460 Ford Forum banner

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone,

I was hoping some of you guys could chime in and give me advice on building my 73' Lincoln Mark IV.
I currently have a 460 that I'm upgrading with an Edelbrock Performer cam/intake/750 carb/timing chain.
For the 74', I had the stock 95cc chambers cleaned up and the valve springs replaced per Edelbrock's instructions.

My main questions I guess are with my 73. I'd like to be able to enjoy driving it but also get some real 0-60 improvement. I bought a pair of D9VE-C heads that have been ported to 1.72/2.24 cobra jet size. I'd like to run 93 pump gas as in her. Any suggestions on what I should do for improvements? (I haven't had a chance to try out the Edelbrock cam yet, waiting on getting the block back from the machine shop)
I also have a pair of stock D0VE-C heads that haven't been ported at all yet.
Any suggestions or comments are appreciated!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
152 Posts
If the rear end has a highway ratio (2.73-3.25) in it the biggest improvement you’re going to see in the 0-60 is going to a deeper ratio but that means higher cruise rpm.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
184 Posts
Check the rearend before buying any new gears.It might be a weak, 9 3/8" setup. BUt you can still make it work if it is, just not 1/4 mile blasts with slicks. Have the trans gone thru and beefed up. See if there's any weight you can get rid of in the car. Edelbrock isn't the best there is. To generic and lame. But if you go to big, the torque converter will fight you. Open up the exhaust system also.
There's also a pushrod guide kit for your style head rocker arm studs that will allow you to run roller tip rocker arms. Put a windage tray in the pan. Actually if you can find them, a good set of 72 460 PI heads are prefect or similiar. If you're rebuilding the engine completely, bore the cyl, check the deck height and lower to .010" for some more comp.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
398 Posts
Change the rear gear and recurve the distributor and it will feel like a different car. Next step would be headers and free flowing dual exhaust.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
9,136 Posts
The Marks got the 9 3/8" center section and 31 spline axles thru 1972. Very strong but no parts to rebuild and best ratio was 3.25.

1973 and up have a 9" center section with 28 spline axles.

For heavy weight vehicles like this we build two different combos.

Regular fuel 420 hp with 9 to 1 and D3 budget ported heads.
Premium fuel 450 to 460 hp 9.8 to 1 with early small chamber budget ported heads.

Both HP peak at 5000 rpm or below.

Stan Johnson at FPA FordPowerTrain.Com has your headers.

Placing early castings on your current short block will yield 9 to 1 static or a bit less.
The Eddy performer cam is useless. Send it back.
Performer intake is a great choice. Restrict heat through the cross over.
Straight up timing set will have the gear tooth, dot and keyway exactly at noon. Keyway clock wise is retarded.
A properly curved distributor is crucial for ANY application.

2.5" duals with X or H is more than enough.

Build for usable low and mid range power. Stroker engines are a great fit budget permitting.


SJ
used 2b RHP


.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
184 Posts
The Marks got the 9 3/8" center section and 31 spline axles thru 1972. Very strong but no parts to rebuild and best ratio was 3.25.
1973 and up have a 9" center section with 28 spline axles.
Only problem is, depends on when it was built and what was on the shelf when they built it. Many "left over parts" went into the next years vehicles. I've even read, but never seen, where they used up the 4 bolt 429SCJ blocks in anything getting a 429/460 just to get them off the shelf.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
226 Posts
9" third member will bolt right in, and, if you choose to do so make sure you measure correctly for the axles. I installed a Detroit Truetrac 3.25 9" third member, driver side axle was fine passenger side I had to get a new axle 5/8" longer to compensate for the smaller third member and the 9-3/8 has a pin through the spider gears that the Truetrac doesn't.

What are your goals for the car?
 
  • Like
Reactions: dacofa

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Wow, thanks for the responses guys. Here's some more info and a quick update.

I just dropped the 460 crank off at the shop to get polished and get the cam bearings replaced. They're gonna do a .0 30 bore and put new rings on my stock pistons. This is the engine that's going into my 74. Just curious, why is the Edelbrock performer cam no good? I'm new to all this so it won't hurt my feelings, I'm looking for honest advice. The transmission was rebuilt about 5 years/40k miles ago and I don't plan on improving it if I don't have to.

I'd like both cars to be capable of being daily drivers and going on trips. I know this is probably a bit of a contradiction based of the kind of power I was thinking of upgrading to.
A knowledgeable friend of mine also recommended doing the gears to improve my off the line power but I wonder how much that will kill my highway cruising RPMs.

The 73 is gonna be my "build" but again, I'd like it to be drivable, just way better on take off. I'm dying to see what kind of performance improvements I get from just doing the cam/timing.

Any thoughts on the heads I mentioned above? The d0ve-c vs the d9ve big valve ones?...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
184 Posts
I just dropped the 460 crank off at the shop to get polished and get the cam bearings replaced. They're gonna do a .0 30 bore and put new rings on my stock pistons. This is the engine that's going into my 74. Just curious, why is the Edelbrock performer cam no good? I'm new to all this so it won't hurt my feelings, I'm looking for honest advice. The transmission was rebuilt about 5 years/40k miles ago and I don't plan on improving it if I don't have to.
Any thoughts on the heads I mentioned above? The d0ve-c vs the d9ve big valve ones?...
I take it, they assembling the short block when what you say? If so, you have far more trust in them then I would. Seen it to many times oil holes in the crank and block aren't cleaned out completely and you get garbage in the bearings. Same as them doing the rings, did they check the gap first or just assemble them?
Personally I like the D0VE heads better. Because IMO there are better quality made, your can get the guides replaced and hardened exh seats with CJ valves installed. And with the tighter chamber, you can open it up to get the comp ratio you want. D9 heads don't leave you any room to play with them. If the D9 heads haven't been run, switch the stuff over to the D0VE heads. D0VE heads also have the better rocker arm studs over bolts. Send the D0VE heads to that Mad Porter in Tacoma. He'll make you happy.
I owuld at least, put a shift kit in the trans to tighten it up with a deeper pan.
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top