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I know I am new here, but that double rattle sounds like a rod bearing to me.

I had an old small block chevy 30 years ago that got some coolant in the oil for a short while and spun a rod bearing. It sounded just like this
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
Why not remove your oil filter, cut it apart and inspect for metal piece's in the filter.
I would do that before pulling the engine. Since you are not sure if it is really knocking or not.
The knock may not be coming from the engine but somewhere else in the drivetrain. Harmonic's are hard to find because something can be making noise in the rear end and it will sound like it is in the engine.
I have chased these before and they are hard to find and will make you pull your hair out.
Greg

Cut apart my oil filter....Im not seeing any material/junk in the pleats/oil filter....When I was draining it, the oil appeared to have kind of a bronzey sheen to it...I dont want to say super tiny metal flakes but it appeared that way, not sure it was the lights playing tricks on me or the color of the oil pan.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Afternoon All,

So I stopped by the Machine Shop that built my engine. They were helpful. Said it was suspect after I took the intake off, then it started making the noise. Didnt sound valve train related with that low of miles. Oil pressure is good. Doesnt sound groggy/miss on startup. Sounds more "Metallic-y" than a hard knock like a bolt or something broke.

Said it could be(but he was throwing out a lot of stuff):

  • Intake Gasket material knocking around in the engine.

  • Debris on top of the piston.

  • Stuck Lifter

  • Maybe Cam related

Said I would have to bring it up to them and they could diagnose it(which piston possibly causing trouble) and probably bore-scope it to see if they see something.

Thanks for everyone's help. I really appreciate it!!!

Patrick
 

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HI it may be messy but Maybe pull the valve covers and run it for a short time see if the noise stops, just to clear the valve covers from the mix..
I think you use a stethoscope but don't remember?
I've use two cork gaksets glued them together never had any leaks..

good luck take care be safe
tim
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
HI it may be messy but Maybe pull the valve covers and run it for a short time see if the noise stops, just to clear the valve covers from the mix..
I think you use a stethoscope but don't remember?
I've use two cork gaksets glued them together never had any leaks..

good luck take care be safe
tim

I havent done that yet. Ive seen where people have done that and fashioned some cardboard around it to keep the oil in.
I did use a stethoscope and didnt hear anything crazy. I thought I did initially.

Ive got Felpro Rubber gaskets on the valve covers....Specs say .315 inches thick.

Thanks,

Patrick
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
Afternoon all! Hope everyone is doing well.

Just a quick update, I wanted to give everyone the info on what I found.

I took it to the Machine Shop that built my engine a long time ago.

Here is what they believe/think the trouble is and wrote on my invoice:

3/4 Cylinder Misfire- Run Compression test-160 / Air leakage-------Good
Vac shows valve not sealing-Will require cyl heads pulled and checked. Also need to verify camshaft/lifters good.

Suspect foreign matter migrated into cylinders and possible valve bent or not sealing.

$1500-1700 on replacing Cyl Head and gaskets---- + $600 to $800 if needs camshaft and lifters.


Im probably gonna have to shelve this project for a while. Too expensive at this point.
 

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HI I"d start by run the motor, Start pulling plug wires if the nois stops at one cylinder thats the culprit.. That would tell you if it is a rod barren or a main, if it doesn't stop the noise I'd look into a rocker or lifter.. If it was a bent or not sealing valve the motor would have a miss. A bent or not sealing valve would not cause a knock maybe a tick from lifter adjustment going out of wack because a bent valve would leave a lifter loose. But I dough its any of that.. Another thought would be follow the firing order (you'd have to go around twice on the crank ) For ever 1/4 turn of the crank would put the next cylinder in the firing order at TDC. you'd have to use a leak down gauge set up or if you have an air compressor with an adjustable out put to like low pressure 90 to 100 lbs. put air in the cylinder and listen at the exhaust or at the carb. if you can hear it hiss at the exhaust the exhaust valve is not sealing, if you hear a hiss at the carb its an intake not sealing if you hear nothing no valves are leaking.. or you could get a vacuum gauge and check it with in instructions in the kit..

any more coolant in your oil??

good luck take care be safe
tim
 
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