[Shawn01754]

Hi, Guys
Im settling in on this build and Im pretty excited in the regards to the direction Im headed in. The build consists of a .030 over ford DT9E block, Lunati H beam rods, Lunati 4.5 stroke forged crank and Diamond pistons prepped for the AFR head. I have Scott Main from cam research grinding a solid flat tappet cam. As some may know he holds a few NHRA records and just won 2018 engine masters challenge in the traditional muscle class for a second time. He had some very interesting in site. I explained my goals and vehicle. One item of consideration was I wanted 700+ HP & enough vacuum for power brakes.. And his comment was, I would focus on torque with a vehicle like yours (4800lb lincoln markIII). Lets set it up for 700lb of torque, at 6,000 RPM .He also recommended the 295 AFR Head. What a great resource!! Thank you Scott Main of Cam research, grind away!
News | Cam Reseach ? Custom Ford Camshafts

 

[bob460]

Nice....................i think it will make 730-740tq...........but not at 6000rpm...lol

Good luck with the build and share when done.

Cheers, Bob

 

[LukeJarl]

Very cool. Did they give you any simulated power curves for your engine setup? I too am working on a '69 Mark III. I rebuilt the original 460 .030 over about 12 years ago and wished I would have upgraded to a stroker at the time. I am currently using the Edelbrock Performer RPM CJ Heads with a Comp Mechanical Roller Cam. It is basically this build https://www.hotrod.com/articles/ccrp-0602-big-block-ford-engine-build/ from back in 2007. It peaks at about 550 lb/ft at 4200 rpm but makes over 500 lb/ft from 3000 rpm up. It peaks to 500hp at 5200 rpm...so it's makes decent power in the mid-range, but of course I would love more. I would be happy if I could hit the 600 hp mark.


After almost 15 years of trying to know everything I can about Mark III's, I've noticed that despite being a massive car the space under the hood is quite restrictive, particularly when it comes to exhaust. I've been running stock manifolds for a long time, so I know that in reality my engine has probably never seen more than about 450 hp. There aren't many companies that make headers to fit the Lincoln's, but I've heard lots of positive feedback about Ford Powertrain Applications (Ford Powertrain Applications). They are looking to run about $1200 with ceramic coating...steep, but they also seem to be one of the best solutions. I know a bunch of guys raved about them on this site https://www.460ford.com/forum/37-engine-tech/230578-1969-lincoln-mark-iii-headers-fit.html
They seem to be pretty effective up to 700hp and are advantageous on the torque side of things. Again, I haven't used them, but I plan on making an order to Stan by summer.

I'm not sure what your goals are for your Mark III...I'm looking mostly for street with maybe the occasional strip use. But I'm always curious to see what guys are doing with their 460's, especially when they're building up Lincoln's.


Also, I have tons of issues with vacuum in my car because of my cam, and because Lincoln liked to power EVERYTHING on vacuum, so I have tried to eliminate my vacuum system almost entirely. I figured I could pass on some of my info in case you were interested. Here's an electronic conversion kit for Mark III headlights https://www.ebay.com/itm/322444352271?rmvSB=true
I have also eliminated the vacuum door locks, and cruise control. I removed the entire AC system, switched the electric seat motors to mechanical, and after switching from the stock iron heads to Edelbrock's aluminum pair, have cut almost 500 lbs of weight from the car. I figure a 4200 lb Mark III might have a chance at surprising someone off the line.

 

[Shawn01754]

Very cool. Did they give you any simulated power curves for your engine setup? I too am working on a '69 Mark III. I rebuilt the original 460 .030 over about 12 years ago and wished I would have upgraded to a stroker at the time. I am currently using the Edelbrock Performer RPM CJ Heads with a Comp Mechanical Roller Cam. It is basically this build https://www.hotrod.com/articles/ccrp-0602-big-block-ford-engine-build/ from back in 2007. It peaks at about 550 lb/ft at 4200 rpm but makes over 500 lb/ft from 3000 rpm up. It peaks to 500hp at 5200 rpm...so it's makes decent power in the mid-range, but of course I would love more. I would be happy if I could hit the 600 hp mark.


