovers in the rear. I will be building the housing floater and spring slider too.
I do have Dave Morgans "The Chassis Book" with has been a huge eye opener but still, some of it is greek to me!
Enough babble here is some pictures, I look forward to some good conversation and constructive criticism.

500 Pro Stock
Up to 40” DOT legal tires, or up to 36” cut/modified tires
-Minimal gutting permitted, must have full doors, minimum functional flatbed, body must appear factory
-Electronic fuel injection allowed, single carb/throttle body only
-No vacuum required
-Must run on gas, propane, diesel, no nitrous or alcohol
500 class continued…
-No forced induction unless factory equipped (must be factory turbo for year/make/model)
-Must retain factory frame and axle location
- Stock style suspension for year/make/model, lifts are OK

700 Pro Stock
-Up to 44” DOT legal tires, or up to 40” cut/modified tires
-4 link suspension allowed
-Must run on gas, diesel, propane, no nitrous, alcohol etc
-Single carb/throttle body, electronic injection allowed
-No forced induction unless factory equipped (must be stock equipment for year/make/model)
-Gutting permitted, must have doors or arm restraints
-Must retain factory frame and axle location

1000 Outlaw
-Any DOT legal tire over 44”, any cut/modified tire up to 44”, all agriculture tires and paddles
-4 link suspension allowed

Derrick.
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post #2 of 57 (permalink) Old 06-08-2014, 01:33 PM Thread Starter
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buil pics

what a gem!donor.jpg
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post #3 of 57 (permalink) Old 06-08-2014, 01:35 PM Thread Starter
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build cont.

block and pistonblock1.jpg

block2.jpg

piston.JPG
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post #4 of 57 (permalink) Old 06-08-2014, 01:36 PM Thread Starter
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build cont.

headshead2.jpg

head1.jpg
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post #5 of 57 (permalink) Old 06-08-2014, 01:37 PM Thread Starter
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build cont.

body to be used except in shortbox trimbody.jpg
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post #6 of 57 (permalink) Old 06-08-2014, 02:09 PM Thread Starter
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build cont.

Like a lot of people on here right now I'm crunching different gear,rpm combos,MPH vs final drive. I'm working with the glide and just guessing at a 7000rpm max.
39.5" uncut boggers on rear and 38.5"front
5.00:1 rear gear with a np205(divorced), 1.76 first gear=17.25:1 final ratio to come off the line with(47mph top speed), in high gear(1:1)(1.96)=9.8:1 final drive(84mph top speed)
What do you guys think of this, is it fast enough? My other combo looks like this but I dont think it gives me enough off the line.
7.00:1 rear gear with no tcase just chain drive(1.76)(1:1)=12.32:1 in first gear(66mph top speed), in high gear(1:1)(1:1)=7:1 final ratio(117mph top speed.
I dont think I have the power to do it with out a power adder but maybe someone with a similar build will chime in, weight of the unit not sure.3200-3400lbs sound about right? after gutting and with a cage?

Last edited by raging85; 06-08-2014 at 02:11 PM. Reason: rpm was wrong
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post #7 of 57 (permalink) Old 06-08-2014, 02:38 PM
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Personally, I'd go cut tires and jump to the prostock class, reducing the tire weight and rotating mass pluss adding hook of the line will help. I may consider selling my rear cut 39s if these paddles work out ok. The final drive of 9.8:1 looks alittle better then the 7:1, 10-12:1 is ideal. 5.13 rear would put you right in that sweet spot. With a trans brake and suspension setup well, you should be easily in the low 4s.
As for weight, I havent weighed mine yet, its still heavy but its as good as I can get without spending a pile of money again.

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post #8 of 57 (permalink) Old 06-08-2014, 02:38 PM
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Could also run a 208 tcase gutted in low range, see where that puts ya for final ratio, light weight and affordable

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post #9 of 57 (permalink) Old 06-08-2014, 03:39 PM Thread Starter
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I would definetaley like to be on the list of potential buyers for your cuts!

I have a ford 208 but it doesn't fit between the frame rails. Are the fords as good as the chevs? It would simplify things a bit if I got an adapter from advance but I think I should try to keep as much weight off the glide as possible. I will look into the gearing and see where it takes me.

What kind of times were you running with the 532 last year?

thanks for the extra home work!
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post #10 of 57 (permalink) Old 06-09-2014, 09:35 PM
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If I remember right, the chev 208 is shorter so it'll fit between the rails easier and can be run upside down for the ford??

My best time was a 4.00 with the 532

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post #11 of 57 (permalink) Old 06-09-2014, 09:36 PM
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I did a 3.41 on dirt with paddle tires once before as well

When in doubt, hold'er to the floor.......I'm usually in doubt.
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post #12 of 57 (permalink) Old 06-10-2014, 08:52 AM Thread Starter
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What is out there for master cylinders? I'm pretty sure there won't be enough vacuum to run a stock master. I want to do a rear disc conversion but what are you guys using for a master and did you get rid of the proportioning valve and go with some sort of adjustable unit?



Derrick.
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post #13 of 57 (permalink) Old 06-10-2014, 10:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raging85 View Post
Hey guys, its been a long time coming but things are finally starting to roll! It still won't be ready for this season but I should be ready to roll next year.

Engine is a 547ci bbf, old motorsport Aheads with 2.30 intake, ford racing 4 bolt main block. The builder says 900hp+. I dont have cam specs yet as it is still to be ground with a different firing order. Frame and axles come from a '79 F150 and hopefully my old '85 ford body will be made to fit with a shortbox. I do have access to a ranger body but not sure I will go there becasue of the class bump. I will do as much gutting as possible but I need to stay in my class. I'm hoping for the 500 super stock or the 700 pro stock(see what the association says). I will also attach those rules.

I really want to build and run the glide that I picked up, I know the C6 would work but there are others doing it with a glide! I think I have my gear combinations figured out but one day it's a chain drive and then the next it's a t-case so I don't know-gonna need some opinions here.

Dana 44 front, 9 inch rear

Hey Derrick, sounds like it's going to be a nice light truck when your done!

Is someone in Canada doing your build?

IMO if your going swb and gutted I would opt to get cuts.with your weight and hp it'll make a world of a difference.also could throw on a 300 hp shot and can lend ya my paddle tires since they will be 5 bolt as well! Lol





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post #14 of 57 (permalink) Old 06-10-2014, 10:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mud Freak View Post
I did a 3.41 on dirt with paddle tires once before as well

Was the 3.41 run with the smaller paddles? What's your guess on time in the mud this year,low-mid 3's?

Hey Myron ,I think I may be mistaken but I thought I seen somewhere in your rules before body/engine swaps are ok and don't get bumped if you keep a ford engine in a ford body? Ie,v8 into a ranger or ranger onto full size frame?




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post #15 of 57 (permalink) Old 06-10-2014, 04:33 PM
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I run a wilwood master cylinder manual brake setup, works fine. I use one of them porportioning valves you can dial in.

Clint - you can use any motor that it may have come from the factory with in the stock and mod stock classes. V8 ranger has to bump up to at least super stock

When in doubt, hold'er to the floor.......I'm usually in doubt.
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