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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I am starting to tweak my '72 Mach 1 for strip/street duty. I have aluminium headed 460 cid with app. 580 hp, TKO600, moser 9" rear with aluminium case, MW pinion support and 3.89 gears with detroitlocer. I have been loosing some weight from the car and it is now 3790 lbs with a driver. Car has mid-eye 175 lbs rear leafsprings with Calvert Racing Cal-tracs. Front has 600 lbs springs.

I have added Weld Prostars for the car and 295/55-15 MT ET Street Radials (equals 27.80 x 12 - 15). I have also coming a set of shockabsobers modified by ex-prostock racer, front shocks have a quick outbound & slow inbound, rear is slow in both ways slow out & inbound.

I will test drive the on spring, I will open up the front swaybar. I have cal-tracs currently in the lowest positions, I will test the passengers side to the upper hole and keep the drivers side in the lower hole.

Here's a one example of my car in motion with 28" tall tire (275/60-15)


You can clearly see that the startup is pretty good even now, but then the rear tires starts to loose traction and the nose dives. Current start I was staged too much to right away from the best traction are. Car ran 13.706s / 114 mph.

My two second starts were allmost similar, but not so severe wheelspin because I lined up better to the stage. Last two ET:s were 12.987-12.974s and 117-117.5 mph, 60 ft times were 2.356-2.390 on all three starts. I ran on fourth gear to the finnish line with 5700 rpm - engine has peak hp power at 6300-6400 rpm.

Any ideas fellows how to improve? Are my thought somewhere between right & wrong? My target is to achieve 1.80s 60 ft times and +6000 rpm on finnish line on fourth gear.

with my current combo on fourth gear (straight 4th 1:1 gear, 3.89 rear and 27.80" tire):

rpm mph
5700 117.8
5800 118.9
5900 120.9
6000 123
6100 125
6200 127.1
6300 129.1
6400 131.2
6500 133.2
6600 135.3


Pretty long message but all input from fellow Ford guys is highly appreciated. Thanks.

Jari
 

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I run mt et 275 60 15 drag radail my 60 is 1.50s r u heating them up for count of4 once u see smoke and get the tire pressure down to 13#. after run check again they will go up try keeping down at 13#. if on a good track that is glued good run 16# I play with it a lot at dragweek with help from lots of fasts guys leave your cals in bottom hole with driver in car adj. cals to just touch then 2 turns if u have rancho shock set to 5 and try it then up to 7 then down to 3 find your best setting will change track to track
dragweek quickest street rod
2009 2010
 

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I would put some lighter springs in the front as well. I have used stock 6 cylinder coils with spacers before but you should be able to get something from hypercoil or some of the stock car places.

dkp
 

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forgot to say u need 5" of travel in front from standing measure the top of the fender well with u in the car then jack it up till the tire is just free and measure u want no less then 5" ...5 is the magic number if its not there and u can't get it cut the rubber nubber if needed they make a control arm spacer for the top between arm and ball joint dragweek quickest street rod
2009 2010
 

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It looks like the rear shocks are not stiff enough (hooks then spins). If you are running the Calvert rear shocks try around 7 or so. Your front springs are too stiff for drag racing, they won't store enough energy to help lift the frontend. If you are running with the front stabilizer bar connected, you can disconnect it to free up the frontend. It almost sounds like it bogs in the beginning, but I can't tell for sure. Someone else mentioned 5" frontend travel, they are correct, it is needed for the caltracs to work at their best. Get rid of the ET street radial and buy the ET street bias, or better yet ET drag (slicks). As you see with a drag radial, once you lose traction, it is near impossible to get it back with a drag radial. A 10 inch wide rim will work better than an 8. I hope this helps.
 

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I have cal-tracs currently in the lowest positions, I will test the passengers side to the upper hole and keep the drivers side in the lower hole. Jari
DO NOT try the caltracs in different holes on each side. That would make the car pull to one side. I assume the caltracs came in the lower position because of your horsepower. If you need to call Calvert and show them your video, they have great tech support.
 

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forgot to say u need 5" of travel in front from standing measure the top of the fender well with u in the car then jack it up till the tire is just free and measure u want no less then 5" ...5 is the magic number if its not there and u can't get it cut the rubber nubber if needed they make a control arm spacer for the top between arm and ball joint dragweek quickest street rod
2009 2010
X2 this is where I would start I am having issues caused by not enough "droop".
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Guys, thanks for the quick response. I was not going to mislead you but I haven't installed yet the new modified Koni shocks (modified valves), nor the MT ET Streets yet. Youtube video is with the old who know what shocks and standard street tires in size 275/60-15. I believe that I can achieve quite a lot with installing the new modified shocks and the MT:s. I agree, that a real bias bly slicks would be easier to drive with manual and tt tolerates wheelspin which ET Street Radial doesn't. I expect 11s ET:s with all the new parts and tires.

