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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hoping someone here may have some experience with something like this...

I don't have an unlimited budget, so that is the reason for my post.

I have several 460 blocks, most are d3 or d9s. I have a complete 545 rotating assembly, and some ported A429 heads.

I am interested in exploring the standing 1/2 mile racing, and I know in order to take on some of the Lamborghinis from a power to weight ratio standpoint, I need to be making around 1200 hp.

I could easily achieve that number with a turbo with 12 to 15 psi (complete guess) on the 545 and spin it to 6000 rpm to try to keep stress down.

I have a girdle for the mains.

My machinist said the best shot I have surviving is to hard block fill the block to bottom of the water jackets, stud the mains, and balance everything as perfect as possible.and since the runs should only be maybe 20 seconds or so, and if the tune is dead on,....we might have a chance.....?

I don't really have the funds for a eliminator block with the expense of the rest of the car...


So what are the chances it can hold together? 50/50?? I have heard of people making it happen, but hoping to find someone who has come close in one way or another.

Thanks in advance! And yes I know it's sketchy and yes I know I should just call Jon kaase and drop 100gs, and get all top quality etc. But I have this stuff soooo....
 

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I would lessen you’re goals a whole bunch!!!! You don’t mention what the vehicle you’re using but those super cars are built (drivetrain and aero wise) to excel at what they do. You can make 1200 or more with a stock block but every time you make a run it may grenade. Why not make a conservative 8 or 900 and go have fun? Just my $.02 Also I don’t think a ported set of A429’s is gonna make that kind of power anyways.
 

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Blueprinting is your pass card and insurance policy. Not only will it make more power, but hold more of it. This is through labor, and is why it is either more work for you, or more expensive in a race engine from a shop. There is a reason race engines are far more expensive than only their parts, general machining and assembly costs.

On a bleeding-edge project, blueprint everything. For example, check the bore alignment of the main bearings, and if needed, do an align-hone. It doesn't take a rocket scientist to get that a crooked set of bores will have more stress on the mains and block skirts, and will fail sooner. But, where else would that stress go? Everything else it touches, and transfers to yet more stuff, such as the crankshaft (is that straight, and are the throws where they should be?), and to other connected parts.

You see where this is going, and that's just one factor — the bearing bores. Yet, you can also see how less stress and more even and smooth operation, fewer stress risers to start cracks, and other stuff will improve the entire engine's ability to make and take power. An engine can only make power limited to it's weakest cylinder, and with blueprinting that limit is equalized across the cylinders and they can all work harder, again for less average stress than cylinders making various power from bore to bore.

You can "easily" make your target goal power*, and boost is "softer" (less stressful) on the engine than NA rpm to reach the goal, but the trick is getting to it and staying there. See my tag line below. :cool:

*using an actual stroker build for power adders as baseline of [email protected], nitrous took it over 1100, only 14 psig boost (done right) could also take it to over 1200. Build for it, and resist the temptation to increase rpm (quick fail) or turn the knobs higher than you prepped and tuned it for. ;)
 

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Hoping someone here may have some experience with something like this...

I don't have an unlimited budget, so that is the reason for my post.

I have several 460 blocks, most are d3 or d9s. I have a complete 545 rotating assembly, and some ported A429 heads.

I am interested in exploring the standing 1/2 mile racing, and I know in order to take on some of the Lamborghinis from a power to weight ratio standpoint, I need to be making around 1200 hp.

I could easily achieve that number with a turbo with 12 to 15 psi (complete guess) on the 545 and spin it to 6000 rpm to try to keep stress down.

I have a girdle for the mains.

My machinist said the best shot I have surviving is to hard block fill the block to bottom of the water jackets, stud the mains, and balance everything as perfect as possible.and since the runs should only be maybe 20 seconds or so, and if the tune is dead on,....we might have a chance.....?

I don't really have the funds for a eliminator block with the expense of the rest of the car...


So what are the chances it can hold together? 50/50?? I have heard of people making it happen, but hoping to find someone who has come close in one way or another.

Thanks in advance! And yes I know it's sketchy and yes I know I should just call Jon kaase and drop 100gs, and get all top quality etc. But I have this stuff soooo....
Just convert the D9 block to 4 bolt mains, keep it 545ci, single turbo and 1200hp @ 6000rpm no problem!!

