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1966 Fairlane With 502

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Installed a ATK 502 525 HP engine in the Fairlane. Had some over heating problems at 1st......fixed that with 2 elec fans and water pump fan.......... Now seems not to be producing 525 HP. Should be a screamer but not living up to ATKs HP claim ?

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Here's mine. It was tested right before they shipped it. It's now been sitting for a year+ LOL. Got too overwhelmed with other things.

Should finally be installed and running in the next month.



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Your dyno sheet looks like the one on the ATK sight. Im anxious to know how it goes for you. Where are you located?
Your dyno sheet looks like the one on the ATK sight. Im anxious to know how it goes for you. Where are you located?
Yea, it is dated right before it was shipped and the engine smells strongly of gas when I unpacked it. So, I assume the test was genuine. I'm finishing the front suspension this week. Next week will be brakes. If I'm lucky, I can drop the engine/trans in next weekend. Will probably be another 2-3 weeks after that (at least) before I can run/drive it.
I'm in St. Louis.
We reset the initial to 30* I do not know what the total advance is Its Ignition system is MSD.
Runs about the same. Getting some dieseling or run on when shut down.
Whoa! :oops: Initial (base idle) timing is 30°? That's dangerous, as it will add unknown timing as it revs.

As you do not know the centrifugal advance in your distributor, you can set timing by total (all-in) advance at high-rpm. Disconnect and plug the carb-side of your vacuum advance (if you have it). While watching the timing with the timing light, rev the engine until the timing advance stops adding timing. Note the degrees. Adjust the distributor position until the total timing (all-in) when revving to all-in is 34°.

If it were me, I would confirm exact timing mark location with a $10 spark plug thread timing stop (or make your own). Then if you do not have a dial-back timing light; add measured marks every 5° to 40°, before setting timing as-above. 34° is only a place to begin timing tuning, but should be much closer than guessing, and certainly safer than what it is.

[EDIT] Dynamometers are test devices, and may be calibrated or corrected to read anything you like. Do not regard dyno sheets as proof of anything. They are meant to collect relative measurements for tuning under stable and adjusted conditions, with proper calibrations, corrections and operation.
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Whoa! :oops: Initial (base idle) timing is 30°? That's dangerous, as it will add unknown timing as it revs.

As you do not know the centrifugal advance in your distributor, you can set timing by total (all-in) advance at high-rpm. Disconnect and plug the carb-side of your vacuum advance (if you have it). While watching the timing with the timing light, rev the engine until the timing advance stops adding timing. Note the degrees. Adjust the distributor position until the total timing (all-in) when revving to all-in is 34°.

If it were me, I would confirm exact timing mark location with a $10 spark plug thread timing stop (or make your own). Then if you do not have a dial-back timing light; add measured marks every 5° to 40°, before setting timing as-above. 34° is only a place to begin timing tuning, but should be much closer than guessing, and certainly safer than what it is.
ATK recommends 30 to 34 initial timing.
"Initial"? Is it a locked distributor?
As PSIG stated, unless it's a locked distributor, which I don't see why it would be, there should never be 30-34 initial. That would be common for total. The sheet Tommy222 posted says Timing: 34-36 degrees. I can guarantee that's the total without vacuum advance hooked up. Most distributors have around 20 degrees of advance built in, you won't know unless you check. If it has the common 20 degrees of advance and you're setting it at 30-34 initial, you're going to have 50-54 degrees total, and those hypereutectic pistons they put in those engines aren't long for this world....
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Yep. Back your initial timing to 14 btdc... then check total advance with a dial back timing light at high rpm... ~4000rpm.

If you are running 20 at idle, plus 20 centrifugal, total timing would be 40 degrees and, besides possible engine damage, it would feel like an underpowered dog.

If you don't know how to set timing, find someone local that can help you.
The engine has been tuned by a very good shop. I need to get the car back over there and do more tuning.
IMHO, you need to do the basics first:

1. Getting a timing light and verify your timing.
2. Do a compression test to check cranking compression.
3. Do a leak down test.
4. Check the carb to verify it can go to WOT.
5. Check spark plug condition and gaps.
6. Check fuel flow and pressure.
There are too many variables without checking the above first.

Dave
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Installed a ATK 502 525 HP engine in the Fairlane. Had some over heating problems at 1st......fixed that with 2 elec fans and water pump fan.......... Now seems not to be producing 525 HP. Should be a screamer but not living up to ATKs HP claim ?
Their claim may be based on a particular intake, carburetor, and header combination. You might also consider installing a high volume water pump and high volume 180 thermostat. You won't make 525hp with stock exhaust manifolds and pipes.
Installed a ATK 502 525 HP engine in the Fairlane. Had some over heating problems at 1st......fixed that with 2 elec fans and water pump fan.......... Now seems not to be producing 525 HP. Should be a screamer but not living up to ATKs HP claim ?
You may be running lean which would make it run hot. Get some O2 sensor bungs welded onto the collectors and get a dual wide band AFR meter and make sure it's around 13-14 for best power. Good power begins with air and fuel in sufficient amounts and in the right ratio.
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