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Discussion Starter #1
Got it out for the 1st time to run it. It was sounding great on Friday night when we did some short test launches and loaded it up on the trailer for Saturday. We had to laugh a little when I fired it up in the pit area and every person we could see stopped what they were doing and started to walk over to me and see what was up. :D I got a ton of compliments on how it sounded. I signed up for 36", 39.5", and 44" tire classes, moved the truck to the shade in the staging area and waited my turn. There is a slight flat spot in the carb where it's transitiong from the idle circuit to the intermediate. It's only noticable when I try to ease on the throttle, if I lay into it, it goes right by it. Anyway, my turn came up to run and I went to stage. Here's the truck on 35's (skinny 10.5" wide on front and 14.5" wide on the rears):

And my run:

You can see and hear they my tranny started slipping really bad and sent me to the rev limiter. I originally just figured I'd gotten out of the groove and was high centered in the mud. I shifted from 1st to 2nd at about 10', and was in 3rd by 20' seeing the shift light in all 3 gears! Pulled it out, let it cool off, gave it a quick wash down and changed tires to my 38.5x11 boggers then went back to the shade.
Here's my C classs run (39.5" and down tire size):

Same again on the shifting, was in 2nd by about 20', in 3rd by about 50'. The tranny was slipping so bad I don't even know if it actually did shift or I was still in 1st or 2nd.
Motor ran super strong, but now I need to drop the tranny pan to see if there's metal in it. I talked with several people that were there and they asked about my converter saying it looked and sounded more like that was the issue with it locking/unlocking causing the fluid to get really hot and overheat the tranny. I've got 2 weeks before the next race, so hopefully i can get it done and ready for there. For now, I'll just be a little sad it's not running. :(
 

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Motor ran super strong, but now I need to drop the tranny pan to see if there's metal in it. I talked with several people that were there and they asked about my converter saying it looked and sounded more like that was the issue with it locking/unlocking causing the fluid to get really hot and overheat the tranny.
Are you running a 4R100? :confused:

If you're running a C6 the convertors don't have lockup clutches.. Sounds more like the tranny is toast, or at least has major line pressure issues. At the end of the last vid it didn't even want to drive away from the pit.

Any standard non-lockup convertor creates heat by its' very nature... but your truck just wasn't putting any power to the pit at all :(
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks guys. It's a race built c6 with billet clutch basket, hardened input and output shafts, billet servo, rollerized, full manual reverse pattern valve body. The only thing that wasn't up to snuff was the 3200-3500 street/strip converter. I really needed a 4500 or 5000 stall converter, so if it stops raining tonight or tomorrow, I'm going to drop the pan and see what the deal is. I'm hoping it's just the converter since it moves and drives normal when it's all cooled down. So 1st thing if the pan has no metal in it will be a fluid flush, and put the right converter in. If it still does it, then the tranny gets pulled for a freshening.
 

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PULL THE DIP STICK, AND WIPE IT WITH YOUR THUMB AND INDEX FINGERS. LOOK AND FEEL. IF IT LOOKS LIKE A LOWRIDER PAINT JOB (METAL FLAKE) ITS DONE. CLUTCHES ARE TOAST STEELS ARE GONE! :mad: SMELL THE FLUID ALSO. IT WILL HAVE A FOUL SMELL WHEN BURNT

GOOD NEWS IS!!! ITS A SCREAMER!!! SOUNDS HEALTHY....:D
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Pulled the dipstick. It's deffinately burnt but don't see any metalic flakes in it. Next step is dropping the pan, flushing the tranny, and moiving to the converter like i was hoping. Cheaper and easier for me to change a converter and pull the whole tranny for a rebuild.
 

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sorry to hear about your tranny, funny thing is I had the same problem my self this weekend, and everybody I talked to said its probably the converter as well, I have a 5000 coan, but its quite old, I'm going to see about sending it back for a rebuild,
do you have someone in mind to build you a new converter

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'm taking it back to Wayne Rogers in Chantilly,VA since he originally built the tranny. While it's there, I'm going to have them re-flash the converter and put in the anti-balooning plates since I'll be spraying NOS on the new motor.

Good news is I think I figured out what happened. Last year I ran a 1/8" steel midplate and not block plate, all was good on clearances. This winter I swapped in a 1/4" aluminum midplate and guess what I didn't do. Yep, I never shimmed the converter back into the tranny like it was supposed to be. And according to the posts I've read from Frank Merkyl, it's supposed to be a maximum of 3/16" out of the tranny. So, long story short I think the converter wasn't engaging in the pump all the way and led to the overheating of the fluid. Rookie mistake and expensive lesson learned.
 

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converter rebuilds

sorry to hear about your tranny, funny thing is I had the same problem my self this weekend, and everybody I talked to said its probably the converter as well, I have a 5000 coan, but its quite old, I'm going to see about sending it back for a rebuild,
do you have someone in mind to build you a new converter

Steve
where do you send your converters to have rebuilt?. i shipped mine to montreal. thanks.
 
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