After almost 15 years of trying to know everything I can about Mark III's, I've noticed that despite being a massive car the space under the hood is quite restrictive, particularly when it comes to exhaust. I've been running stock manifolds for a long time, so I know that in reality my engine has probably never seen more than about 450 hp. There aren't many companies that make headers to fit the Lincoln's, but I've heard lots of positive feedback about Ford Powertrain Applications (Ford Powertrain Applications). They are looking to run about $1200 with ceramic coating...steep, but they also seem to be one of the best solutions. I know a bunch of guys raved about them on this site https://www.460ford.com/forum/37-engine-tech/230578-1969-lincoln-mark-iii-headers-fit.html
They seem to be pretty effective up to 700hp and are advantageous on the torque side of things. Again, I haven't used them, but I plan on making an order to Stan by summer.

I'm not sure what your goals are for your Mark III...I'm looking mostly for street with maybe the occasional strip use. But I'm always curious to see what guys are doing with their 460's, especially when they're building up Lincoln's.


Also, I have tons of issues with vacuum in my car because of my cam, and because Lincoln liked to power EVERYTHING on vacuum, so I have tried to eliminate my vacuum system almost entirely. I figured I could pass on some of my info in case you were interested. Here's an electronic conversion kit for Mark III headlights https://www.ebay.com/itm/322444352271?rmvSB=true
I have also eliminated the vacuum door locks, and cruise control. I removed the entire AC system, switched the electric seat motors to mechanical, and after switching from the stock iron heads to Edelbrock's aluminum pair, have cut almost 500 lbs of weight from the car. I figure a 4200 lb Mark III might have a chance at surprising someone off the line.

Great to hear from another lincoln guy! we gotta stick together.. You accomplished a lot and thank you for sharing your resources. Im more than interested on how you eliminated the vacuum accessories. Please elaborate .....Im in awe
Cam research advised on the power curve as well as recommended stall speed, rear end gears and carb. He also advised on what the difference of a torker 2 intake vs the AFR intake. I was out of questions in just a couple minutes and that was impressive. I've seen stans headers and I know some really like them. Im a fan of full size equal length headers (maybe its phycological lol). I had been contemplating weather to go with stans mid size unequal length or build a custom set. The final option is to modify a set of hooker super comp 6216 headers. I got an unused coated set for $250.(pic attached) there a bit weathered but other than that, in great shape.I belive with all headers the abs brake booster has to gt removed. A friend of mine does custom exhaust work and will cut and modify around the collectors as needed to make the transition around the trans crossmember. I may go with a locar cable shift (still using the factory column shift) I think my second option would have been custom headers.
Regarding the intent, very similar to you.. some strip, and I will have plenty of vacuum for power brakes with the 295 afr head. Very tight hood clearance with the AFR intake. depending on the carb i wonder if the low profile air cleaner will fit.I kept my stock motor and built up a secondary motor. I couldn't justify pulling apart a good 460 for a block so my factory motor is still running like a top. We could chat about these old cars all night, lots of question and ideas. We'll chat more! These old lincolns make great sleepers. Im sure you will surprise just about everyone with your car..

I must have read that hot rod article 100 times, Im a fan of that build. I like the king tut reference while looking for the old cobra jet heads.
I also realized one of your link references the headers im using as well as stans lol

heres a fun link to look a different curves, with dyno numbers.. its not really accurate but fun to play around with changing headers etc. Before i spoke with cam research i was having fun trying different combos. I know there is better programs, but this one is free. anyone else have some other free camshaft programs with dyno to play with? http://www.camquest.com/

 

[bob460]

