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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello ladies and gents,

I'm gonna document my build here with y'all if you don't mind. I bought my old truck from a fella in Oregon through eBay motors. It had 390/c6/Dana 60 drive train, an f250 btw. I scored a pretty good deal on it and planned to drive it a longer time before starting this build but a few beers, and showing my boys how to do donuts in my pasture kinda stressed the old girls original 390. It still ran but some lifters collapsed I'm guessing so good time to get to it. I've been working on it for about 1 1/2 months now and have pictures in photo bucket but don't know how to get them here. I've done it before but can't remember, I'll get on that soon.

I chose this model one, because it was my first pickup truck model I inherited at 14. Second, I love trucks, third, I like duallys and figured I could build some sweet lines with the fenders, we will see.

Here is the build list

Engine
-rpm cast crank,scat rods,icon pistons 29cc dish- 545ci, block bored .40 over....10:1 cr
-AFR 280 heads 75cc
-bullet cams hydraulic roller .236/.238, .610 lift on both, 110 lobe separation
-bullet cams roller lifters
-lunatic roller rockers
-stealth intake
-cvfracing serpintine conversion
-Fitech 800hp meanstreet efi with fuel command center
-l&l ultra flow headers, shorts because of lowered ride height and the steering stabilizer. Thank god they let me exchange. I should have done a build my own set but then again time constraints and a small loss in power is not worth it imo. Still have to modify the drivers side header as it looks like the designed it to cross under tranny to pass side because of manual shift linkage. I'll be using a cable so I'm gonna redirect the headers flange. Will document it.


And all the other little good parts to finish it up. Engine is at builders now. I wanted to let an experienced builder handle this rather than my back yard abilities. Proper clearances, square decking, all that that I don't have time to learn, so will delegate that.

Truck
-4-link rear suspension
-front and rear sway bars(used front sway bar kit to retro fit in rear)
-quad QA1 coilover shock setup 130lbs. springs
-ford sterling 10.25 axle
-ratchet locker
-Lugnut off-road rear disc brake conversion
-4"aluminum drive shaft, 1350 joints, hardened tranny slip yoke, stock pinion yoke(fingers crossed)
-mustang 22gallon fuel tank conversion, cab tank removed
-3" drop split I-beams
-front disc brake conversion, from 78f250 light duty setup(wished it was hd setup)
-used dodge front dually adapters to convert to dually rims
-steering stabilizer kit
-classic auto air a/c perfect fit kit
-Tmi seats I'm thinking with dash pad and door panels. Believe I'll build the center console.
-as of this date, I'm in the middle of building the rear dually fenders. Using 18 and 20 ga. Sheet metal.(I'm projecting 10 days for these, its day 8)
-fuel cleaver black machined dually wheels. These are 4.5" wider than stock rear offsets, 2" in front(fender flares in order up front I think), 285/55r20 tires(31" tall) that makes 44" of rubber on the ground in the rear!
-Dakota digital gauges
-silver will be the color
-rear roll pan, thinking about front roll pan but can't find any pics to see how it looks on these fords, must not be good, haha.

There is more I'm missing I'm sure that I'm forgetting.

Tranny
-E4od 1995 model
-monster transmissions super monster kit, lol.(can't remember the name but it's the baddest kit available) includes solenoids, everything.
-circle d racing 2500 stall converter, billet, blah blah...the works is all I know.
-baumann electronics tranny controller

Have yet to overhaul it yet as it's in frame along with a spare block I've been using for mockup. I've been researching a lot to familiarize myself with the internals, procedures, tips etc. so when I get it on the bench I'll be on point.

That's the overview of the build and I'll get on getting pictures lined out.

Fordman
 

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What hp & tq figures did bullet cams suggest and at what rpm?

Whats the comp?

What intake?

Cheers, Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)




My mockup block andtranny. Lucky to have it seeing how builder has had my othe block forever.


Tranny cross member I fabbed up.






Got this disc brake conversion from lugnut offroad. I had to machine the bore of the rotor to go on the sterling hub. Sterling axle is beastly but an oddball kinda in the aftermarket world as my wheels later proved also.




I added the gussets to the brackets. I felt it couldn't hurt,prolly not necessary but it did stiffen it up.


Here I took a hiatus for a minute from truck and built my oil pan. Thought builder was gonna need it sooner.
 

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Discussion Starter #6









Hope this locker works for me, I took this approach when I was being budget minded, might shoulda got a different posi or limited slip


 

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Discussion Starter #7
Four link installed


I missed and lost some pics of chassis work, here is a big jump to my rear shock tower and quad coil layout


Had lay shocks back a little to clear the sway bar, couldn't move the bar forward for the bed cross member



All painted up. Wire wheeled, ospho'ed, and painted with por15.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Mustang tank installed, a pita, but worth it.



Fuel door I made using an old hinge from a dodge bed, worked out pretty good.



Fuel command center return vent line nipple added to filler neck
 

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Tim said I'd be at 1.3 hp per cube (about 710hp)and torque would be better. About 5800-6000 peak. 10:1 compression with the stealth intake.
Man i cant wait to see how much it really makes with that hydraulic roller!

