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Discussion Starter #1
I've been working on the motor and truck for about 2 years now, Getting close to fire up so I figured I would start a build thread here.
Truck was a 72 2wd with an original tired 390/C6, my plan was to convert to 4x4 with tons for 40s. 460, C6, NP205, HP BJ Dana 60, Sterling 10.25, linked front, coil overs, and so on.

So I started with this tread here to figure out what to do...

I got my parts from my long time friend Randy at driven auto in Phx.


Virgin 76 460 out of a van. And so it began
 

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Discussion Starter #2
After over analyzing everything and some conversations with Scotty, I decided to copy his 425hp recipe, buy parts he recommended through him, and have him port the D3 heads. Looking back this was a great decision as I needed his help and expertise along the way.

Called several local machine shops, picked one, and had block, crank, and rods done.


H612CP pistons w/ 12cc dish, static CR 9.3
213/227 cam for low end grunt to get big heavy truck rolling


I assembled the short block and went to check the piston to deck distance. I asked for 0, shop said they would do .005, I got one of each.
Problem was, measuring the crown at both end indicated the rods were bent. Most quite a bit, so had to do something. I sent the turds with pistons attached to Scotty and he took care of me and swapped out the bent car rods for truck rods.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
D3s got a budget port and valve job. Wanted to do porting myself, bought the instructions but didn't have the time to invest to end up with a inferior job. The cost to machine locally was high, confidence low, so it made sense to pay the mad porter to work his magic.


I then installed cam shaft and ran into more problems. Cam was really tight and would not turn once all the way in. 3 journal were out of spec big, so had then turned down at local shop. Not much better. Checked straightness, was bent pretty good. Had it straitened by manufacturer, but still bent and wouldn't rotate. Had a replacement made, it was out a few thou but good enough, installed and moved forward.


Installed heads and measured for pushrods.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Installed a late model 4x4 pan w/ one piece gasket and started mock up in chassis. Much better fit than the smashed-in van pan, which is now a art/shelf above workbench.
New Scat damper.


long block ready to make motor mounts
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Some slight modifications to the chassis for 4wd...

Drivetrain mockup.


Front end going in. I made my own cross members out of rec tubing. Rear is removable so trans can come out. It also ties radius arms in so had to be stout in all directions.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Manifold installed and drivetrain installed for 'last time'.


Eventually it was a roller. 40x13.50-17 Toyo MTs. Rear springs are Chevy 63, which are longer and wider than stock, so I made my own hangers, shackles and so on.


L&L shorties, 2.5" dual to single muffler, 3" out.
60" semi floating traction bar, shackle on the front to allow for/aft movement.


I hate carburetors so went with Holley Sniper EFI. 340lph pump in suburban 31g tank.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Installed cab, people started calling it a 'monster truck'. Not so much to me.


Bed on, front clip installed. starting to look like a truck. I moved front axle forward 2", and sectioned and stretched front fenders 2.5" forward.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Wiring complete. Getting ready for fire-up. Brakes leak, coolant leaks, and so on.
I wanted a stock looking engine bay. No chrome or bling. 70s looking. Modified inner fenders to fit coil over towers.
 

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I will be following this. My plan is similar. 71 F100 4x4 already. Horsetrading for a EFI 460 and E4OD to keep the wife happy. Have a 205 and adapter to bolt on. Plan on warming up the 460 a little. May do a head change to some D0VE's I have after they have had some work done. Hydro roller cam. Maybe stay EFI, maybe not. Gearing we think is 350s so going to leave that alone. Tire sizes will be 15's with probably something no taller then 31 or so. Keeping it low for my short wife. Something for her to run for potting soil and have a bit of fun, me to chase parts and gets around in the snow if it needs to. I would love to do a ZF5 or a ranger overdrive with one of the 4 speeds I have but like the idea of a OD automatic.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Beeeeaaaauuuuttttiiiiffffuuuullll build Snake!!!
Thanks it has been fun to fabricate and learn some new things.