And then go and kick some F**KING Lamborghinis ***....(y)

Cheers, Bob
 

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We have a couple of combos out that are 4.3" stroke on boost.
One is about 1200 hp on 19#. Ported PC heads and a CJ block with splayed caps on the center 3.
Another was a Tbird door slammer in the high 7's @ 176 mph. It was in an A-460 block n A heads. Again on about 19#'s

I tend to like to keep the stroke shorter on boost. Easier on the mains.

A main girdle is useless unless it and the maid caps are flat to keep them from flexing in the center.

For a half mile I'd half fill it and pay close attention to prep and details as PSIG mentioned.

Ideally a better aftermarket block. They are however MIA right now.





Scotty J. "AKA" The "Mad Porter"
"EMC 2006" 3rd place finisher
Ported BBF iron head specialist & Aluminum heads from all sources.
Custom ground cams
See our products in the Vendor for sale section
Customized crate engines
ParklandAutoMachine.com
R-H-P.biz
"Parkland Performance Auto Machine" Formerly RHP
(253)-988-6648
Parkland Auto Machine
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Blueprinting is your pass card and insurance policy. Not only will it make more power, but hold more of it. This is through labor, and is why it is either more work for you, or more expensive in a race engine from a shop. There is a reason race engines are far more expensive than only their parts, general machining and assembly costs.

On a bleeding-edge project, blueprint everything. For example, check the bore alignment of the main bearings, and if needed, do an align-hone. It doesn't take a rocket scientist to get that a crooked set of bores will have more stress on the mains and block skirts, and will fail sooner. But, where else would that stress go? Everything else it touches, and transfers to yet more stuff, such as the crankshaft (is that straight, and are the throws where they should be?), and to other connected parts.

You see where this is going, and that's just one factor — the bearing bores. Yet, you can also see how less stress and more even and smooth operation, fewer stress risers to start cracks, and other stuff will improve the entire engine's ability to make and take power. An engine can only make power limited to it's weakest cylinder, and with blueprinting that limit is equalized across the cylinders and they can all work harder, again for less average stress than cylinders making various power from bore to bore.

You can "easily" make your target goal power*, and boost is "softer" (less stressful) on the engine than NA rpm to reach the goal, but the trick is getting to it and staying there. See my tag line below. :cool:

*using an actual stroker build for power adders as baseline of [email protected], nitrous took it over 1100, only 14 psig boost (done right) could also take it to over 1200. Build for it, and resist the temptation to increase rpm (quick fail) or turn the knobs higher than you prepped and tuned it for. ;)
Thank you for the response. It's kinda what I was thinking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
We have a couple of combos out that are 4.3" stroke on boost.
One is about 1200 hp on 19#. Ported PC heads and a CJ block with splayed caps on the center 3.
Another was a Tbird door slammer in the high 7's @ 176 mph. It was in an A-460 block n A heads. Again on about 19#'s

I tend to like to keep the stroke shorter on boost. Easier on the mains.

A main girdle is useless unless it and the maid caps are flat to keep them from flexing in the center.

For a half mile I'd half fill it and pay close attention to prep and details as PSIG mentioned.

Ideally a better aftermarket block. They are however MIA right now.





Scotty J. "AKA" The "Mad Porter"
"EMC 2006" 3rd place finisher
Ported BBF iron head specialist & Aluminum heads from all sources.
Custom ground cams
See our products in the Vendor for sale section
Customized crate engines
ParklandAutoMachine.com
R-H-P.biz
"Parkland Performance Auto Machine" Formerly RHP
(253)-988-6648
Parkland Auto Machine
Thanks Scotty. I appreciate your comments. Supports what I was thinking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I would lessen you’re goals a whole bunch!!!! You don’t mention what the vehicle you’re using but those super cars are built (drivetrain and aero wise) to excel at what they do. You can make 1200 or more with a stock block but every time you make a run it may grenade. Why not make a conservative 8 or 900 and go have fun? Just my $.02 Also I don’t think a ported set of A429’s is gonna make that kind of power anyways.
Looking at a tube chassis car, should weigh in at 2100 lbs and some good Aero.
 

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Hoping someone here may have some experience with something like this...

I don't have an unlimited budget, so that is the reason for my post.

I have several 460 blocks, most are d3 or d9s. I have a complete 545 rotating assembly, and some ported A429 heads.

I am interested in exploring the standing 1/2 mile racing, and I know in order to take on some of the Lamborghinis from a power to weight ratio standpoint, I need to be making around 1200 hp.

