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Discussion Starter #1
I bought my 65 f100 a few months ago and just started to work on the beast. While replacing the timing chain, I discovered a lack of gaskets in the timing cover as well as oil pan, transmission pan, and other places. (the last owner took "gasket maker" alittle too literally.)
Other "gifts" and "surprises" the former owner for left me are, the need to jack the engine up to change the oil,a warped and cracked timing cover, a lack of a parts list for the modifications done to the engine as it seems to be pieced together.It has a 4 bolt balancer, d3ve heads,d6ve intake,a big holley,headers, and supposedly an "rv" cam. For the first few weeks I had it, the valves chattered alittle but it made tons of tire smoking traction destroying power. Then as the timing chain got worse I lost half the power. I replaced the chain and the carb with a 750 edelbrock, and I'm still having issues. a cough through the carb and a small constant backfire through the tail pipes under throttle.

with it needing real gaskets and the correct oil pan and all this stuff I am seriously thinking about putting a 351w in it and redoing the 460 as correctly as I can.

so... in your opinions can I or should I deal with the problems in the truck or swap it and build the 460?
 

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hey big, you forget to mention if it was your daily driver. do you have a shop or just a driveway and some hand tools? is your budget like mine? lol that means none or junkyard parts! if the truck is decent, and you have a front drive compact to drive then fix it when stuff lands in your lap! bobn
 

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Discussion Starter #3
my budget is mostly junkyard parts and some trips to jegs and autozone. Its a clean southern truck, the cab and frame have almost no rust, though the bed floor has seen better days. It is my only vehicle although I don't drive that often.
my friends have all the tools I would need. his garage isnt big enough for a truck so we would be outside doing it, even if we pulled the 460 out and redid it we could take it inside.

i am thinking about a new rear sump pan,pickup,oil pump, all new gaskets, new timing cover, cam, fuel pump eccentric, and all new fasteners, maybe bearings, intake,and a carb rebuild.
 

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Being 385 forum, I say fix the BBF

I am on round 2 after wiping my cam.
All I had to do after the mill was fix my domelight circuit on my Torino's resto. It sure is defeating pulling the car all apart again.
I'm doing to do it though, even though I have a running 302 on the stand.
Its not cheaper to reswap. You have driveshaft length issues, exhuast etc. Stay on track and fix the 460.

Give the PO the gift of holeshots at 4am when your done.
 

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Rebuilt engine

LOL, I bought a car with a 429 engine awhile ago, it had different head casting side to side with large combustion chambers on one side and small on the other. It had pushrods about 1/8" to short, and the list goes on.

I'm tearing apart an FE now, 4 of the head bolts were on so tight my impact could barely pound them out, and some of the others were very loose. It also has different head castings side to side.
 

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I'd say pull it apart and see what it needs. If you can get away with some JY scrounging and a gasket set, put it back together. If it needs more, and you think you might need it before you can get the motor back together, a 351C or 351/400M would be an easier substitute than a Windsor.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
a 351m would be easier but i have windsors. i was thinking after i had already posted i could just collect parts pull the engine and do it in a weekend, but it never goes as planned. for the cash of the swap I could be well on my way to getting the 460 done. maybe I will just plan on having it apart for awhile. I am needing to seriously de-redneck this thing and rod it out some.


i have the d3ve heads, and need a rear sump pan. I would also like a more powerful cam. any suggestions?
 

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Maybe sell a 351W or two and buy a little beater car for $500 to drive while you're building your truck. The one thing I can say from experience is take your time when building a motor. I didn't and it's going to probably end up costing me another $1000.
 

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460 in a 65 problems

This truck should have stock 460 Ford motor mounts. If it doesn’t you should plan on getting some. These are a junk yard part or often listed on e-bay. With the correct mounts and the front drop oil pan you will be able to change oil without jacking up the engine. The front drop pan is “okay” just messy when you change oil because of the side location of the drain plug. I am guessing that you have already resolved the gasket issue with the timing chain cover. As long as the engine runs and doesn’t knock or leak, careful trouble shooting should resolve the stumble on acceleration and constant backfire issue. I would look for a vacuum leak along the intake, base of carburetor and all the vacuum accessories (booster, modulator). Next step would be an evaluation of the ignition system including both mechanical and vacuum advance mechanisms on the distributor. You can buy a remanufactured Duraspark distributor and that may actually solve all the problems. If you have points, consider one of the HEI distributors available on e-bay for a hundred bucks. Double check your plug wiring and firing order and look at the cap for crossfiring. If you have a small cap consider replacing it with the big flat cap and long nose rotor. These are the greatest old trucks and I am glad to see you are bringing one back and actually driving it!
 

