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Discussion Starter #1
i have a cam with a lift of 543 in and .574ex. wat all needs to be done to the engine to make this cam run without any problems??
 

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i have a cam with a lift of 543 in and .574ex. wat all needs to be done to the engine to make this cam run without any problems??
It depends on the overall engine combination. You need to provide a lot more detail on all the components being put together.

Paul
 

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First thing I can think of, without checking them, the stock heads are usually only good for .530 lift. Seal to retainer clearance will need to be increased.
Valve to piston clearance should be checked also.
To add, duration and comp ratio should be matched. Too low of comp, with too much duration makes a real dog!
 

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ACTUAL valve lift in that engine MUST be measured and not the written theoretical measurement extrapolated from the lobe lift taken for granted.
 

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so what would you do to have this cam running good
You want to build an engine around a cam? Most of us spec the cam for the engine that we want to build. What are the duration specs? Assuming they are around 235 at .050
as mentioned before you need more compression (heads or pistons), better induction (intake and carb), and headers.

If I had a 1974 motor and wanted to make it run without major changes that cam wouldnt be used.
Assuming that the short block is to remain untouched.
Exchange the D3 heads for C8, C9, or D0VE's to bump up the compression.
The cam would be max. duration at 225 dur and .525 lift, must have the springs to match.
A new roller chain with the cam dialed in.
Dual plane manifold with a 750-850 Holley.

There are many more variables that should be evaluated to make decisions based upon vehicle specs. and intended use that will tailor your selections.

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #8
You want to build an engine around a cam? Most of us spec the cam for the engine that we want to build. What are the duration specs? Assuming they are around 235 at .050
as mentioned before you need more compression (heads or pistons), better induction (intake and carb), and headers.

If I had a 1974 motor and wanted to make it run without major changes that cam wouldnt be used.
Assuming that the short block is to remain untouched.
Exchange the D3 heads for C8, C9, or D0VE's to bump up the compression.
The cam would be max. duration at 225 dur and .525 lift, must have the springs to match.
A new roller chain with the cam dialed in.
Dual plane manifold with a 750-850 Holley.

There are many more variables that should be evaluated to make decisions based upon vehicle specs. and intended use that will tailor your selections.

Dave


at.050 duration is 224in. 234ex. and wanted to go with the victor460 intake and possibly 750 holly dp. i was planning on running a gear drive when i was eventually put in the cam and get the heads machined with the whole head setup that came with the cam specs like the springs rockers all that good stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
You want to build an engine around a cam? Most of us spec the cam for the engine that we want to build. What are the duration specs? Assuming they are around 235 at .050
as mentioned before you need more compression (heads or pistons), better induction (intake and carb), and headers.

If I had a 1974 motor and wanted to make it run without major changes that cam wouldnt be used.
Assuming that the short block is to remain untouched.
Exchange the D3 heads for C8, C9, or D0VE's to bump up the compression.
The cam would be max. duration at 225 dur and .525 lift, must have the springs to match.
A new roller chain with the cam dialed in.
Dual plane manifold with a 750-850 Holley.

There are many more variables that should be evaluated to make decisions based upon vehicle specs. and intended use that will tailor your selections.

Dave
and the vehicle is a 82 ford f100 1/2 ton.
 

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Most gear drives are junk and really not needed anyway. For a mild engine, ya will want to stay with a dual plane or a street type single plane.

As Dave said, "If I had a 1974 motor and wanted to make it run without major changes that cam wouldn't be used.
Assuming that the short block is to remain untouched.
Exchange the D3 heads for C8, C9, or D0VE's to bump up the compression.
The cam would be max. duration at 225 dur and .525 lift, must have the springs to match.
A new roller chain with the cam dialed in.
Dual plane manifold with a 750-850 Holley.

There are many more variables that should be evaluated to make decisions based upon vehicle specs. and intended use that will tailor your selections."

What are the goals for your truck?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
i wanted the choppy lope sound and muscle without having to go thru the whole motor... but pretty much with this cam i'll have to rebuild? correct
 

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Lift doesn't make the sound you are wanting. Duration and lobe separation has more to do with it. Still, it makes a crappy engine without the comp recommended for the cam.
 

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i wanted the choppy lope sound and muscle without having to go thru the whole motor... but pretty much with this cam i'll have to rebuild? correct
Then get one of my "custom" street rod camshafts tailored to exactly what you want...
The cam you suggest will cost you most of the torque down low and it won't make much more power upstairs because the rest of the engine won't match it; a real "pooch" for sure.
 

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Personally I'ed get me a Ford C-460 cam, more compression,put a decient valve train in it, cut the guides both for height and size, put on good seals the check the piston to valve clearance, probably have to notch the pistons. A good manifold and carb. By then you will have an engine that will be set up properly to do what you want, and then sell that cam!!
 

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Personally I'ed get me a Ford C-460 cam, more compression,put a decient valve train in it, cut the guides both for height and size, put on good seals the check the piston to valve clearance, probably have to notch the pistons. A good manifold and carb. By then you will have an engine that will be set up properly to do what you want, and then sell that cam!!
I think you fail to see the guys point ... he wants to leave the heads on and not do rebuilding of the short block.

He has his own ideas so, he must know kinda what works. Why he is asking for advice and then simply dismissing it as irrelevant, is beyond me. (tongue firmly planted in cheek).

"Good judgement comes from experience and EXPERIENCE, well ... that comes from bad judgement" - Ben Franklin
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I think you fail to see the guys point ... he wants to leave the heads on and not do rebuilding of the short block.

He has his own ideas so, he must know kinda what works. Why he is asking for advice and then simply dismissing it as irrelevant, is beyond me. (tongue firmly planted in cheek).

"Good judgement comes from experience and EXPERIENCE, well ... that comes from bad judgement" - Ben Franklin
so with the custom grind cam you carry the heads will have to be machined but wont have to touch the short block???
 

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so with the custom grind cam you carry the heads will have to be machined but wont have to touch the short block???
Put the cam & new lifters in the engine with a "straight-up" timing set and do a "break-in" ... nothing needs to be machined.
Better valve springs can be added at a later date if you wish.

I would also use one of the FRPP versions of the Edelbrock "Performer RPM" intake manifolds that "B.F. Evans Race Parts" is selling at a great deal; (if Lem has any left).
 
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