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Discussion Starter #1
From what I can find history wise I'm 100% bone stock with dual (glasspacks)exhaust. Engine was replaced in 05. No clue on how many actually miles are on it. Looking to just get it running as solid as possible without pulling the heads or porting anything (yet). I'm ok budget wise for carb, intake cam for now and just a solid tune up. I still have the Ford carb on it, like I said its bone stock. I keep reading about the streight up timing gear. Do the little top end kits compensate or figure this in already? Dont want to over carb or cam but just want it running solid. All help is appreciated. I will continue scrolling through the archices.
 

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From what I can find history wise I'm 100% bone stock with dual (glasspacks)exhaust. Engine was replaced in 05. No clue on how many actually miles are on it. Looking to just get it running as solid as possible without pulling the heads or porting anything (yet). I'm ok budget wise for carb, intake cam for now and just a solid tune up. I still have the Ford carb on it, like I said its bone stock. I keep reading about the streight up timing gear. Do the little top end kits compensate or figure this in already? Dont want to over carb or cam but just want it running solid. All help is appreciated. I will continue scrolling through the archices.
Until you are ready to address the heads via pocket work and topping valve guides / changing springs the best bang for the $$$ and time spent are as follows:


Straight up cam timing. Double roller with crank gear's keyway, tooth and dot at noon. Lose oil slinger with a double roller set.
Properly curved distributor
Headers and dual exhaust with an H or X
A performer intake with cross over restricted or blocked (depending on climate)

OEM carb is OK. 3310 holley 750 is a tic better for future upgrades.

ANY after market cam shelf or custom starts at early straight up cam timing.


The above will get you about 300 hp vs the anemic OEM output.



SJ
used 2b RHP


:D
 

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Discussion Starter #3
From what I can find history wise I'm 100% bone stock with dual (glasspacks)exhaust. Engine was replaced in 05. No clue on how many actually miles are on it. Looking to just get it running as solid as possible without pulling the heads or porting anything (yet). I'm ok budget wise for carb, intake cam for now and just a solid tune up. I still have the Ford carb on it, like I said its bone stock. I keep reading about the streight up timing gear. Do the little top end kits compensate or figure this in already? Dont want to over carb or cam but just want it running solid. All help is appreciated. I will continue scrolling through the archices.
Until you are ready to address the heads via pocket work and topping valve guides / changing springs the best bang for the $$$ and time spent are as follows:


Straight up cam timing. Double roller with crank gear's keyway, tooth and dot at noon. Lose oil slinger with a double roller set.
Properly curved distributor
Headers and dual exhaust with an H or X
A performer intake with cross over restricted or blocked (depending on climate)

OEM carb is OK. 3310 holley 750 is a tic better for future upgrades.

ANY after market cam shelf or custom starts at early straight up cam timing.


The above will get you about 300 hp vs the anemic OEM output.



SJ
used 2b RHP


<img src="http://460ford.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Very Happy" class="inlineimg" />
You are awesome!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
From what I can find history wise I'm 100% bone stock with dual (glasspacks)exhaust. Engine was replaced in 05. No clue on how many actually miles are on it. Looking to just get it running as solid as possible without pulling the heads or porting anything (yet). I'm ok budget wise for carb, intake cam for now and just a solid tune up. I still have the Ford carb on it, like I said its bone stock. I keep reading about the streight up timing gear. Do the little top end kits compensate or figure this in already? Dont want to over carb or cam but just want it running solid. All help is appreciated. I will continue scrolling through the archices.
Until you are ready to address the heads via pocket work and topping valve guides / changing springs the best bang for the $$$ and time spent are as follows:


Straight up cam timing. Double roller with crank gear's keyway, tooth and dot at noon. Lose oil slinger with a double roller set.
Properly curved distributor
Headers and dual exhaust with an H or X
A performer intake with cross over restricted or blocked (depending on climate)

OEM carb is OK. 3310 holley 750 is a tic better for future upgrades.

ANY after market cam shelf or custom starts at early straight up cam timing.


The above will get you about 300 hp vs the anemic OEM output.



SJ
used 2b RHP


<img src="http://460ford.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Very Happy" class="inlineimg" />
If I were to just buy the Edelbrock 2045 top end kit or something very similar and bolt it on to the bone stock bottom is it too much ? I'm am only entertaining this for simplicity purposes. I thought maybe it would be sufficient until I am ready to build the bottom down the road.
 

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If I were to just buy the Edelbrock 2045 top end kit or something very similar and bolt it on to the bone stock bottom is it too much ? I'm am only entertaining this for simplicity purposes. I thought maybe it would be sufficient until I am ready to build the bottom down the road.

With your oem pistons and deck height the static c/r would be about 9 to 1. Too low for the RPM kit.

Secondly the valve reliefs in the oem pistons are not large enough for the 2.2" intake valves.




You could build a 9 to 1 460 with a modest cam, budget ported heads and performer intake to make an honest 425 hp and 525 Tq...




SJ
used 2b RHP


:D
 

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Discussion Starter #6
If I were to just buy the Edelbrock 2045 top end kit or something very similar and bolt it on to the bone stock bottom is it too much ? I'm am only entertaining this for simplicity purposes. I thought maybe it would be sufficient until I am ready to build the bottom down the road.

With your oem pistons and deck height the static c/r would be about 9 to 1. Too low for the RPM kit.

Secondly the valve reliefs in the oem pistons are not large enough for the 2.2" intake valves.




You could build a 9 to 1 460 with a modest cam, budget ported heads and performer intake to make an honest 425 hp and 525 Tq...




SJ
used 2b RHP


<img src="http://460ford.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Very Happy" class="inlineimg" />
I wish you were in Texas
 

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