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1971 D9TE Block D0VE-C Heads, mechanical fuel pump

P.O. has a 3 line fuel pump on the motor, the return port was blocked off with a bolt after about 6 inches. Also a160° stat in it. I switched it to a 192° stat and started experience vapor lock. Bought an online fuel filter with a vapor vent/return and put it between the pump and the carb in front of the fan (flex fan) also want to run the pump return line back to the tank.

The general idea is to keep the fuel circulating, so it's not stagnant, as much as possible.

Idea #1 : Initially I ran both the filter and the pump vent lines to the tank vent line (that goes to the charcoal canister) I "T'd" both off at the soft line at the tank. STUPID IDEA I figured it would go into the tank vs the canister but no.. it came out of the canister

Idea #2 : Turn the tank vent charcoal canister into a dedicated return line for the 2 return lines (from the filter and pump) and install a vented cap for vacuum and pressure.

Idea #3 : run it dead head till the fuel is out, then pull the tank wash it out and burn the remaining fumes with the neck sander hole and breather hole open (to be safe) then weld 2 bungs to add return lines

Not sure which to do.. I think #3 would be the best but I dont want to do that if its unneccessary.. opinions?
 

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You can add a return line to the filler neck, check out the link below, the bung shown can be used in the filler neck even though it says to put it in the tank, or you can put in the tank without doing any welding. I would be very careful while drilling with the fumes in the tank. Filler neck can usually be removed.

Dan

https://www.performanceonline.com/fuel-tank-return-line-bung-kit-universal/
 

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That's very interesting. I would have to route the fuel line into the trunk though. It's a 71 torino all but about a 1/4in of the filler neck is inside the trunk coming from behind the rear license plate.
 

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1971 D9TE Block D0VE-C Heads, mechanical fuel pump

P.O. has a 3 line fuel pump on the motor, the return port was blocked off with a bolt after about 6 inches. Also a160° stat in it. I switched it to a 192° stat and started experience vapor lock. Bought an online fuel filter with a vapor vent/return and put it between the pump and the carb in front of the fan (flex fan) also want to run the pump return line back to the tank.

The general idea is to keep the fuel circulating, so it's not stagnant, as much as possible.

Idea #1 : Initially I ran both the filter and the pump vent lines to the tank vent line (that goes to the charcoal canister) I "T'd" both off at the soft line at the tank. STUPID IDEA I figured it would go into the tank vs the canister but no.. it came out of the canister

Idea #2 : Turn the tank vent charcoal canister into a dedicated return line for the 2 return lines (from the filter and pump) and install a vented cap for vacuum and pressure.

Idea #3 : run it dead head till the fuel is out, then pull the tank wash it out and burn the remaining fumes with the neck sander hole and breather hole open (to be safe) then weld 2 bungs to add return lines

Not sure which to do.. I think #3 would be the best but I dont want to do that if its unneccessary.. opinions?








put the 160 stat back in
 

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HI isn't adding a second return line going to lower fuel pressure to the carb? Why did you change out the T stat? in the first place? were you having problems or something? we need all pertinent information.
good luck
tim
 

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what you may know know is pump gas is not at all like it use to be, It will boil over at a lower temp now then it did in the 1980s, An back then ford added heat shields under carb,and 3 vane pumps to the truck 460s. Gas is not getting any better ,EVERY % of junk they add lowers the temp to where gas boils ,or vapor locks


Dont want it to boil? Install an elect fuel pump. And get the Manuel pump off the eng.

Or install a small kicker pump at the tank.
 

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Hi, are we sure its vapor locking or something else? Next time you get it to vapor lock pull the air cleaner and look inside the carb (motor off) and move the linkage see if there is any squart of fuel into the carb .. Yes then you have other problems.. if NO then yes it is vapor locking. but is it at the carb or in the fuel line or pump. get a couple of the cheap opec filter (so you can see fuel). put one on ether side of the pump or one before the carb and the other before the pump. see if its locking before the pump a fuel line to close to the exhaust or after the pump as the pump to hot..
good luck
tim
 

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YUP, COULD BE THE STATOR,ohm it out

must fall between 400/800ohms 801 junk, 399 junk. will seem just like it vapor locked,and after it cools it will run again
 

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If you are using any form of a DuraSpark ignition the problem could be the module. They were very prone quitting with a little heat then starting back up. Don't bother testing it, just carry a spare.
 
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