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Discussion Starter #1
Hi! I am new member to 460ford.com and plan to be for a long time. Ive owned my originally carbed 302 5 speed mustang for quite some time and decided to make it my hobby. I though about redoing the motor, then like any gear head, that little thought pops in there "go big or go home". just so happens this swap is one of the easier ones so im gonna drop a 460 in her good and proper.

I'll admit, my car does need alot of work, all work I will be putting in. I'm doing this job right, and will be showing progress every step of the way. I have already put a good amount of time into this car but plan on backtracking and doing it all over for long term.

Before photos I have some questions and they will be very straight forward as to what about the swap i need to know.

How big do the k frame spacers need to be to fit the engine in snug? (1.5 in?)

Can you buy and aftermarket K frame that is pre-lengthed to fit?

Im sure some more questions will pop up along the way, from me. Also feel free to ask anything, ill be doing this project for a long time, I have no deadline but have been working every day.:D
 

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Discussion Starter #2
This is/was my black beauty 4 eyes


START OF THE PROJECT:






I have already redone the interior ( pay no attention to the dash cap, its gonna be done right soon :D)





Random Question: That ford motorsport logo on the dash piece, i was told it was rare, and i cant find it anywhere. Is this true?



 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
BOOTLEG exhaust it came with





PULL!








More pictures to come, plus! i just got a new welder, grinder and cutting wheel, Plan is to fix some spots and beef up the car ( fix subframe brace, floor bars)
Also the Trans and driveshaft are droped just needs pictures and to be pulled from under the car, however the clutch cable, cant seem to figure out how it is attetched, unhooked it from the fork but where it mounts at the housing(plastic connector). but I could just pull it off at the pedal considering im getting a c6 when its time to reassemble :D
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Cleanin out the bay, havent been workin so much, its cookin outside!:mad:





Deadly rust spots that will be repaired upon k member lowering




more soon to come!
 

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clean clean clean! Looking good! I like 4 eyes!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
its custom rusted for a modular bumper :p loljk but Its bad, i will be welding 1/4 inch L bent steel from firewall to bumper both sides, and holes drilled by k member bolts, the frame is fine by the k member. How big does the spacer need to be? the one placed between rails and k frame?
 

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I have not got mine done yet, but from what I read you don't need a k member spacer. The k member spacer is only for hood clearance and is needed to put a regular fan on the front of the engine. Anywhere from an 1 1/2" to 2" is plenty.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I will probably be getting some metal tommorow and will have extra square tubing that will work for this just to have it, so it will be available.

I havent had time to work lately, but ive got this solid upcoming 2 weeks uninterrupted so progress will be made.... hopefully alot!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
K FRAME IS OUT! now struggling with some dead struts lol, did some cleaning too

BEFORE


AFTER




 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well I didnt even know what I had, I would like to give a special thanks to bradley gt for informing me that I had a set of D2OE-AB heads!
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Alrigh well its been awhile since ive been able to post/work but the vehicle had the bay fixed a bit but I somehow talked myself into another vehicle with less problems. It will be combined with my 84' to produce a whole new beast, shes an 86 and is already roll caged and all with a much better engine bay.








 

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Sometimes it is best to cut your losses and start over as you are doing. I did a bigblock swap on an 84 with even worse framrails than yours, kept trying to get the guy to scrap it but the exterior was spotless and he wouldn't give up on it, long story short it now has a complete new front subframe and a roll bar (which was redundant with the rusted floor pans but has extra bracing). Tried to get the guy to replace the floorpans first but wouldn't listen and cost him hundreds extra with all the added bracing needed and after all that wants new floor pans:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes: I don't know why but the pre-86's all seem to rust out in same spots
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Exactly how I felt about it, the bay and frame on this one is golden! i mean floor pans aren't structural and easily repairable compared to frame. Its now a transplant project and combining the two. will be redoing the frame bases to new pan areas
 

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Discussion Starter #18
THE WORST OF THE RUST!

SPACERS!!!





CLEAN K MEMBER WITH ALL BRAND NEW JOINTS AND HARDWARE!


PRO SYSTEMS 950 CFM DOUBLE PUMPER! .....next to an L5 15" which i dont even like or want


SWAP KIT!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I live in grand rapids michigan. Im mediocre at welding but by buddy is good, hes taken classes in welding. I plan on trying for a bead the whole way around each patch panel then silicone and paint for rust prevention.

I will also be edead- ing (dynomat ect)the entire interior. :)
 
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