I could easily achieve that number with a turbo with 12 to 15 psi (complete guess) on the 545 and spin it to 6000 rpm to try to keep stress down.

I have a girdle for the mains.

My machinist said the best shot I have surviving is to hard block fill the block to bottom of the water jackets, stud the mains, and balance everything as perfect as possible.and since the runs should only be maybe 20 seconds or so, and if the tune is dead on,....we might have a chance.....?

I don't really have the funds for a eliminator block with the expense of the rest of the car...


So what are the chances it can hold together? 50/50?? I have heard of people making it happen, but hoping to find someone who has come close in one way or another.

Thanks in advance! And yes I know it's sketchy and yes I know I should just call Jon kaase and drop 100gs, and get all top quality etc. But I have this stuff soooo....
i run a 545 with a 871 aluminum head at 20 percent over in a 67 galaxie that's tubed, 31 x18 tires all i can say is holy f-n **** its scary fast but i have major $$ in the block and its a 2 bolt 74 truck block
 

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Hoping someone here may have some experience with something like this...

I don't have an unlimited budget, so that is the reason for my post.

I have several 460 blocks, most are d3 or d9s. I have a complete 545 rotating assembly, and some ported A429 heads.

I am interested in exploring the standing 1/2 mile racing, and I know in order to take on some of the Lamborghinis from a power to weight ratio standpoint, I need to be making around 1200 hp.

I could easily achieve that number with a turbo with 12 to 15 psi (complete guess) on the 545 and spin it to 6000 rpm to try to keep stress down.

I have a girdle for the mains.

My machinist said the best shot I have surviving is to hard block fill the block to bottom of the water jackets, stud the mains, and balance everything as perfect as possible.and since the runs should only be maybe 20 seconds or so, and if the tune is dead on,....we might have a chance.....?

I don't really have the funds for a eliminator block with the expense of the rest of the car...


So what are the chances it can hold together? 50/50?? I have heard of people making it happen, but hoping to find someone who has come close in one way or another.

Thanks in advance! And yes I know it's sketchy and yes I know I should just call Jon kaase and drop 100gs, and get all top quality etc. But I have this stuff soooo....
I just had this conversation with Doug @ KAASE tracking down some parts and im running a C9 block and Doug said these blocks can easily handle 700-800hp No Problem on the street, NOW on the drag strip where you have slicks and ideal traction.. you are going to need the Ford Racing SVO block. He said on the street the stock block is plenty strong enough BUT He Stated " DO NOT USE A MAIN GIRDLE AND DO NOT ADD 4 BOLT MAINS CAPS...LEAVE IT ALONE BECAUSE IT SHIFTS THE STRESS UPWARDS INTO THE BLOCK AND IT WILL CRACK THE STOCK BLOCK"
Hope this helps
 

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A large amount of added insurance and block longevity will be had by running a 8 counter weight crank, and this true even if your only spinning the thing up to 6K.
Keep in mind that the G force loads on the main web will be twice as great at 6000 rpm as they where at 4000 rpm.
not having those 2 center counter weights will bit a big chunk out of your *** sooner or later.
 

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I just had this conversation with Doug @ KAASE tracking down some parts and im running a C9 block and...He Stated " DO NOT USE A MAIN GIRDLE AND DO NOT ADD 4 BOLT MAINS CAPS...LEAVE IT ALONE BECAUSE IT SHIFTS THE STRESS UPWARDS INTO THE BLOCK AND IT WILL CRACK THE STOCK BLOCK"
For the record: Aftermarket 4-bolted 429-460 passenger car blocks have supported far more horsepower than the production 2-bolt blocks could ever hold, and it is okay to 4-bolt the 2-bolt passenger car blocks if you know the best way how. In drag racing applications 2-bolt blocks often run up to 1000+ HP, and 4-bolted blocks regularly support a lot more than that, such as 1500 and up to 2000 HP. Running a stock block this way is not for the faint of heart but it is not unreliable if you know how to do it and accept the high amount of maintenance that comes with such an engine program. My late busines partner ran a 4-bolted D1VE block in an billet hemi headed engine combo that could generate about 3000 HP, running 96% nitromethane as a rule, and made passes that were not just 1/4-mile long but literally 1-1/3 miles long every pass and did so for 7 years with zero cylinder block failures. The block was unfilled and the oiling was wet sump.
 
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