Posting this here as well, for record of the build. The sniper is a nice piece of kit, I was curious to see if it fit under a drop base air cleaner due to its shape compared to a carb, I had an old one laying around and their are no clearance issues I can see, I aslo like that it has throttle return springs built onto it, makes for a cleaner install though all the wires make for some planning how to run them cleanly/neatly....very much looking forward to running this car when done.
As the subject says the heads arrived this morning, with the exception of pushrods and gaskets I believe I have all the parts for the engine build. The AFR heads are a thing of beauty to me, I've been wanting to build an engine and a car like this for a long time....spring can't come soon enough....:frown: In actuality, I suspect that the car won't be done till fall maybe late summer, time will tell....
Finished parting out the 69 and hauled the carcass to the bone yard, Picked up a D9TE AB complete engine for dirt so decided to take a chance on the block being good. It had sat under a tree for a year exposed to the elements. Tore it down and the block is in really good condition inside, stock bore. Came out of a truck, carb engine so has the D3 carb heads which I'm going to sell along with the truck rods with the football head rod bolts. The rest of it I tossed. I was going to use the 69 engine but since I found this it'll be a bit better for the 545.
Now that the 69 is gone I put the 71 in for surgery, ordering headers from FPA and have all parts for the engine build with the exception of pushrods, I'll get those once I figure out length. Be callin Scotty for those. I'm going with Holley EFI, XFlow and also decided to get the Sniper hyperspark complete system so all is plug and play, and, with the hall effect distributor less chance of RFI. Sent Broader torque converter build sheet and having him make one up for me.
Called machine shop and will be sending the block off for him to do his thing. While the engine is out will be rebuilding the front steering, putting in a trans cooler in front of the radiator, and a new four row aluminum rad. Should keep me busy for the next couple months.
Making some progress, getting ready to pull the engine. and completely rebuilding the front steering and suspension. New Eaton lowering springs as well, going to lower the rear an inch and the front 1-1/2 inches. I found a place that sells larger sway bars, going to do them as well. Otherwise leaving the suspension basically stock to keep the ride quality.
Headers came in, FPA. Stan makes a nice set of headers, good to deal with as well. I went with the ice grey as I'm not a fan of the bright shiny version, this car is going to be a driver not a show car. The shiny ones show staining and begin to look bad after awhile. Coming along.
Spent the weekend working on the rear suspension, replaced all the bushings in the upper and lower control arms. Picked up the new 9" third member, Detroit Truetrac 3.25 and Yukon nodular housing. Painted it with some engine paint I had laying around the shop. Installed it and the axles. Had to get a new axle for the passenger side due to the originals length being to short. The original third member is a 9-3/8". New brake hoses and brakes all around.
I pulled the original fuel tank, completely rusted inside with a whole bunch of flakes sloshing around on the bottom, no surprise there. The new tank is ready to go in, putting in all new 6AN fuel lines and return for the Holley EFI.
New torque converter from Broader came in, will be putting that in when the new engine goes in. I dropped the block off at the machine shop, should be done end of this week. Getting there. Hundred little details come up as I go, isn't that the way of it....
Spent the morning pulling the old motor, the new block will be ready this Monday. I have some cleaning to do while I have the room. I can get the trans cooler in as well as mock up new fuel system and lines. I'm moving the battery to the trunk. I found a place that makes all the rubber pieces that help keep water out of the engine bay, will be installing them after some paint work.
The block is back from the machine shop, .30 over, line bored, square decked or as he put it parallel decked to 10.31", new wide cam bearings. Did some paint work on it, got the main bearings in and checked clearances, all good at .003" with the exception of the center bearing which came in @ .250" or so, will be checking the crankshaft end play in the morning. The cam bearings are tight, so the cam journals are being polished down a smidge and I'll be getting that back Monday.
Rings and pistons going in tomorrow, followed by degreeing the cam Monday afternoon, then finally the heads. Been waiting for this for a long time, goal is to have the car together and running by mid/end of September. So looking forward to the initial shakedown runs and driving the car, excited.
I bought a Fitech Force fuel system due to my gas tank configuration and not being able to fit the in tank systems made by Holley or Aeromotive. In reading some of the posts on the Fitech fakebook page many suggested opening the unit and checking their work due to many people experiencing loose clamps on the fuel hose, loose wire connections and others having the short fuel hose connecting the pump to the unit bursting and causing no joy.
I was really careful removing the Fitech pump from the support it is attached to and the nipple, the pump nipple pulled out of the pump making it useless. the pump is cheaply made at the top and I would not recommend using it. I replaced it with an Aeromotive pump and used US made submersible fuel line to connect it to the unit. I also removed the fuel pressure regulator and plugged the hole so I can use an external pressure regulator. I think these surge tank systems are a really good idea for certain applications like mine....not impressed with some of Fitech's details or parts. Anyway it is now more an Aeromotive system.
Did some mocking up while waiting for parts, decided to use a Kaase oil pump, overkill most likely for my situation, and, with the money I have in this decided to err on the side of caution, I wanted no chance of oil pump breaking off or pressure issues. This one I have to send back as the oil pan is a front sump but the pickup tube that Canton makes for this pan is configured as a rear sump at the pump. Push rods are on the way then I can close it up.