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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all! Just as the title states what is a 4 bolt main SCJ/PI block worth? The one I'm looking at is .030 over, has flat top TRW pistons w/ full floating wrist pins, stock rods and everything is good except the crank. The crank sat around and got rusty. I think this was a PI block originally because the heads with it are D2OE castings, no count as well. Long story short the only thing I'll be using would be the block, everything else will be new!

Thanks,
Mike
 

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Hello all! Just as the title states what is a 4 bolt main SCJ/PI block worth? The one I'm looking at is .030 over, has flat top TRW pistons w/ full floating wrist pins, stock rods and everything is good except the crank. The crank sat around and got rusty. I think this was a PI block originally because the heads with it are D2OE castings, no count as well. Long story short the only thing I'll be using would be the block, everything else will be new!

Thanks,
Mike
For me, the bare block would be worth about $750.00 as a core.
D2OE heads probably about $350-$500.00 in rebuildable core condition.


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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Carl! I think I can get it all for a $1,000.00 or pretty close to that? I just want to be fair to the guy, a friend of mine's father. Pretty certain he gave a $1,000.00 for all of it close to 20 years ago and it has sit ever since!

Mike
 

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Thanks Carl! I think I can get it all for a $1,000.00 or pretty close to that? I just want to be fair to the guy, a friend of mine's father. Pretty certain he gave a $1,000.00 for all of it close to 20 years ago and it has sit ever since!

Mike
At a grand you got a good deal. Sell off the P.I. heads and recoup part of your initial investment.

Value is highly dependent on region and scarcity. Prices for many BBF parts continue to climb as supply dwindles. Some things you can't give away. :D

I have a 4 bolt P.I. D0VE block cast in late '71 and I sure the hell wouldn't sell it for $750.00



S
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Like I said, it's a buddy of mines dad's block, heads, etc. The heads are in pretty tough shape, would have to be milled a bunch to get rid of some pitting rust on the mating surface!

I have to make sure my buddy isn't thinking of doing anything with it before I try to buy it from his dad. I could have had it last spring for a song but, I'm honest and like to sleep at night so I shot the dude straight and didn't take advantage of him. Not looking for a pat on the back or anything, just stating what happened!

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'd also like to add that this will be for a future build. I'm going to start searching for a 71 MK III or a 72 MK IV. Either would be fine but, a little more partial to the 72 MK IV! Wanting this beast to be in the 650ish range for horse power. Need some ponies to get a 5,000 lb car moving right lol?

Mike
 

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I'd also like to add that this will be for a future build. I'm going to start searching for a 71 MK III or a 72 MK IV. Either would be fine but, a little more partial to the 72 MK IV! Wanting this beast to be in the 650ish range for horse power. Need some ponies to get a 5,000 lb car moving right lol?

Mike


You're preaching to the choir mike. :grin:

I have special interest in making land barges go very fast. 650 hp 521 or 545 is pretty damned easy these days.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
You're preaching to the choir mike. :grin:

I have special interest in making land barges go very fast. 650 hp 521 or 545 is pretty damned easy these days.
I thought this would get your attention Scott 😏! Definitely going to do a striker of sorts and it looks like Scat is the best gig in town for the money! Haven't heard any good about Eagle in quite some time and the other guys are awful proud of their cranks 😳!
 

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I thought this would get your attention Scott 😏! Definitely going to do a striker of sorts and it looks like Scat is the best gig in town for the money! Haven't heard any good about Eagle in quite some time and the other guys are awful proud of their cranks 😳!
Scat cranks are my top choice. My supplier walks right in the back door and deals with the owner.
Lunati (re-branded scat units) cranks are fine as well.
I can not speak to Ohio and have had good feed back about the RPM cranks.

I rarely use eagle cranks after breaking several. The rods are good however.


A good mild build combination can easily make 630 to 650 hp @ 5,800 at 521" and 5,500 @ 545" with a Torker 2 intake keeping with the lack of hood clearance in the MK III and T Birds. BTW Stan at FPA has your headers covered.

Enjoy your journey.





S
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Scat cranks are my top choice. My supplier walks right in the back door and deals with the owner.
Lunati (re-branded scat units) cranks are fine as well.
I can not speak to Ohio and have had good feed back about the RPM cranks.

I rarely use eagle cranks after breaking several. The rods are good however.


A good mild build combination can easily make 630 to 650 hp @ 5,800 at 521" and 5,500 @ 545" with a Torker 2 intake keeping with the lack of hood clearance in the MK III and T Birds. BTW Stan at FPA has your headers covered.

Enjoy your journey.





S
Thanks for the heads up on the header situation, I know it was a PITA with this MK VII build. I learned the bbf fox swap headers from Hooker aren't a great fit, required a little massaging if you know what I mean?

A mechanic friend of mine swears by Scat cranks. Ohio has supplied a friend of mine with a Windsor stroker crank or 2 and he hasn't been disappointed.

While I'm thinking about it. Where is the cutoff in horse power/torque for stock, non 4 bolt main blocks? Not sure if I'm going to be able to score this one or not?

Thanks,
Mike
 
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