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RHP built EFI 504 - 1997 F350

18K views 20 replies 10 participants last post by  res0rli9 
#1 ·
After 3 years of thinking about it and wanting to do it, I made the decision to let Scott Johnston build me an engine.

I can tell you this: Scott is awesome to deal with! He took well over an hour to discuss details on the first call, and answered the 5,492 emails and texts I had about the whole build. Never once did he fail to be professional and prompt in responding. Scott is a class act who knows what he is doing.

Here are the build details:

9.2 to 1 504" BBF
Scat 9000 4.150" crank
Scat 6.8" H beam rods
Icon 857 28cc step dish pistons
Engine pro performance damper with timing marks to 40 degrees
hastings 1/16" 1/16" / 3/16" performance moly ring package
Clevite P series bearings
Dura bond FP 30 cam bearings
Melling M84D oil pump and new melling rear sump pick up
Melling brass plug kit

219/227 / 114 +4 custom ground cam for SD EFI DCR is 8 to 1.
Johnson Hylift notched lifters
Engine pro billet double roller 9 key timing set with torrington thrust bearing on cam gear.
Cam properly degreed in.

Ported F2 EFI intake

RHP New F3 EFI cylinder heads with Comp springs
Custom length smith brothers pushrod. 5/16" chrome moly .080" wall.

Felpro EFI gasket set which includes the high performance 1018 head gaskets and one piece oil pan gasket.

All engine accessory bolts except head bolts are stainless

Block thermally cleaned and steel shot peened.
Bored to size, deck plate plateau honed, 0 decked. Pistons .005" out.

Oil passage mods from pump flange to oil filter.

Dyno will come week after Christmas, but Scott is projecting 420 HP and 570 TQ. Dyno will be carb, but the combo will be Speed Density EFI in the truck.


My truck is a 1997 on 47 inch Goodyear MVT radial military tires. 5.13 gears, ZF5 tranny, custom HD driveshafts, disc brakes in rear, hydraulic assist steering, the list goes on. While the stock 460 was adequate, I wanted a LOT more power than the factory powerplant.


Here is the ******* way to remove an engine.....


Cleaned up short block coming together.


Crank installed


Cam degreed in properly


I went with a black wrinkle paint on the oil pan and valve covers just to do something a little different.


How it looks on red block


BRAND NEW heads (since old ones had header bolts broken off and cracked ears). Comp springs and ported for higher flow by Scott.


Ferrea valves


Heads on, everything coming together.
 
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#3 ·
Note:

Regular to 89 octane engine.






S
 
#6 ·
Nice, I've lifted a few out of junkers w/my L2850 Kabota. If you weld you a Hook on top of your bucket you can add a little more lift,plus it makes lifting other things handier. Nothing wrong w/******* ways,hell if it wasn't for my ******* ingenuity,i would be lost.:D
 
#7 · (Edited)
Scott had truck on dyno today and it pulled 411 HP / 565 TQ. This was with a pair of BBC headers (you can see the custom adapter plates) and with a card adapter that was a little too small and pulling 2 inches of vacuum.

After doing his figuring, he thinks the engine is actually a 425-430 HP / 570-575 TQ combo. Hey Jack, either way I am a happy camper.

The peak HP was almost flat between 4200-4800 RPM, and the TQ peaked at 3200.

Needless to say, lots of power down low to launch and plenty of power to go fast. This engine should be a dynamite combo in my truck. Will ship out in a week or so (meaning I won't be able to sleep a wink in anticipation).



 
#8 · (Edited)
Dyno sheets with weather conditions and correction factor

The price motorsports carb adapter had 1 5/8" bores for a 600 holley.
I was not aware when I ordered that they come in 1 11/16" and 1 3/4" as well.

The engine was pulling near 2" of vacuum at WOT peak power and using only 602 cfm. I feel that with larger throttle holes the peak HP would have increased 10 to 18 HP.

87 octane regular fuel was used for all tests.


The BBC headers were largish at 2 1/8"

A GREAT BIG THANK YOU to Charlie Evans for his help in getting a rough adapter for the exhaust made. I hand shaped each port. The finished adapter will go back to Charlie to be digitized and made available for sale.

This makes testing our EFI crate engines much easier as our program ramps up.


NOTE* Relative humidity was 100%


S
 

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#10 ·
#11 ·
SPent half a day yesterday with motor. Got it in the truck, the ZF is bolted up and ready, got the upper plenum and water neck on along with a few sensors and the remote oil adapter. Then dark came.

Engine is at TDC on compression, hopefully can get it all wired and fired this coming weekend.
 
#12 ·
I got everything hooked up on the engine during the week, and had a buddy help me with the timing light. It fired after about 5 seconds of cranking. We set base timing (spout out) at 12 BTDC. It didn't sputter and shake and all that like I thought it would. Plugged the spout back in after shutting it down, and it went to 22 at idle and advanced just like it should. Sat there idling about 15 minutes or so to let the computer get used to it, revved it with no pinging or anything. Checked everything for leaks, found none. Set fuel pressure at ~41-42 pounds.

Took it for about a 30 minute initial drive. Since I put in a new South Bend clutch, I wasn't very hard on it (that will come soon). But at 1/2 and 3/4 throttle all I can say is WOW! There is zero doubt this engine is serious. It ran smooth, idles fine, no hesitation, just loads more power.

The only thing negative is that when I was pulling into my driveway my battery light came on and then I lost power steering. I threw both belts and destroyed them, but at least not while driving it down the road. I think I should have retightened my alternator belt after initial idle (it probably stretched a little).

This whole combo so far on the initial run seems to work just fine with the EFI and computer, and I am hoping a little more driving and it will learn the motor.

I can't tell you how much better this engine performs than stock! Scott did a fantastic job and it runs just like we talked about when I contacted him to build it.

I can't wait to get some more belts and take it back out.
 
#15 ·
That is the ICON step quench designed for use with std valve location heads.

It offers the ability to get a large dish and still keep quench pad size appropriate.


S
 
#16 ·
Possible that the actual peak might have been at 3100. The dyno could not pull it any lower. Given the spread between torque peak and hp peak I would not expect the TQ peak to be much lower.



S
 
#18 ·
This combo would blow away the factory EFI engine at 2,200 rpm.

I have no way to know by exactly how much as the dyno WILL NOT pull it that low. Suffice to say that it would be no less than 100 lb ft.



S
 
#19 ·
Well, after 8 months of waiting for IST to get me all the parts I ordered, turns out it doesn't work worth a darn. I ordered it 2/24, didnt get the computer until beginning of June. Got the air filter from them about 2 weeks later. THen didnt get the TPS monitor until beginning of October. Kept getting promised oh its about to ship. I tried everything they recommended to get it running, and eventually they stopped answering the phone or emails. I would NEVER recommend them to anyone. So I boxed up their stuff and sent it back Saturday.

So I am going to go the carb route so I know it will run. SHould have carb, Duraspark, and adapter plate end of this month.

WIll post results when I get it all installed.
 
#20 ·
EFI

I know I am a little late in commenting but I have almost the same motor except it is still 460 ci running a fully tunable maf sequential injection set-up if you needed help in designing a efi setup to run that engine using mostly factory ford parts. If you did change your mind feel free to pm me.
 
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