Great to hear from another lincoln guy! we gotta stick together.. You accomplished a lot and thank you for sharing your resources. Im more than interested on how you eliminated the vacuum accessories. Please elaborate .....Im in awe
Cam research advised on the power curve as well as recommended stall speed, rear end gears and carb. He also advised on what the difference of a torker 2 intake vs the AFR intake. I was out of questions in just a couple minutes and that was impressive. I've seen stans headers and I know some really like them. Im a fan of full size equal length headers (maybe its phycological lol). I had been contemplating weather to go with stans mid size unequal length or build a custom set. The final option is to modify a set of hooker super comp 6216 headers. I got an unused coated set for $250.(pic attached) there a bit weathered but other than that, in great shape.I belive with all headers the abs brake booster has to gt removed. A friend of mine does custom exhaust work and will cut and modify around the collectors as needed to make the transition around the trans crossmember. I may go with a locar cable shift (still using the factory column shift) I think my second option would have been custom headers.
Regarding the intent, very similar to you.. some strip, and I will have plenty of vacuum for power brakes with the 295 afr head. Very tight hood clearance with the AFR intake. depending on the carb i wonder if the low profile air cleaner will fit.I kept my stock motor and built up a secondary motor. I couldn't justify pulling apart a good 460 for a block so my factory motor is still running like a top. We could chat about these old cars all night, lots of question and ideas. We'll chat more! These old lincolns make great sleepers. Im sure you will surprise just about everyone with your car..

I must have read that hot rod article 100 times, Im a fan of that build. I like the king tut reference while looking for the old cobra jet heads.
I also realized one of your link references the headers im using as well as stans lol

heres a fun link to look a different curves, with dyno numbers.. its not really accurate but fun to play around with changing headers etc. Before i spoke with cam research i was having fun trying different combos. I know there is better programs, but this one is free. anyone else have some other free camshaft programs with dyno to play with? CamQuest ? Select The Perfect Camshaft & Valve Train Components

What stall did he recommend?

What rear gears did he recommend?

What carb did he recommend?

What did he say what the difference of a torker 2 intake vs the AFR intake?

Cheers, Bob

 

[LukeJarl]

to Shawn...
I would say that if you have a set of headers laying around, definitely try them out! (That's an unbeatable price too!) I would be very interested to see if you are able to get them to fit, and if so, with how much hassle? I was leaning towards Stan's FPS headers just because some reports indicated modification was minimal...but I think you definitely see an advantage with full length headers if you're making more than 600 hp.

I too am using the stock column shifter...hadn't considered changing it but now that you bring up the Lokar option, I'm definitely going to look into that.

 

[LukeJarl]

Shawn, what year is your Mark III? I have a '71 and a '69, but I'm combining them to make one good car. My '69 has a much cleaner body and I recently picked it up (or rather my wife did an excellent job of negotiating) for $1200. I didn't realize there were so many difference between the 68-69 vs the 70-71's. The earlier models have simpler electrical (the seat adjusts are on the seat instead of in the door, except I took the mechanical seat rails out of a mid 60's Thunderbird and all the bolt holes aligned flawlessly, plus I shaved at least 20 pounds a piece in motors). The windshield, windshield wiper grill, rear park tail lights (and even some cosmetic's on the bumpers) are different from 69 to 70, as are the more obvious things like seats, steering wheel, numerals on the clocks, and some of the dash features. One of the bigger things that I just discovered (and I apologize if you already know all of this, but I spent a lot of time trying to track down answers so I figured I should share) is that the spindles for the front disc brakes is different on the early models to the later. I discovered this when I tried to replace the rotors and noticed that it was very challenging to find 1969 rotors, and when I did, they were almost twice as expensive as 70 or 71. In short, the 70 and 71 have bigger bearings, so a little bit stronger. I ended up swapping out the whole spindle/knuckle from my '71 and put it on my '69 (all the other geometries match up). It cut my brake replacement costs in half. I originally wanted to go with Wilwood or upgrade to bigger brakes, but as far as I have looked, no one is making a conversion for the front discs that isn't insanely expensive. So for the time being I have a brand new, albeit basically stock set of Raybestos discs up front, and I'm working to convert the rear to discs, probably when I swap out gears.

