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1978 E350 7.5L Class C Motorhome
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all! 2nd post, long-time lurker. Here's the back story:
Bought a 1978 E350 Class C RV (camper special edition) with the 460 in it. I have replaced the intake and the Motorcraft carb with Edelbrock Performer Intake (2166) and Carburetor (1405). The EGR system had already been 'removed' - albeit using sticks, and game pieces lol - and is now full removed I believe. This leads me to the question of what to do with all these thermal vacuum trees; I plugged the one in the water neck. Is the one in the manifold itself necessary? There's another with the brake booster hose and 5 other fittings, 2 of which are capped. Should everything go to this one?

I am currently in the process of replacing the entirety of the fuel system. The gas tanks were lined with Kreem and it was peeling...it smelled absolutely terrible. I figure most of the system had been polluted with it, and is all fairly old. I have all for the tanks but the sending units. I bought one from Spectra (FG72A) and it doesn't appear to fit correctly as far as length. It is also the only listed correct part, so I'm sending my new ones in to be rebuilt while I make new hard lines.

The Radiator needs replacing, and I also would like to do the water pump, which means I may as well do the timing chain, yeah? I'm already in there... The Coolant appears to have been filled with a leak stop at some point, and there were a few spots with a strange Silicone-esque substance. This has me wanting to do the most of the system basically; That and some mild damage to the main fitting from water pump to intake. So I'm taking it as a chance to upgrade to the PRW water pump (1446000). Any reviews or thoughts on this?
As for the timing chain...i still have research to do here. But it seems like buying one that allows me to remove the timing retard put on from factory is a good thing. Any suggestions or tips on how to do this job well, from putting the new parts on to sealing it all up?

I have a few bad pictures of the engine I'll post? But nothing current...I should amend that. If anyone wants to see the before and current pics of the RV build, I posted them in the new members section!

Thanks in advance for any advice! Apologies if I left any crucial Info out.
 

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1978 E350 7.5L Class C Motorhome
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7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
92812
92813
92814

This one is the brake booster line mentioned previously with 5 vacuum fittings.
 

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1978 E350 7.5L Class C Motorhome
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7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Looking at timing chains from Summit. I've read to stay away from billet when using the factory thrust plate (which I'm fairly certain I am), so that narrowed it down. Is there any real quality difference between say the Edelbrock 7830 and the Comp Cams 2130?
I believe, being a 78, that I have a 2-piece fuel pump eccentric? Also, I've read that the oil slinger needs to be discarded. Does this affect oil distribution to the chain in any way?
 

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1978 E350 7.5L Class C Motorhome
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7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Also still curious if the water pump (PRW 1446000) is a worthy upgrade, or if I should find another.
 

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1978 E350 7.5L Class C Motorhome
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
As I do more research into fixing the timing, I'm seeing that it MAY be beneficial to advance the timing a little instead of returning it to 0°. Considering this is an RV that will be stock as far as internals go, I'm wondering if there really is any benefit to advancing, or of I would be better off to just go straight up? Still curious about the oil slinger and fuel pump eccentric as well.
 

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1978 E350 7.5L Class C Motorhome
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Figuring some things out with the fuel system. The whole system is being replaced - between the disguisting tanks and the degrading lines (hard and rubber), there wasnt much worth keeping. My questions pertain to the lines and the components between the carb and the tanks.

The diverter valve probably works just fine, but i would like a new one for backup. Problem is, they only make them in 5/16 inlets now, and my whole system is 3/8. I see several solutions to this...step the lines down to the diverter size, replace with a manual diverter of proper size, remove diverter entirely in favor of 2 shut-off valves, etc. What i would LIKE to do is keep an electric valve in 3/8 -OR- find a -6AN inlet valve ...anyone have a source for another i could buy?

The lines are ALL being replaced with Aeroquip AQP lines (either socketless or startlite...really depends on whether the socketless are ok for light clamping in spots such as the diverter and sending unit outlet). Any experience/cautions on these products?

Someone has already replaced the manual pump with an electric. This will remain as is i think.

The biggest issue Ive found is replacing the diverter valve; Even if it IS good, I would like a backup for when it eventually dies.

Thanks in advance for any input :)
 
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