I was quoted 730hp with 545, p-51, 11.2 comp, torker ll intake.....and a street SOLID ROLLER CAM with .720 lift.

Maybe its time to buy some AFR heads.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Here I'm started on the dually fenders. They are turning out ok, but I'm on the fence as to just how much I like them. The wheels I used are a lot wider stance so the fenders stick out far and the rear sweep doesn't look right in the photos but in person doesn't look as bad. Just gotta finish, fill and paint to get the picture I guess. If I hate it, I'll make a sleek flat bed for it.







 

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Discussion Starter #11
Rear view, can see how wide she is, fat bottom girls need love too! Everything is looking symmetrical here, tough to do, lots of back and forth, check and recheck. Had to cut something apart once.


Here I'm bringing the trim around the fender. Little tricky, very time consuming.






The drivers side is done now, pics are on phone, need to upload to bucket.

Fordman
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Man i cant wait to see how much it really makes with that hydraulic roller!

I was quoted 730hp with 545, p-51, 11.2 comp, torker ll intake.....and a street SOLID ROLLER CAM with .720 lift.

Maybe its time to buy some AFR heads.
Truthfully, my instinct says the numbers are inflated a bit. If I pull 625hp out of it I'll be happy as hell. Your number sounds more realistic than mine by far. I do love hearing that number though, makes me feel macho, haha. Just breaking 700 sounds badass, haha. I'll maintain the hp quote to peeps around me that don't know, maybe I'll get it dynoed to see exactly what it is making.

Tim at bullet was adamant about the afr heads being superior to all and is why my old cam choice was doing as well as mentioned hence his quote for this package now. Excited to say the least.
 

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Nice work, Looking at the pics of your oil pan, if you leave the pick-up where it is you might have some issues. The pick up should be 3/8" off the bottom of the pan. In the pics it looks like it's an 1" off the bottom!!!! Just a heads up.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Heck of a job there young man! Keep the pics comin!
Thank you

Nice work, Looking at the pics of your oil pan, if you leave the pick-up where it is you might have some issues. The pick up should be 3/8" off the bottom of the pan. In the pics it looks like it's an 1" off the bottom!!!! Just a heads up.
You know, I was wondering about that.i asked my engine guy and he said I needed to be pretty close, told him it was about an inch off bottom and he didn't seem to be concerned. I will trim it by 1". That will put the pickup right at stock local. Thanks for the heads up.

For my knowledge base, does the 1"+ off bottom cause it to lose prime, or is it that the oil sloshes away from pickup?
 

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Thank you



You know, I was wondering about that.i asked my engine guy and he said I needed to be pretty close, told him it was about an inch off bottom and he didn't seem to be concerned. I will trim it by 1". That will put the pickup right at stock local. Thanks for the heads up.

For my knowledge base, does the 1"+ off bottom cause it to lose prime, or is it that the oil sloshes away from pickup?
I know if the pick up sucks air that could be bad because you will lose oil pressure in the engine. Even for a few seconds that could be a bad thing. Usually they put a ball of clay on the pick up and then install the pan, then take it off an measure the thickness of the clay. I was always told 3/8" was the max it should be off the bottom of the pan. Now you might say no big deal but going up a steep hill could uncover the pick up either fully or partly which could be really bad plus I believe that it could aerate the oil which again isn't good. I'd e-mail Lem at B.F. Evan's and and verify it with him he get pans custom made and would know more about it than me. One last thing make sure you test the pan to hold water after all that welding no matter how good it looks it still could leak, better to find out now before it goes on the finished engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Thanks for all the info. I leak tested it with solvent but will have to do it again now. I'm just gonna heed your warning and take out an inch from bottom, that will put it right close, I'll gauge it. It will still be 8 quart pan. Won't take but a minute.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
I don’t have pics loaded. I’ve went a long way on this build. The cab turned out being a nightmare of a rust bucket. About done with that now. After all the fixing I Had to pull the roof skin....can’t find a repop of it so I’ll have to fab the complete 1 1/2” band around the front and sides, the back belt is salvageable, thank the good lord.

Engine is all there in my little climate controlled “engine shop”. Yet to be assembled...waiting until I get cab work finished then I’ll drop back assemble the engine and install it first then the cab. Lot easier that way. My E4od is rebuilt and ready for install, ordered a billet input shaft for it. Thankfully my cousin knows a thing or two and advised me that if I’m making 750 lbs. torque @ 3800 rpm then I’d be wise to do so.

Bed is done, one side mostly rough muddled in, decided to finish truck, get in epoxy primer then do body work as a complete truck. This way I’ll get to drive it before I’m an old man....

The worst part ahead is I’m gonna have to flare the front fenders 2-3” for the wider front wheels and build a hood scoop to....should be down hill from there.

I’ll work on getting pics uploaded.

Question, on the hood scoop, should I make it functional. It will be the rear facing type, not ram type. It would help with cooling I imagine at speed, but will it fog my window, anything like that. Prolly not a smart question, but I don’t want anything negative about the cruising experience afte4 all this work. Thanks
 
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