I used a deepened stock CJ pan on my first 514. I don't see why there would be a problem with any of them. Maybe someone else knows more!
514/521 stroker questions
Ok so i bought a 429 dove a block and dove c heads, i want to build a good amount of horsepower, i plan on doing a 514/521 stroker kit, a good mild to aggresive cam except i don't know what that would be number wise duration,lift,etc. i have been searching for parts and the oil pan and they say they are not for strokers where can i find a front sump pan that will fit my motor, any info on what i should do will be greatly appriciated, also anyone have a stroker and if so whats the horsepower numbers and what are the 1/4 mile times, i plan on sticking it in a 79 f100 swb 2wd.
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What are your expectations? What's your budget? How much tolerance do you have for maintenance? Is there a fuel limit?Ok so i bought a 429 dove a block and dove c heads, i want to build a good amount of horsepower, i plan on doing a 514/521 stroker kit, a good mild to aggresive cam except i don't know what that would be number wise duration,lift,etc. i have been searching for parts and the oil pan and they say they are not for strokers where can i find a front sump pan that will fit my motor, any info on what i should do will be greatly appriciated, also anyone have a stroker and if so whats the horsepower numbers and what are the 1/4 mile times, i plan on sticking it in a 79 f100 swb 2wd.
i could care less about fuel milage i will get out of it, i would like to still be able to use 91 octane fuel, what do you mean as in maintence? and budget wise i was looking up parts and i got around the 6000 dollar mark, and i know i was still forgetting some stuff, so i don't really care about it as much but its still abit of an issue, i would like for it to be quick, i would like to take it to the strip a few times and mainly use it to cruise and stomp some ponies and chevrolegs.What are your expectations? What's your budget? How much tolerance do you have for maintenance? Is there a fuel limit?
Meaning of maintenance
What he means by maintenance is your tolerance for working on the car. How often do you want to adjust the valves, tweak the carb and such. The more horsepower you make the harder it is to keep it running. How willing are you to pull the motor, pull the pan and check the rod and main bearings for signs of damage or cap walk.
Clay
What he means by maintenance is your tolerance for working on the car. How often do you want to adjust the valves, tweak the carb and such. The more horsepower you make the harder it is to keep it running. How willing are you to pull the motor, pull the pan and check the rod and main bearings for signs of damage or cap walk.
Clay
Same pan I use, no issues in 10 years.I run a Milodon 10qt pan on my 514 in my 79 f150 no problem with fit .. little bit of cavitation at one time but found running 8 1/2 qts fixed that rather then using 10
she is tight but it fits part #31484
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Exactly. In addition to that. Going with a roller cam will require heavy spring pressures and lifters that have to be pulled and rebuilt periodically. What that interval is, I have no idea.What he means by maintenance is your tolerance for working on the car. How often do you want to adjust the valves, tweak the carb and such. The more horsepower you make the harder it is to keep it running. How willing are you to pull the motor, pull the pan and check the rod and main bearings for signs of damage or cap walk.
Clay
hydro flat tappet - cheapest, least maintenance, 6K RPM ceiling, mild to moderate performance
solid flat tappet - moderate, some maintenance, 7500 RPM+, moderate to aggressive performance
hydro roller - expensive, difficult to setup on BBF, most don't recommend it
solid roller - expensive, most maintenance, 7500 RPM+, max performance
Here's the combo that I ran in my 514 that I had in my boat, I estimated it at around the 600 horse mark.....MONSTER amount of power!......
D1 A2B block, lifter bores bushed, .080" over. Block all debured, no High Flow Dynamics oil mods (didn't know about them yet)
Max ported D0VE-C heads, 52CC chamber (11.2 CR), 2.225" Pro Flo stainless intakes, 1.76" Pro Flo stainless exhaust, hard exhaust seats, bronze guides, Comp ultra-lite roller lifters, Comp dual roller with damper springs (somewhere around 225 closed and 400 open), titanium retainers and 10* locks.
Harland sharp 1.8 roller rockers.
Crower solid roller cam, gross lift: .664" I , .668" E, 248*I, 284*E @ .050", LSA: 108*, installed straight up.
3/8" Comp push rods
Danny Bee belt drive.
Milodon rear sump pan. Stock Mellings HV rear sump pump.
Milodon crank scraper.
Forged flat top pistons.
2Y stock cast crank, off-set ground.
6.7" Eagle H-beam rods.
Weiand tunnel ram (heavily port modified) with dual 750 Holley 4150, 4 corner idle, double pumpers.
MSD 6AL box and MSD small cap dist.
Like I said, this engine put out monstrous amounts of poop and was actually too much motor for the boat, but it was a good combo. Hope that helps.
Rob
D1 A2B block, lifter bores bushed, .080" over. Block all debured, no High Flow Dynamics oil mods (didn't know about them yet)
Max ported D0VE-C heads, 52CC chamber (11.2 CR), 2.225" Pro Flo stainless intakes, 1.76" Pro Flo stainless exhaust, hard exhaust seats, bronze guides, Comp ultra-lite roller lifters, Comp dual roller with damper springs (somewhere around 225 closed and 400 open), titanium retainers and 10* locks.
Harland sharp 1.8 roller rockers.
Crower solid roller cam, gross lift: .664" I , .668" E, 248*I, 284*E @ .050", LSA: 108*, installed straight up.
3/8" Comp push rods
Danny Bee belt drive.
Milodon rear sump pan. Stock Mellings HV rear sump pump.
Milodon crank scraper.
Forged flat top pistons.
2Y stock cast crank, off-set ground.
6.7" Eagle H-beam rods.
Weiand tunnel ram (heavily port modified) with dual 750 Holley 4150, 4 corner idle, double pumpers.
MSD 6AL box and MSD small cap dist.
Like I said, this engine put out monstrous amounts of poop and was actually too much motor for the boat, but it was a good combo. Hope that helps.
Rob
Exactly. In addition to that. Going with a roller cam will require heavy spring pressures and lifters that have to be pulled and rebuilt periodically. What that interval is, I have no idea.
hydro flat tappet - cheapest, least maintenance, 6K RPM ceiling, mild to moderate performance
solid flat tappet - moderate, some maintenance, 7500 RPM+, moderate to aggressive performance
hydro roller - expensive, difficult to setup on BBF, most don't recommend it
solid roller - expensive, most maintenance, 7500 RPM+, max performance
ok so i don't really want to mess with the checking of the bearing clearences and stuff, so as in cam hydraulic flat tappet kit would probably be best, and the carb messing is fine with me just when you start getting to tear it apart every so often sounds like to much for me, i just want a fast cruiser/ occasionaly drag truck,
what i had planned was:
521 stroker kit from eagle, but i would also use a 514 just depends
comp cams kit k34-247-4 from summit
roller rockers harland sharp most like it
edelbrock performer rpm high rise intake
idk yet on carb?
hooker headers 1 7/8, with 3 inch pipes to maybe some hooker aerochambers
manley intake and exhaust valves I-2.19, E-1.76
high flow water pump milodon probably
high volume oil pump probably ford racing
idk on oil pan yet
and msd distributor and ignition box and coil along with 10mm wires
electric cooling fan,
ford racing valve covers
motor mount for 429 convertion
will a 100amp alt work for the electric fan or will a 3g be needed?
is that cam kit good or good enough for what i want, and am i forgetting anything else? like i said all info is welcomed, thanks
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