[Mg's 460]

Hey there guys haven't posted anything for a while but I'm getting close to install of my fresh 468 my concern is my oil pressure my bearings clarence's for rod and mains are .0002" on the mains and rods cam bearings are the narrow ones and new with new hydraulic flat tappet camshaft from Comp cams new 3/8 pushrods and so on the oil pump I'm using is from sealed power supposed to be standard pump my Machinist did oil galley modifications and drilled the outlet of the pump a little larger the color of the pressure relief spring is kinda a reddish brown color to my vision now it all put together I first primed the engine with a speed wrench and with a mechanical oil pressure gauge I got it up to 75 PSI of oil pressure with a cheesy 3/8 drill I got a hair above 75 until the drill crapped out and couldn't do anymore and it don't take very long for that to happen for oil I got Valvoline br1 10w30 granted I got the white Molly assembly lube on all the bearings I didn't even have to rotate the engine to get all the lifters to pump up so should I just put it in my truck and send it or should I start worrying I don't have a drill strong enough to prime the engine more than half a minute so oil in the lifters bleed out over night I wish I had a big *** drill to really get everything oiled up good sorta speak. Any help with this or ideas or again I'm I bing paranoid? Oh it's a rear sump system. Here's a couple pics.

 

[pedal2themetal45]

HI,, not sure about your gauge .. it doesn't read in lb's (pounds) it reads in Kg/cm??? it is most likely down to like 25 or 30 LB's... so you don't really have 75 psi (pounds per square inch) because you gauge doesn't read PSI..

good luck take care be safe
tim

 

[ArnoldRC]

It's reading 75 psi or 5.1 kg/cm^2. 75 kg/^2 would be about 1000 psi. As far as the op goes, get a better drill and prime until you see oil coming out of the pushrods, drop in the distributor and fire that bastard.

 

[pedal2themetal45]

oops .. I see the PSI now Duh.. don't know how I missed that OH not coffee yet.... but yeah just run it..

tim

 

[Mg's 460]

It's reading 75 psi or 5.1 kg/cm^2. 75 kg/^2 would be about 1000 psi. As far as the op goes, get a better drill and prime until you see oil coming out of the pushrods, drop in the distributor and fire that bastard.

It's reading 75 psi or 5.1 kg/cm^2. 75 kg/^2 would be about 1000 psi. As far as the op goes, get a better drill and prime until you see oil coming out of the pushrods, drop in the distributor and fire that bastard.

Oil is coming out the pushrods and that's doing it by hand with a speed wrench 75psi Is what I'm getting I'm just worried about what it going to be when I start it up and having it running for 30 minutes at 2,000 rpm.

 

[The Mad Porter]

Oil is coming out the pushrods and that's doing it by hand with a speed wrench 75psi Is what I'm getting I'm just worried about what it going to be when I start it up and having it running for 30 minutes at 2,000 rpm.

Your oil is going to warm up and thin out. Oil pressure will drop.

RUNNIT !!!








Scotty J. "AKA" The "Mad Porter"
"EMC 2006" 3rd place finisher
Ported BBF iron head specialist & Aluminum heads from all sources.
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(253)-988-6648
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[Mg's 460]

Your oil is going to warm up and thin out. Oil pressure will drop.

RUNNIT !!!








Scotty J. "AKA" The "Mad Porter"
"EMC 2006" 3rd place finisher
Ported BBF iron head specialist & Aluminum heads from all sources.
Custom ground cams
See our products in the Vendor for sale section
Customized crate engines
ParklandAutoMachine.com
R-H-P.biz
"Parkland Performance Auto Machine" Formerly RHP
(253)-988-6648
Parkland Auto Machine

Mad Porter if you say run it that's exactly what I'll do thanks for the response.

 

[Mg's 460]

Mad Porter I do have a question for you concerning the lifters now I just for the poop of it I primed the engine again by hand but this time I did it for 10 minutes and half way through the ten minutes I rotated the engine one full turn the lifters we're all pumped up rock solid but again they all bled off over night so is this typical because for the life of me I don't remember if the 402 I built for my wife's car doing that and yes my arms are kinda sore cranking the pump by hand for ten minutes. Lol

 

[wickettoby1]

Mad Porter I do have a question for you concerning the lifters now I just for the poop of it I primed the engine again by hand but this time I did it for 10 minutes and half way through the ten minutes I rotated the engine one full turn the lifters we're all pumped up rock solid but again they all bled off over night so is this typical because for the life of me I don't remember if the 402 I built for my wife's car doing that and yes my arms are kinda sore cranking the pump by hand for ten minutes. Lol

Have you realized that you’ve likely washed away all of the assembly lube that you used when you assembled the engine?