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There are all sorts of ways to relocate the oil drain plug. My favorite, with the pan off, is to drill a 1/2 inch hole where you want the plug, take a 1/2 NF castelated nut( from a ball joint), set the prongs against the inside of the pan and screw the plug into it from the outside. TIG the prongs to the pan. This way the pan will drain completely.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
"If you have points, consider one of the HEI distributors available on e-bay for a hundred bucks"
i have thought about that, I was going to start a new thread but since it was brought up here, I am open to opinions on them.
"Double check your plug wiring and firing order and look at the cap for crossfiring"
I did new plugs and wires on it ( the cap looked clean so I only re gapped the points) when I bought it. when I first got it the 6 and 7 were not even firing but that was resolved. maybe a new cap would work. I have a mallory duel point mechanical advance, should i try that?
"These are the greatest old trucks and I am glad to see you are bringing one back and actually driving it!"
I love it! I have had some cool rides but this is the one I think I'll keep.

"drill a 1/2 inch hole where you want the plug, take a 1/2 NF castelated nut( from a ball joint), set the prongs against the inside of the pan and screw the plug into it from the outside. TIG the prongs to the pan. This way the pan will drain completely."
right on! that sounds cheaper than a new pan
 

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65 F100

I would really get after that ignition system. The HEI are a GM part and they are big and ugly but for 100 bucks you cannot beat them. 460 truck motor mounts are available on e-bay. A junk yard van pan, pickup and pump will clear the crossmember and make oil changes easy. Check out www.ford-trucks.com and the slick 60's site for a bunch of Ford truck people. I do not like or use headers. Van exhaust manifolds will clear the right frame rail nicely and unless you race this beast you don't need headers IMHO!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
It has a long way to go before I would even attempt to let it pass tech.

It would be fun to be able to run it at the gasser reunion, though.

First thing is first, I need to make it run right. HEI huh? i was looking at davis unified ignition. they are around 350 bucks, I just dont know if I trust the $100 ebay hei.(you get what you pay for)
has anyone used one?
 

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Hard to beat a Dura Spark setup. Bone yard available, cheap, parts available everywhere, simple to wire up, bolt in. Used in all 460's after 1974(till EFI).
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I was told to used a duraspark distibutor and a dodge box because the dodge throws a hotter spark.

ever heard of that? I was checking and i can get all the parts from autozone for about 100. but for that price I could get the ebay hei.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
update ///a pan fix

i went to auto zone and scored an oil plug kit. 1/2 inch x20 tpi bolt with a smaller bolt threaded in the head of it. there are two grommets and there is a cut down the shaft of the larger threads to allow for the oil to drain out of the head of the larger bolt. it unfortunately needs a nut for inside of the pan but it was only 2 bucks for the thing so i can deal.
I also ordered a ford racing 1 piece oil pan gasket from summit 23 bucks plus shipping. 35 total.

so when it gets here I can pull the pan, degrease it, drill it, paint it, install the new drain plug set, re install it, apply the new oil and filter, and try to tune the beast. after the oil pan issue i need to tackle the backfires.
 

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I had one of the HEI's from Ebay. It worked good. I had clearance prolems with the thermostat housing, and also the hood on my '70 Mustang Fastback....

I love the 1 wire hookup. Solved lots of problems. It is VERY big....

I sold it to one of the guys on this forum...

Did I mention it is Very big????

Steve
 

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Don't be too hasty. You might want to "tackle the backfire" issue while you have the oil pan off, because the bottom of the timing chain cover also seats the front oil pan gasket (unless you're certain it's not valve timing/gear chain related).
 
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