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Hi all,

First timer here.

I've got a 68 mustang coup project car that I got a few years back and was looking for some advice on a few things. The prior owner was en engine guy that wasn't completely 'finish' quality. He swapped out a 77-78 lincoln lima 460 w/ C6. He went over the engine and replaced the cam shaft w/ a hydraulic cam (not too aggressive). He also replaced/upgraded the rear end with a 9" from a ford grenade with disk brakes etc.

The car has been soda blasted and new panels have been applied to the car but a shop. Unfortunately, the arrangement went sour with the shop so that took a while to straighten out. Its the age ole store of a bait-n-switch...

The hard work is mostly done though and the engine bay is ready to have the engine put back in. Painting the car after the engine goes back in. There's still quite a bit of body work needed. ~200-250 hrs i'd say

First, the C6 is being rebuilt locally and the guys has done lots of trannies, so I'm at least comfortable there.

The engine though needs some work around gasketing, clean-up. paint etc. The rear of the intake leaked oil over everything. Above 5000 rpm the oil pressure would piss out and he never re-seated the gaskets.

The intake is the edelbrock 460 performer. Probably this one: https://www.edelbrock.com/performer-460-intake-manifold-2166.html

Question I have is should I upgrade the intake to the RPM Air-Gap? or performer RPM?

I've got to take it off anyway and replace the gaskets so newer could be better? BTW, the engine had a little hesitation on punching the gas peddle (its either air or gas related right). Not sure what caused that.

I'll post pics of the engine and car once I figure out if I can (since its a new account).
 

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Some car ones next.
Throw that Edelbrock carb into the nearest dumpster, and if the motor is mild get a nice Holley 650 double pumper (mechanical secondaries). My 78 460 F150 4x4 pickup truck and my wifes 440 68 Charger, both mild builds, really like the 650 double pumper.

Your mileage may vary...
 

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Doing a very similar project, 67 coup with a 429. I’m really just getting started. Starting engine tear down tonight. Still trying to figure out cam, carb, intake combinations. Bought the car without engine and trans so curious about motor mounts and how you plan to bolt it in
 

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hi Kurt, the same engine was already in the car when I got it. The lima 460 is pretty close to a swap out but the C6 was a column shifter so that was hacked together on the tranny and is being fixed now.

The issues the guy faced when he put in the engine were related to the driveshaft and the tranny to the rear end which was also replace/upgraded. An 8 inch wouldn't of made it with the torque of the 460.

Clearance on the driver side is extremely tight. I had to change the rag joint on the steering column while the engine was in and that was very tight to get to. The exhaust manifold driver side has to be in place before putting in the engine etc. I'm upgrading the log style manifold to headers so that's going to be interesting.

I'll post a pic of the empty bay engine bay and motor mounts for you.
 

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So the engine was just sat in there when I bought it but we pulled it this weekend. We got it stripped down to the crank and I pulled the crank today. Regrettably, one of the pistons fell and broke. Also had rust in the no1 cylinder so may need to swap out the pistons anyway. My first build so debating on having the lower end (pistons and crank) done by a local shop but still debating it. On another post SJ recommended:
RPM intake
Custom cam with about 236 / 248 @ .050:
Properly ported early heads
10 to 1 static c/r
Properly curved distributor.
Holley 750 vac for an automatic
 

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Scotty is the man when it comes to ported iron heads and has built many proven combos, he really knows his stuff. The 460 swap places the motor higher and forward which adds even more to the front/rear weight bias. You didn't mention a budget, depending on what you're willing to spend, a set of aluminum heads will take some much needed weight off the front. Scotty is also an AFR dealer so he can hook you up with his ported iron or aluminum heads, he cam spec you a custom cam and pretty much supply you with any other parts and build input you may need.
 

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Scotty is the man when it comes to ported iron heads and has built many proven combos, he really knows his stuff. The 460 swap places the motor higher and forward which adds even more to the front/rear weight bias. You didn't mention a budget, depending on what you're willing to spend, a set of aluminum heads will take some much needed weight off the front. Scotty is also an AFR dealer so he can hook you up with his ported iron or aluminum heads, he cam spec you a custom cam and pretty much supply you with any other parts and build input you may need.
Mike R: I did a search on "Scotty" and didn't find him. I talked to Summit Racing and they spec'ed out a cam, intake and carb. COMP Cams Magnum Hydraulic Cam and Lifter Kits (CL34-229-4) with Hydraulic Flat Tappet, Duration 270/270, Lift .519/.519 - $220.00. Edelbrock 2166 Performer Intake Manifolds - Dual Plane, Aluminum, Natural, Square Bore. Edelbrock 1411 Performer Carburetor 750 cfm, 4-Barrel, Square Bore, Electric Choke, Single Inlet.

Not much experience on the lower end so I'm getting it done at State Motors: Block Rebore ($160.00), Bake and Peen ($120.00), Crank ($120.00), Heads and Seals ($300.00), Balance and Assembly ($350).
 

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Mike R: I did a search on "Scotty" and didn't find him. I talked to Summit Racing and they spec'ed out a cam, intake and carb. COMP Cams Magnum Hydraulic Cam and Lifter Kits (CL34-229-4) with Hydraulic Flat Tappet, Duration 270/270, Lift .519/.519 - $220.00. Edelbrock 2166 Performer Intake Manifolds - Dual Plane, Aluminum, Natural, Square Bore. Edelbrock 1411 Performer Carburetor 750 cfm, 4-Barrel, Square Bore, Electric Choke, Single Inlet.

Not much experience on the lower end so I'm getting it done at State Motors: Block Rebore ($160.00), Bake and Peen ($120.00), Crank ($120.00), Heads and Seals ($300.00), Balance and Assembly ($350).

I am the "Scotty" Mike is referring to.

A single pattern cam for an iron headed BBF is going to cost you 25+ hp over a similar dual pattern cam.

The factory cam has a 13 degree split favoring the exhaust and our dyno testing on iron headed combinations ported or not ported shows that 12 to 16 degree split offers the best higher rpm performance.

Ported or not the iron heads have an I/E ratio of about 60%

Info in signature line.



SJ
used 2b RHP

:D
 

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You probably will not like that cam very much, I have one in my Ranchero because I had it already and thought I may as well use it but noo I should not have. Would have been much better to get another 275 deh or something along that size. It does have a good smooth idle though..
 
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