 

[Mg's 460]

Have you realized that you’ve likely washed away all of the assembly lube that you used when you assembled the engine?

It will be primed again after it's in the truck and prior of startup.

 

[1972Mach1]

Your lobes and lifters need to have the assembly lube on them during first start up to prevent the lobe and lifter eating themselves. Continual oil system priming will wash off/thin the assembly lube. I always prime until I get oil up the pushrods to the rockers then I'm done priming and it's time to start it....as has been stated, it is/was time to fire the thing up. But now you need to make sure your cam is still coated in assembly lube first. Or wing it and hope for the best.

 

[ArnoldRC]

Just stop dickin around and fire it.

 

[Mg's 460]

Your lobes and lifters need to have the assembly lube on them during first start up to prevent the lobe and lifter eating themselves. Continual oil system priming will wash off/thin the assembly lube. I always prime until I get oil up the pushrods to the rockers then I'm done priming and it's time to start it....as has been stated, it is/was time to fire the thing up. But now you need to make sure your cam is still coated in assembly lube first. Or wing it and hope for the best.

I haven't rotates the engine enough and I know for certain the oil that's draining down back in the lifter valley ain't draining down on the cam she drains good after the mods plus I can't spin the pump fast enough for oil to get that curried away but yes I'm going to leave it alone and just put it in and let the monster breath.

 

[Mg's 460]

Just stop dickin around and fire it.

Roger that.

 

[FoMoCo]

Is that a typo?

bearings clearance's for rod and mains are .0002"

 

[The Mad Porter]

Is that a typo?

bearings clearance's for rod and mains are .0002"

It had better be...








Scotty J. "AKA" The "Mad Porter"
"EMC 2006" 3rd place finisher
Ported BBF iron head specialist & Aluminum heads from all sources.
Custom ground cams
See our products in the Vendor for sale section
Customized crate engines
ParklandAutoMachine.com
R-H-P.biz
"Parkland Performance Auto Machine" Formerly RHP
(253)-988-6648
Parkland Auto Machine

 

[wickettoby1]

It had better be...








Scotty J. "AKA" The "Mad Porter"
"EMC 2006" 3rd place finisher
Ported BBF iron head specialist & Aluminum heads from all sources.
Custom ground cams
See our products in the Vendor for sale section
Customized crate engines
ParklandAutoMachine.com
R-H-P.biz
"Parkland Performance Auto Machine" Formerly RHP
(253)-988-6648
Parkland Auto Machine

Even with the typo corrected to .002” those aren’t the clearances I’d be using on a 385 series.

 

[The Mad Porter]

Even with the typo corrected to .002” those aren’t the clearances I’d be using on a 385 series.

Really?
We've been running those types of clearances. Typically .0022" mains, .002" rods on our work, street and performance engines up to over 500 hp for a decade with no issues. Run 5 or 10 w 30 oil and reduce bearing leakage and increase oil pressure.

If one is running at high RPM, running NOX or Boost then these require a difference calculus. More clearance, viscosity and oil pump perhaps.

The one size fits all .003" mains and .0025" rods is BS and usually results in low idle oil pressure warm.

As a side note I've been running .0017" mains and rods on my 570hp 460 powered LTD for over 10 years.
35 hot idle and over 60 hot at RPM. This 0 decked OEM short block was supposed to blow up years ago...

Snug bearing clearances require good machine work. ei minimal taper.







Scotty J. "AKA" The "Mad Porter"
"EMC 2006" 3rd place finisher
Ported BBF iron head specialist & Aluminum heads from all sources.
Custom ground cams
See our products in the Vendor for sale section
Customized crate engines
ParklandAutoMachine.com
R-H-P.biz
"Parkland Performance Auto Machine" Formerly RHP
(253)-988-6648
Parkland Auto Machine

 

[Mg's 460]

Is that a typo?

bearings clearance's for rod and mains are .0002"

Yes sorry it was late when I made the post .002

 

[Mg's 460]

Even with the typo corrected to .002” those aren’t the clearances I’d be using on a 385 series.

Why .002 is just fine for a engine that will never see RPM's 5500 now if I would have built it to spin 6500 rpm then I would have gave it more clearance it will be fine where it's at 10w30 will be the oil I'll be using depending on where the oil pressure decides to settle when it's got 1000 miles on it then I'll make my final decision on what wait of oil it for the rest of it's life.