I will be following this. My plan is similar. 71 F100 4x4 already. Horsetrading for a EFI 460 and E4OD to keep the wife happy. Have a 205 and adapter to bolt on. Plan on warming up the 460 a little. May do a head change to some D0VE's I have after they have had some work done. Hydro roller cam. Maybe stay EFI, maybe not. Gearing we think is 350s so going to leave that alone. Tire sizes will be 15's with probably something no taller then 31 or so. Keeping it low for my short wife. Something for her to run for potting soil and have a bit of fun, me to chase parts and gets around in the snow if it needs to. I would love to do a ZF5 or a ranger overdrive with one of the 4 speeds I have but like the idea of a OD automatic.
Sounds like a cool project. I actually went to a lot of effort to make this truck as low as possible to fit 38-40" tires, but it is pretty freaking tall and not easy to get into.

Lookin' Great !!!
SJ
used 2b RHP.
Thanks, and thanks again for all your time, knowledge and support!
 
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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Resolved brake and coolant leaks. Filled and purged power steering system with drill and v-belt. Next is fuel system fill and check.

Question on oil prime;
I plan to pull distributor, prime with drill (in reverse), verify oil pressure. How long should I prime, I have found different methods/arguments. Some say pull valve covers and run till oil out of pushrods. Other say prime till pressure, stop to not flush off the cam paste. Using driven racing BR 30w oil.

Initial distributor clocking;
I have cylinder #1 at 0* TDC comp. After oil prime, I plan to install distributor with rotor centered on #1 post. Guessing Initial timing should be around 8*, do I mess with moving crank to get about 8* (or more) on damper? Or just crank with timing light handy and go from there. Assuming distributor vac advance line be left plugged. Autolite 24s gapped at 0.040" with MSD 6 EFI.

Haven't done a HFT break in for a long time so stressing the details to get this thing to fire quick. EFI adds another level of potential problems.
How long can I crank this thing if it does not fire before cam is damaged?
Is it OK to break up cam break in to address other issues? Like run at 2000 RPM for 5 min, then 15 more. Does break-in time need to be done in one run or just cumulative?
 

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Prime until oil filter is full, system pressurized. This usually only takes 15 seconds. Any more and you can wash the assembly lube off of the bearings.

Clock distributor so rotor points to #1 terminal and reluctor tooth is at or leaving pick up. Set damper to 20* BTDC.

I usually like to run additional timing during cam break in of 20 minutes to avoid glowing exhaust headers.


SJ
 

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I use a speed wrench to do all my priming. You can feel what is going on and you really don't have to crank very fast to get oil PSI to 40. Typically I only crank until I get it flowing out of the pushrods. I like the hand method, it really isn't hard and it saves your drill and if there is any problem, you can feel and hear what is going on.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Prime until oil filter is full, system pressurized. This usually only takes 15 seconds. Any more and you can wash the assembly lube off of the bearings.

Clock distributor so rotor points to #1 terminal and reluctor tooth is at or leaving pick up. Set damper to 20* BTDC.

I usually like to run additional timing during cam break in of 20 minutes to avoid glowing exhaust headers.
SJ
Thanks Scotty, I will use that method. Really excited to hear this thing make some noise....

I use a speed wrench to do all my priming. You can feel what is going on and you really don't have to crank very fast to get oil PSI to 40. Typically I only crank until I get it flowing out of the pushrods. I like the hand method, it really isn't hard and it saves your drill and if there is any problem, you can feel and hear what is going on.
Thanks for the tip. I actually don't have a speed wrench, sounds like a great excuse for tool purchase!
Fantastic looking build! Great job!
Thank you, I'm just a big kid playing with trucks and tools.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Filled cooling system with 5 gallons of distilled water.
Programmed the Dakota Digital dash and did diagnostic check on sensors, all seems OK. Need functional oil and water temp gauges.
Programmed the Holley EFI config and did some initial testing and general familiarization of the system and menus.
Put 4 gallons of fuel in the tank and ran the pump by bypassing relay. Appears to only use about 8 amp but spec is 15. One AN hardline fitting is leaking. I used a 45* flare tool so I figured I may have issues with 37* ANs. Snugged up but leaks the same. Disassembled and inspected joint, looks OK but isn't, in a tight spot.

So far there are no wiring issues. A miracle. Plumbing, not so much...

Hope to fire up this weekend....
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Very nice! Nice workmanship, and planning.
Thanks. Yes planning is an important part, impacts time, money and quality. I probably spent more time figure out how to do things right than actually doing it. Considering integration issues and making things maintainable. Didn't use any zip ties!
 
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