 

[LukeJarl]

As far as eliminating the vacuum accessories is concerned, the easiest one is to get rid of the "cruise control." It is a little gray box that mounts somewhere near the driver's side wheel-well. I got rid of mine all together because it functioned by just holding the throttle in a constant position (so it really didn't do anything for maintaining speed up or down hills). Good idea for the 60's, but I don't mind keeping my foot on the throttle. If you eliminate this box and retain your factory speedo, you will however have to get a new speedometer cable because the fittings don't match up. If you haven't eliminated the entire vacuum system, then cap off/plug the port that connected with vacuum.


I also eliminated the vacuum door locks...I don't mind turning a key. Follow the vacuum lines through the door and again disconnect and plug off where they meet up to the greater vacuum control. If you convert to the electric headlights, https://www.ebay.com/itm/322444352271?rmvSB=true (they are a little pricy) and convert to electric, you also eliminate that portion of the vacuum connect, leaving only the heating/AC system and brake booster to draw vacuum. My plan is to install an under the dash heating/defrost/vent system (you could do A/C if you want, but I don't want the power draw or weight) from these guys https://www.vintageair.com/ If you run an under the dash unit you can eliminate the foolishness in having to ever change out the blower fan (not sure if you have had that joy or not yet, but you have to take off the hood, hood mount, and basically the entire A/C system which is really a pain to reach the bottom few bolts. My car happens to have rusted through on the firewall just below the ducting to the heater core, so I plan on welding a flat sheet of steel to patch the hole, seal off existing ducting holes, and generally smooth out the firewall. If you go with an under the dash system, you can basically eliminate all the need for vacuum inside the cabin. It is a bit of a project (and I haven't undertaken it yet, but I've fought the heating/ventilation system enough that I needed to reengineer it). Plus, vintage air makes some nice control panels that look pretty professional. As long as you aren't afraid of some simple wiring, it really modernizes the car.


Finally, I should let you know about the windshield wiper dilemma. Ford, in all of its infinite wisdom decided to run a hydraulic windshield wiper setup. If the thing fails, it usually seizes open and keeps the windshield wipers on. It happened to me. So i've ben looking for an electric conversion. No one makes one yet...but I have been communicating with https://newportwipers.com/ and they are trying to build a solution for Lincolns/Thunderbirds. Converting to electric would declutter the engine bay, eliminate those ugly hydraulic hoses, and hopefully give some more clearance for headers. Anyway, hopefully some of this is useful.

 

[Shawn01754]

What stall did he recommend?

What rear gears did he recommend?

What carb did he recommend?

What did he say what the difference of a torker 2 intake vs the AFR intake?

Cheers, Bob[/QU


1)He recommended 2500 stall, said it would be a pleasure to drive, with torque coming in early, really dont need anything more

2) rear gears of 350ish, which makes sense to me. Should give good hiway mannors with the C-6 and still pull early on enough, in my opinion.

3)I had asked if a self learning unit would reach my goals, answer: yes, Im considering either the holley terminator or this https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fif-30008

4) When I asked about the difference with the torker 2 vs the afr intake, the reply was "oh, theres a big difference..I was like OH? it was an oh that sounded like 30 or 40 Hp without actully saying it. My torker 2 will be a last resort..a good deal may be had on a unmolseted torker 2 lol.

thanks for the question Bob460!

 

[Shawn01754]

As far as eliminating the vacuum accessories is concerned, the easiest one is to get rid of the "cruise control." It is a little gray box that mounts somewhere near the driver's side wheel-well. I got rid of mine all together because it functioned by just holding the throttle in a constant position (so it really didn't do anything for maintaining speed up or down hills). Good idea for the 60's, but I don't mind keeping my foot on the throttle. If you eliminate this box and retain your factory speedo, you will however have to get a new speedometer cable because the fittings don't match up. If you haven't eliminated the entire vacuum system, then cap off/plug the port that connected with vacuum.


