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I have a 71 f350 crew cab that was originally a 390 truck that I flew out to California and bought then drove back to Ohio. Ran decent but was completely gutless in the mountains on the way back. 10k feet or higher it was all it could do to keep 60-65 mph. Drove it for a couple of months and fixed a few things as needed like valve cover gaskets. Radiator leaked from the upper tank crimp since day one and I think thats actually what got me home. I drove around with the leaky radiator for a while till the leak got too bad and picked up a 3 core aluminum rad to replace it. I started to notice that my coolant lvl still wasnt staying constant after the rad change and shortly after that the oil lvl started to go up a little bit which was odd because it always went down before. So I figured either intake gasket or head gasket and since this engine leaked everywhere I would tear it apart and completely reseal it. A buddy of mine let me borrow his heated garage and I got the engine out and torn down in 1 day. I found 3 different pistons and 2 different styles of lifters. A timing cover that had all but 2 but finger tight and a timing chain chewing itself up. Also found out the 390 got replaced with a 360 at some point. At this point I figured it wasnt worth putting any time or money into the 360 as it was going to be under powered for what I wanted. This is going to be a fun cruiser for the family and also a tow vehicle for my jeep that I am building. The original goal for the truck was to wait a couple years and get one of the new 7.3 engines and 10 spd trans to put in here but this kinda forced my hand to do something else so I decided to pick up a 460.

I picked up a 72 460 with a c6 for $300. Got it home and found someone had dropped the trans at some point as it has a huge chunk out of the bellhousing and a pretty large crack so trans is junk. But I still have an engine. I boresoped it before I bought it and from what I could see it looked pretty good. I sprayed a bunch of liquid wrench in each cylinder right after I got it and the tore it down the next day. Engine moved freely the first time I tried to turn the crank so I was feeling pretty good about it. I found 2 cylinders that have a small amount of rust that was lower on the cylinder wall then I could see. It may hone out. All the rod bearings looked new but the mains looked completely worn out as all of them were down to the copper. I noticed when I pulled the rods and pistons out that some of the numbers on the caps were crossed out and or mixed so I think someone has been in the bottom end before for some reason. All the main and crank journals look fine with no scoring on them.

I feel a very small ridge at the top of the cylinders. I measured it with the bore gage I have it it is only 0.001. Would that be ok to clean up with a hone for a basic performance rebuild?

The main journals on the crank measure between 2.999 to 2.9995. So between 0.0005 to 0.001 undersized. Is that within allowable tolerances or should I have the crank reground to 0.010 under.

What is the out of rounds limit on the connecting rods big end. I can measure them with my bore gage to make sure I do not need to have them remachined or get new ones

I have been looking at parts for this engine and like normal I want all the good stuff. Been really eyeballing a set of AFR 280 heads but I have a jeep that I started building last year that I have spent a lot of money on and it still needs more so I have to reel myself in to not going crazy on parts which is kinda hard to do. I think I have finally settled myself down to finding a set of D3 heads as I have D2 and porting them myself and then getting a new valve job done to them. I want to keep compression around 9:1 so I can use regular pump fuel in this gas hog since an extra $0.60 a gallon on 10 MPGs adds up pretty quick.

I have talked to Scott at reincarnation a couple times now and I am going to have him spec me out a cam and get a few other parts from him. He seems like a helpful knowledgeable guy.

Since I have decided to make this a low cost engine this is what I am thinking
quick fuel 750 carb. not sure which exact one yet but these seem to bee good carbs
performer or performer RPM manifold
get a distributer recurved by Scott
nice roller or double roller timing set
home ported D3 heads
cam and lifter set with springs speced by Scott
as long as everything checks out stock rods and crank
I think I will need pistons to get to 9:1 compression ratio.
Seems like it is beneficial to have the deck of the block milled down to zero deck it to the piston. From my understanding this helps with quench and helps to prevent detonation?
regular volume and pressure oil pump.
L and L headers with 2.5-3 inch dual exhaust
I need to find a rear sump oil pan and pickup as the engine I have is a front sump. Would it be benificial to go with an aftermarket larger capacity oil pan? I have an oil cooler and thermostat I has planning on plumbing into the system. the thermostat is set to open at about 210 degrees. My only question to this is the oil cooler has -8 fittings and I am not sure if this would be too restrictive for the engine. I ran this setup on a turbo 2.3 in my XR4Ti that I had and it didnt cause any issues but not sure on a 460.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
I will most likely be running a c6 for a trans right now. The rear end is supposed to have 4.10 gears in it. I have not verified this yet but it does seem to run pretty high RPM on the highway. The 360 didnt seem too happy much past 70 mph. I will probably be lowering this to 3.73 to make it a little more friendly for cruising around it.

I also have access to a scat 4.3 stroke crank shaft for $250 at a local speed shop. I think its a brand new crank.
If I already need pistons this shouldnt be a huge increase in cost? I know I will have to have it balanced but can I use my stock rods if they are in good shape? Im thinking in the neighborhood of $300 to get it balanced?
 

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Stroker crank can not use your OEM rods nor would you want to.

An inclusive stroker kit with the proper rods, pistons, bearings and rings is about $1700 ish with I beams and about $100 more with H beams.

Build the bottom end with EFI pistons and stock rods. Easy enough to make 400 hp if you pay attention to the instructions...

SJ
used 2b RHP
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I plan on buying your guide. I just jeed to wait on my new debit card after my account got hacked:rolleyes:
 

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I plan on buying your guide. I just jeed to wait on my new debit card after my account got hacked:rolleyes:

If I wasn't clear in my prior post a stock stroke is fine.


SJ
used 2b RHP


.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yeah I saw that. Im not spending that much to increase the stroke on this engine.
 
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