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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
If i take internal balanced crank, c9 passenger rods and some hyper pistons, how much you can spin that without balancing?
Is there lot of difference with cast or hyper pistons?

Im just thinking, because i have fresh 429 shortblock and im going to change that to 460 and needed to do that for a cheap.
if i find a freshly built 460 shortblock for reasonable price, i dont need to tare that 429, or just buy crank and pistons and maybe thos cj/truck rods?
 

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If i take internal balanced crank, c9 passenger rods and some hyper pistons, how much you can spin that without balancing?
Is there lot of difference with cast or hyper pistons?

Im just thinking, because i have fresh 429 shortblock and im going to change that to 460 and needed to do that for a cheap.
if i find a freshly built 460 shortblock for reasonable price, i dont need to tare that 429, or just buy crank and pistons and maybe thos cj/truck rods?
You should select a piston that is equal to (or lighter than) the OEM pistons. If you are not going to rebore and the bore has (reasonable) wear, I'd opt for the cast pistons over the hypers which prefer a tighter piston-to-bore fit than the OEM cast.

The higher you want to run the engine, the more important a fine-tuned balance job becomes. You haven't given clear, concise requirements of the engine combination. Stock rebuild for a station wagon? Believe it or not you can technically get away with rings and bearings, and even an overbore if you are checking out new-vs old piston weights etc during the overhaul. That being said, a rebalance of the rotating assembly--and this usually means that it will balanced far more accurately then the mass produced engine was originally--will do wonders for smooth engine operation and longevity, but in a stock rebuilder those advantages would be primarily noticeable and realized in upper rpm ranges only, and less so if driven like A-to-B transportation. Is it better to rebalance? Absolutley. Is it mandatory in every case? Not necessarily.

Paul
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If i had internal balanced crank, and matched rods and pistons what are same weight than oem, then it should be as factory balanced?
But when you balance that with pistons and rods then it should be more accurate than factory balancing and maybe if you balance only a crank it would be better than factory, am i going to forrest??

I think that im going to do that as insurance.
Im not sure if my engine would spin 6000rpms, but if i am going to change my setup for some day.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks paul you have answered when i was writing mine...my setup is going to be like this

D0VE-C 2.19/1.76 stainless valves, 3angle valve job and mild porting with port match (guided by scottys pages)
Voodoo hyd flattappet 276/284adv cam with .564/.582 @050 lift,if i remember specs right
cam matched springs with hd locks and retainers
Stealth or Port o Sonic intake not sure which one i but
Holley 3310s 750VAC
recurved duraspark with 6AL
Hooker super comp 1 7/8 prim 3.5 collectors headers
2400-2800 stall converter (not bought yet)
C6
3.5:1 rear gears

Sorry about bad english
 
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