I also eliminated the vacuum door locks...I don't mind turning a key. Follow the vacuum lines through the door and again disconnect and plug off where they meet up to the greater vacuum control. If you convert to the electric headlights, https://www.ebay.com/itm/322444352271?rmvSB=true (they are a little pricy) and convert to electric, you also eliminate that portion of the vacuum connect, leaving only the heating/AC system and brake booster to draw vacuum. My plan is to install an under the dash heating/defrost/vent system (you could do A/C if you want, but I don't want the power draw or weight) from these guys https://www.vintageair.com/ If you run an under the dash unit you can eliminate the foolishness in having to ever change out the blower fan (not sure if you have had that joy or not yet, but you have to take off the hood, hood mount, and basically the entire A/C system which is really a pain to reach the bottom few bolts. My car happens to have rusted through on the firewall just below the ducting to the heater core, so I plan on welding a flat sheet of steel to patch the hole, seal off existing ducting holes, and generally smooth out the firewall. If you go with an under the dash system, you can basically eliminate all the need for vacuum inside the cabin. It is a bit of a project (and I haven't undertaken it yet, but I've fought the heating/ventilation system enough that I needed to reengineer it). Plus, vintage air makes some nice control panels that look pretty professional. As long as you aren't afraid of some simple wiring, it really modernizes the car.


Finally, I should let you know about the windshield wiper dilemma. Ford, in all of its infinite wisdom decided to run a hydraulic windshield wiper setup. If the thing fails, it usually seizes open and keeps the windshield wipers on. It happened to me. So i've ben looking for an electric conversion. No one makes one yet...but I have been communicating with https://newportwipers.com/ and they are trying to build a solution for Lincolns/Thunderbirds. Converting to electric would declutter the engine bay, eliminate those ugly hydraulic hoses, and hopefully give some more clearance for headers. Anyway, hopefully some of this is useful.

You mark looks nice and clean! I have a 1971, I remember one day I picked up my daughter from daycare in the 71 lincoln. She was 1-1/2 years old. Well, Suddenly while driving with her in the car, I spotted a glimps of fire from under the hood, looking through the cowl area . The car was on fire due to a blown windshield wiper hydraulic hose spraying transmission fluid on the exhaust manifold! It got intense pretty quick and i yanked the baby from out of the car and started smothering it with my sweatshirt. Some how I got it out, drove home with no power steering and NEVER told my wife.. haha. So I'm in on the electric wiper motor swap too. Its also the car I drove he home with when she was born. Good memories
I may be interested in buying/swapping some parts if theirs anything your willing to part with. Someone on here gave me $200 for my 71 smog pump, I guess its the same as a 1971 BOSS mustang if you want to sell yours, I think he is looking for more.
I will keep the column shifter, but toss the clunky linkage. Did you realize the link you shared has a guy installing the 6216 headers in the mark III. He apparently had a tough time on the drivers side. My thoughts are to set the headers in there, while the motor is out. I really want a foam 460 mock,to set the headers, but Im not spending $300 on one. Maybe someone should rent them out lol. Most of us need one from time to time. please keep the info coming, great to hear you got an great deal on a spare car. Ill PM you to see if theres some parts you may want to sell

thank you

 

[Shawn01754]

Nothing beats the smell of a freshly ground camshaft. a fresh gring of the bump stick.. its quite a turn on

 

[LukeJarl]

