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Discussion Starter #21 (Edited)
Crites now uses a "Gen II" mount which lowers the engine and moves it back toward the firewall about 1" each way. They also now sell different headers for the new mounts.

A search will provide pictures of teh setup...Nickbay posted some pics (gen II mounts and crites headers) and I have posted as well using the Gen II mounts with FPA headers.
Thats great, I guess I am out of date. I got my Crites mounts back in the early 90's. I did the FPA header swap a year or two ago and I love those!
here is a pic of my "1st Gen" Crites MM's

 

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Yep..that looks familar...been running FPA's and Gen 1's for about 8 years. Just now in the process of switching to Gen 2's but keeping the FPA's. Needed some clearancing here and there for this setup.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
lower and set back should be a benift for balance. Do you have to fab a trans Xmember and new drive shaft or is 1" within the adjustablity? I may consider Gen 2's to get more rise on my intake and still fit under the hood!
 

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lower and set back should be a benift for balance. Do you have to fab a trans Xmember and new drive shaft or is 1" within the adjustablity? I may consider Gen 2's to get more rise on my intake and still fit under the hood!
Driveshaft will depend on how much slop you currently have.

Can't say about the cross member....i would think you could probably slot the holes yourself to get the additional 1".
 

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those Tubular Automotive headers, you said crites has some that look just like them.. so would a guy call crites and ask for headers for a 460 in a 67 mustang? .. Nice car by the way
 

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Discussion Starter #29

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Discussion Starter #30
while I was at the show on Sunday, I talked with the Spectre vendors (really great people BTW) about a cold air intake for my Stang. They said bring the car over and they mocked up what I need.


Not sure how much HP gain for the cost but under hood temps do get pretty high in the summer. This should help.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
I haven't updated my build in a while. I haven't done a lot with it except drive it. However, I have made some upgrades. About two years ago I did install electric power steering. The car was originally a 289 car with PS. I had to remove the PS in 1990 when I put in a 460 with the tubular automotive headers and Gen I motor mounts. With still having a 16:1 PS gearbox but no assist it was getting to be a pain to park. I didn't know if the Borgenson gearbox would clear everything. My dad added that to his 66 and really liked it. Not know if it would work but still wanting PS I decided to go with EPAS. I had the 67 "Spear-O-Matic" long shaft gearbox so I had to cut down the shaft. I used a 68 column (that I had planned to install because it was collapsible). I used it mostly because the turn signal switch wiring ran inside the column on the 67 but external on the 68. I did have to modify the collar end of the column to re-use my 67 steering wheel and TS switch. I like that from under the hood you can't see any pump or hoses. It kept an already crowded engine compartment from having more stuff. It also is quiet and adjustable. The factory units are speed sensitive but I use a dial to adjust more assist for parking and less for driving. It has really made the car more fun to drive.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Another upgrade I did in the last couple years was to re calibrate both my tach and speedometer. The tach was a 67 Cougar 6K tach I added many years ago. It was not accurate and the factory wiring ran the hot lead thru the tach to the coil so if the tach failed the car wouldn't run. So I had Gary the Tachman re do it to an 8K three wire tach. He also did the white face in a better quality finish than my white face decals I installed back in the day. While I was at it I also had the speedometer upgraded from a 120 to a 140. So it now has a a 140 mph and 8K combo like the original Shelby Mustangs (although mine are white face). I also replaced my stock 67 steering wheel with a Scott Drake Shelby style.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
More recently I replaced the D0VE-C iron heads with Edelbrock Performer RPM heads. I chose them mostly because the FPA headers and Performer intake I already had would work with them and I could knock 60 lbs off the nose. That and an Edelbrock aluminum water pump and mini starter should shave a total of around 70 lbs give or take off the front end.
My iron heads were in need of new valve seals at the very least. And the springs were getting pretty weak. The valves were starting to float at 5,500 rpm. I had never added hardened seats so I just decided to splurge on the heads. Maybe overkill for my mild engine but I am happy with them.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
for a car that gets driven pretty regularly I also have had to do some body repairs. The first damage occurred actually at the drag strip. I was parked in the grass and when leaving I felt the right front tire drop into a rut. The lower nose caught the ground and did some damage. Since the car needed some bodywork now I decided to do a few things. I had a repop chrome rear bumper so when they repaint the front I wanted to paint the rear bumper. I had a local shop strip the chrome. My son welded the rear bumper brackets inside and filled the bolt holes. Then when they painted the other parts they also painted the bumper.
A few years ago I also noticed a small bubble on the rear quarter. I wanted it fixed before it got worse. The quarters were repop as well that I put on in 1990. I was worried they were rusting but it turns out the body shop who painted the car 10 years ago put a skim coat of filler on the car. The bubble was actually a spot where the filler was still soft. The new shop dug it all out and repainted the quarter. No rust! While they were painting I had them fix the cowl where I had caught the car on fire! I had a small leak in the cowl underneath. I had pulled the heater box and welded a patch. Somehow I caught some caulk or undercoating or something inside the cowl on fire. It bubbled the paint.
So it's had a few repairs. It wears it's road rash like a badge of honor. It's no show car but still looks pretty good for a driver.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
WOW!! That is a long time bump. I'm not sure I ever saw this thread. Nice car! And I love the white faced gauges with the 8000 RPM tach. That was a nice touch.
thanks!
I haven't thought about updating this old thread on regular basis. Maybe I will do better from now on.
 

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I once had a 460 67 coupe with cast heads back in the 90's. I also ran the Tubular Auto Headers and Crites mounts. I was able to bolt a FLEX fan on the front of the water pump (used a T-Bird short water pump) and it worked pretty good with a stock BB radiator shroud. At 8:1 compression and 389 gears, the car was good for 13 second 1/4 mile time slips at about 103 mph. Drove that thing everywhere :surprise:

You really put a lot into that car - wish I still had mine - looking good :D
 

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Those C8SE short water pumps are getting harder to find and expensive to buy
nowadays thanks to the Boss 429 restorers.

With a little set of drag radials you could be well into the 12's I would think.

Car looks great.
 

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I STILL GOT....

Those C8SE short water pumps are getting harder to find and expensive to buy
nowadays thanks to the Boss 429 restorers.

With a little set of drag radials you could be well into the 12's I would think.

Car looks great.
....that water pump :nerd:
 

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Discussion Starter #40
when I get home form the Hot Rod Power Tour this weekend i will begin to pull the engine and trans. I have 2nd gen Crites motor mounts that are supposed to lower the engine and set it back some. I will have to see where that leaves the fan.
 
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