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Discussion Starter #41
well i have a habit of long periods of time updating this thread!
so last update was the Eddy heads. I had some issues with rocker arms. I went with the Comp Cams Magnum roller tips. They failed. On another thread I shared that and discussed the speculation on why.
Anyway, my next upgrade was to change the C6 out for a TKO 600. So I decided to pull the engine and trans because the swap also includes changing the Crite first gen motor mounts to the second gen. Also it's tight in there and I needed to add the slave cylinder for the clutch. It's a lot easier with the engine out. So I also decided to take the engine apart. It's been in the car about 18 years. It's got a lot of hard miles on it. Some of the rocker arm debris went thru the motor and I found some scoring on the crank. Nothing too bad but I decided to put a stroker crank in it.
Block is at the machine shop. It was line honed and now waiting on the pistons for the boring and final hone. It was a standard bore so I'm just going .030" over. With a 4.150" Scat crank it should be around 502 cubes. I went with -28 cc dish on the pistons so with the 75cc heads, I should be around 10 to 1 CR.
Anyway, I got the brake pedal modified for three pedals and the slave cylinder and clutch pedal installed. When I get the block back I will mock up the trans before putting the engine together.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
slave cylinder mounted...
and a few pics of the brake pedal modification.
 

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well i have a habit of long periods of time updating this thread!
so last update was the Eddy heads. I had some issues with rocker arms. I went with the Comp Cams Magnum roller tips. They failed. On another thread I shared that and discussed the speculation on why.
Anyway, my next upgrade was to change the C6 out for a TKO 600. So I decided to pull the engine and trans because the swap also includes changing the Crite first gen motor mounts to the second gen. Also it's tight in there and I needed to add the slave cylinder for the clutch. It's a lot easier with the engine out. So I also decided to take the engine apart. It's been in the car about 18 years. It's got a lot of hard miles on it. Some of the rocker arm debris went thru the motor and I found some scoring on the crank. Nothing too bad but I decided to put a stroker crank in it.
Block is at the machine shop. It was line honed and now waiting on the pistons for the boring and final hone. It was a standard bore so I'm just going .030" over. With a 4.150" Scat crank it should be around 502 cubes. I went with -28 cc dish on the pistons so with the 75cc heads, I should be around 10 to 1 CR.
Anyway, I got the brake pedal modified for three pedals and the slave cylinder and clutch pedal installed. When I get the block back I will mock up the trans before putting the engine together.
Why not go with a longer stroke crank?

I think a 4.5 inch crank (with an .08 inch overore) is plug n play :surprise:

The block doesn't need any clearancing until you get to like 580 cubic inches or something like that.

No replacement for displacement!
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Why not go with a longer stroke crank?

I think a 4.5 inch crank (with an .08 inch overore) is plug n play :surprise:

The block doesn't need any clearancing until you get to like 580 cubic inches or something like that.

No replacement for displacement!
A couple reasons, first, my 429 is an internally balanced engine. I'm on a budget and Scat only makes the 9000 series cast crank internally balanced in a 4.150" stroke. They make forged cranks bigger that are internally balanced but are about a $1,000 more. I could get an externally balanced cast crank with a bigger stroke but would potentially cost a bunch more to get it balanced. So the 4.150" is the most cost effective option. My machine shop will balance the rotating assembly including flywheel and harmonic balancer for about $200 plus materials. Shouldn't need much if any heavy metal with the 4.150".
Second, the car is a driver not a race car so I don't "need" 580 cubes. While bigger might be better and I would love it, the drive train will be doing good to hold up to the 502! I still have a 28 spline 9" rear axle and leaf springs. It's not going to hook. If I make it hook I am going to break the rear end. I drive this thing year round and anywhere and everywhere so I need street tires (not soft compound either) and I want it to be reliable. I only chose the stroker crank since the original crank needs to be ground and I thought of simply going with a 460 crank but for about the same cost of a 460 crank I could get a stroker. So 502 is bigger than 466!
Third, I have the Eddelbrock Performer heads, Performer 460 intake, FPA shorty headers and I am re-using my cam which isn't that big. The top end might limit the potential of a bigger engine.
It should be a handful to drive but fun. I figure one HP per cube should be pretty easy to achieve so it should have around 500hp and gobs of torque. I think it will be enough
 

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Discussion Starter #45
my crank, rods and pistons came in today, now to deliver them to the machine shop!
 

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Discussion Starter #46
got the block back and painted it. Started to mock up the new Crites gen 2 motor mounts and TKO....
 

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Discussion Starter #47
The Crites gen 2 motor mounts gave me a little trouble. They fit together when not installed but pretty tight on the bolts. When the uppers were bolted to the block and lowers to the car, the bolts went it the front but just wouldn't quite fit thru the back. I pulled the whole thing back out and took off the upper and lower mounts. I'm going to elongate the holes on the rear of the mounts and try again. The first gen mounts fit great so I was a bit surprised that these are not fitting well. Glad I am mocking this up first though, it would be much harder when the engine is assembled!
 

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Discussion Starter #48
I got the mounts fixed (elongated the holes) and block is in. Now to get the trans in so I can measure for the driveshaft.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
I haven't updated in a while.
I assembled the engine. Degreed the cam, filed the rings, mic'd the crank and bearings, etc. etc. The cam (and Duraspark distributor checked) by Scotty. The engine made 615 hp and 628 lb/ft of torque on the dyno with 93 octane pump gas. Had to use my FPA headers and run the Alternator so I could run my water pump, so basically it was dyno'd as it will be in the car.
Anyway, I was pretty happy.
 

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Discussion Starter #50

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Discussion Starter #52
Love that 2nd pic. Looks like no way...car looks tiny,great big huge motor. 3rd pic,in! Good job. Headers fit OK?
the Headers were in there when it was a 429 and they fit pretty good. I got the driver's side in today but fought with passenger side all afternoon. I think I am going to have to pull the motor back out partially to put it on and then lower it down in there. The new motor mounts moved the engine back and lower and while I was able to put the headers on with the 429 I cannot get the passenger side one in with the engine in the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #54 (Edited)
Yes, that saved my butt having a tilt mechanism. Air powered would be nice!
Well I got the passenger header in but I had to yank the motor back out. It's a tight squeeze!!! I did have to message a tube right in the center of the shock tower. Looks like they are going to still work.
 

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Discussion Starter #56 (Edited)
driveshaft finally came! I was able to drive this beast again after about a year since I started this whole adventure. The clutch works great, TKO is a bit tight but I hope that will get better as I drive it.
 

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Not trying to be over critical and I really like your car but...the plastic filter and rubber hose looks like a "just to see if it will run"type of deal,especially since everything else looks so nice.That's just my opinion. Maybe hard line or braided with an inline or fender apron canister filter.
 
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