You mark looks nice and clean! I have a 1971, I remember one day I picked up my daughter from daycare in the 71 lincoln. She was 1-1/2 years old. Well, Suddenly while driving with her in the car, I spotted a glimps of fire from under the hood, looking through the cowl area . The car was on fire due to a blown windshield wiper hydraulic hose spraying transmission fluid on the exhaust manifold! It got intense pretty quick and i yanked the baby from out of the car and started smothering it with my sweatshirt. Some how I got it out, drove home with no power steering and NEVER told my wife.. haha. So I'm in on the electric wiper motor swap too. Its also the car I drove he home with when she was born. Good memories
I may be interested in buying/swapping some parts if theirs anything your willing to part with. Someone on here gave me $200 for my 71 smog pump, I guess its the same as a 1971 BOSS mustang if you want to sell yours, I think he is looking for more.
I will keep the column shifter, but toss the clunky linkage. Did you realize the link you shared has a guy installing the 6216 headers in the mark III. He apparently had a tough time on the drivers side. My thoughts are to set the headers in there, while the motor is out. I really want a foam 460 mock,to set the headers, but Im not spending $300 on one. Maybe someone should rent them out lol. Most of us need one from time to time. please keep the info coming, great to hear you got an great deal on a spare car. Ill PM you to see if theres some parts you may want to sell

thank you

Wow that's crazy about your hydraulic pump! I had a similar thing happen with my heater core...burst like Old Faithful in a parking lot. But like you said, good memories.

Once I get things transferred over, I would definitely consider getting rid of some stuff off of my '71. You don't happen to have a dark forest green leather interior, do you? The interior out of my '71 is pretty clean. It has been used, but is pretty good shape. I do need the dash, but I don't see myself needing most of the rest of the interior because my '69 is black.

 

[LukeJarl]

What stall did he recommend?

What rear gears did he recommend?

What carb did he recommend?

What did he say what the difference of a torker 2 intake vs the AFR intake?

Cheers, Bob[/QU


1)He recommended 2500 stall, said it would be a pleasure to drive, with torque coming in early, really dont need anything more

2) rear gears of 350ish, which makes sense to me. Should give good hiway mannors with the C-6 and still pull early on enough, in my opinion.

3)I had asked if a self learning unit would reach my goals, answer: yes, Im considering either the holley terminator or this https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fif-30008

4) When I asked about the difference with the torker 2 vs the afr intake, the reply was "oh, theres a big difference..I was like OH? it was an oh that sounded like 30 or 40 Hp without actully saying it. My torker 2 will be a last resort..a good deal may be had on a unmolseted torker 2 lol.

thanks for the question Bob460!

Shawn, if nothing else I'm really glad that you have validated a lot my research. I have spent a lot of years trying to plan out my build and save enough pennies to do so, and it sounds like I was on the right track, because I also was going to go with between a 2400-2600 stall converter, with 3.55 gears AND after working for Ford on late model cars about 7 years ago, really wanted to convert to fuel injection over carburation (I just don't have the confidence in tuning a carb to optimal performance). I was looking at MSD's auto learning throttle body (which I think is made by Holley) https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Atomic-EFI-Throttle-Body-Master-Kit,70643.html?sku=5472900&utm_medium=CSEGoogle&utm_source=CSE&utm_campaign=CSEGOOGLE&gclid=EAIaIQobChMImqyI8Z_L3wIVguNkCh23lAWzEAYYAyABEgIUFvD_BwE If you upgrade to a higher volume fuel pump, it is said to be good to 600hp on naturally aspirated cars. 600 HP is kind of my goal. So it sounds like we are on a similar path...

 

[LukeJarl]

What stall did he recommend?

4) When I asked about the difference with the torker 2 vs the afr intake, the reply was "oh, theres a big difference..I was like OH? it was an oh that sounded like 30 or 40 Hp without actully saying it. My torker 2 will be a last resort..a good deal may be had on a unmolseted torker 2 lol.

Shawn do you know what AFR intake he recommended? I'm assuming it was a single plane and probably lives within the 2500-6500 rpm range? I am currently running an Edelbrock Performer RPM Intake Manifolds 7166 ( https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-7166/overview/make/ford ) just to give it some street manners...but my engine is also only a 460 right now, and not a 500+ CID (yet). My RPM intake is kind of a 1.5 plane manifold...not a true duel plane, but not quite single plane either. It has worked fine for my application, but I don't have a lot to compare it against. I wouldn't go as far as saying it is a high rise intake, but it is a higher raise than stock, and when I added a 1 inch spacer and a standard height air cleaner, I was not able to make the hood shut (and ended up fabbing up an obnoxious hood scoop that was cool 10 years ago, but not so much now). Let me know what you find about clearances because I currently have a really clean stock hood for my '69 and I don't want to chop any holes in it.

 

[Shawn01754]

Wow that's crazy about your hydraulic pump! I had a similar thing happen with my heater core...burst like Old Faithful in a parking lot. But like you said, good memories.

Once I get things transferred over, I would definitely consider getting rid of some stuff off of my '71. You don't happen to have a dark forest green leather interior, do you? The interior out of my '71 is pretty clean. It has been used, but is pretty good shape. I do need the dash, but I don't see myself needing most of the rest of the interior because my '69 is black.

I see the hood in the picture. I think it looks cool! lets see more of it! I dont a have green, mine is also black. My quarter panel on the driver side got side swiped and i need a small section directly above the rear wheel replaced (about 12" x 6") Ill send you a picture and the driver mirror also got ripped off.
The more I look around at efi, Im now thinking about the FAST efi, it supports around 1200HP so ill never out grow it, and its not much more$. I know you asked about the AFR intake. They make 2 for the BBF one for the 4150 carb and the other is a dominator style (i think). Both are hi rise single plane. I think what happens is, when you get into the bigger cubes, the mannerisms change a bit for the better with a single plane. The heavy breathing helps with port viscosity where it become more street friendly. I think a big single plane on a bone stock 460 might be less enjoyable to cruise around with. I am speculating and Im sure someone car clarify. I think you're motivating me more with some of your accomplishment.And that great your wife like the hobby. One time i took my wife for a ride in the lincoln. She was impressed, not even realizing how old it really was. She even said, "this would make a nice family car" then suddenly one of the front calipers froze and i had to drive the car home with the front wheel locked up (it ended up being a bad rubber brake hose the goes to the caliper) after that she wasnt a fan anymore. Thanks!!! FAST efi https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fst-30400-kit?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-fast&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIlZXkudub4AIVSVSGCh2sugtcEAQYAyABEgLzfvD_BwE

i just found this one, a bit more afforable up to 1000 HP [ame]https://www.amazon.com/Fast-303001BT-Sportsman-Blow-Through-Tbody/dp/B01DYJ768C[/ame]

 

[Shawn01754]

All this talk of EFI, I ended up pulling the trigger on the FAST 2.0 30400kit. Cant wait to see it on the door step

 

[bob460]

Nothing beats the smell of a freshly ground camshaft. a fresh gring of the bump stick.. its quite a turn on

Yeah there is............A freshly ground ROLLER camshaft is better!!!.....lol

Cheers, Bob

Ps- what's the specs on camshaft?

 

[Shawn01754]

Yeah there is............A freshly ground ROLLER camshaft is better!!!.....lol

Cheers, Bob

Ps- what's the specs on camshaft?

another car I have kicking around, I had this guy, CNC my heads, intake, set up the roller cam, pistons and carb. Kauffman Racing Equipment With 11" wide tires and a rosstler terminator 2 transmission, the car will smoke the tires at 55mph. I have not attempted it a higher speeds,as the car will begin to kick sideways even with the entire hotchkis suspension, and i can relate to the roller, however the fast efi gives a similar joy, knowing the wars and tears that have been experienced. hopefull it turns out well, AND ill post some pics of the short block sooon as its almost readt to come home lol. Ill look around for the cam card, and maybe sghare the profile lol fun stuff

 

[bob460]

Let me take a guess....... 250/262......630/610 lift......110 lsa.

Cheers, Bob

 

[Shawn01754]

Let me take a guess....... 250/262......630/610 lift......110 lsa.

Cheers, Bob

Interesting concept 20* more lift on the intake. You have some faith in the afr exhaust side and my headers. Lol. Your in the ballpark though. What cam you run bob?