I will need to measure how much does the front raises. I know that the 600lbs is not exactly an drag spring. I do like the car being stiff on street but I am willing to tolerate some more "bouncing". Lots of good things to think off. Thanks!

Keep 'em coming if you got 'em!
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Guys, here are the parts that I am installing. Very interesting to see how shocks will work.



Car has no rear installed at the moment, so I haven't been able to measure that do I have the magical 5" of travel in front. I wish I would have bought a real drag tires but I will go with these ones in the picture. Rear is updated to 35 splines for future growth. I am expecting to have 122-125 mph trapspeeds.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Nick, or I've been bad boy so got I my Christmas presents late?? :) I love the Moser M9 housing - there's obviously somebody workin at Moser who knows how to weld. M9 weights 56 1/2 lbs. Old rear was standard 28 splines with detroitlocker and big block drums, weighted 198 lbs, new axle is 196 lbs with 35 splines and aluminium case. Driveaxles are very heavy 42 lbs alltogether - but strong though! Now when the driveline is ready for seriuos punishment I can start torturing it on the strip and to be able to get the practise to work.

Moser gave me a very good customer service, I would order again from them. Everything was pretty much as promised. Now I can't wait the sun to melt all the snow & ice and to be able to test the car with new rear parts. I hope to see the 11s on quarter once the driver (me) learns how to launch the car.
 

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Nick, or I've been bad boy so got I my Christmas presents late?? :) I love the Moser M9 housing - there's obviously somebody workin at Moser who knows how to weld. M9 weights 56 1/2 lbs. Old rear was standard 28 splines with detroitlocker and big block drums, weighted 198 lbs, new axle is 196 lbs with 35 splines and aluminium case. Driveaxles are very heavy 42 lbs alltogether - but strong though! Now when the driveline is ready for seriuos punishment I can start torturing it on the strip and to be able to get the practise to work.

Moser gave me a very good customer service, I would order again from them. Everything was pretty much as promised. Now I can't wait the sun to melt all the snow & ice and to be able to test the car with new rear parts. I hope to see the 11s on quarter once the driver (me) learns how to launch the car.
with 117 mph i would say 11.50 to 11.40
dragweek quickest street rod
2009 2010
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I have started to consider softer coils to front. Moroso has Trick coils with 242 lbb and is rated for a front weight of 1610-1680 lbs. My '72 Mach is rather nose heavy, 3695 lbs with a driver, I cant remember how heavy my front was, but I took the weight distribution 59.5 / 40.5 and calculated that my nose is 2198 with a driver. Does that sound too heavy?? Anyway, I am far away from the only Moroso Trick coils rating made for '65-73 mustang. I can use poly pushings in the upper side of a coil to make some ground clearence. Could use the extra space under headers too... What do you think?

I could get old 289 springs for free coil is app. 9/16", does it gets too soft? I have nothing against the Moroso springs, only consider is that are they way too soft for my nose heavy Mach 1?
 

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The 289 springs did not work on my car, even if they were spaced up, they just collapsed too much. I calculated them to be 269 lb/in. I even tried 351w front springs and they sagged too much also.
I thought about using Moroso fairlane springs which are 250 lb/in, but in the end I wanted a street car, that did not dive when braking, and have some sense of handling. I ended up using NPD Mustang springs. I chose their #9 which is rated at 286 lb/in. I am quite happy with them. With the Calvert front shocks, the front end comes up quite easily. On my car I cut a half a coil off to get the frontend down where I wanted it.

At one time my car was 3303 lbs with driver. It was 58.3/41.7 weight distribution. You might try the NPD springs without cutting a coil on your car. They were around $60 or so.

Just remember, the definition of streetable springs but racing with them, will be different to everyone, based on how much body lean you can tolerate.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I ended up using NPD Mustang springs. I chose their #9 which is rated at 286 lb/in. I am quite happy with them. With the Calvert front shocks, the front end comes up quite easily. On my car I cut a half a coil off to get the frontend down where I wanted it.

At one time my car was 3303 lbs with driver. It was 58.3/41.7 weight distribution. You might try the NPD springs without cutting a coil on your car. They were around $60 or so.

Just remember, the definition of streetable springs but racing with them, will be different to everyone, based on how much body lean you can tolerate.
Number 9's are for 1899lbs front and with 286 lb/in rate, I will give a shot and buy some poly spacers for the top of the spring just to be able to find the correct height. My front is though heavier than the 1899 lbs, mine is around 2150 lbs, lets see what happends.

They are not bad priced app. 80 bucks. I would like to give for the front end the 5" travel as suggested.
 

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Number 9's are for 1899lbs front and with 286 lb/in rate, I will give a shot and buy some poly spacers for the top of the spring just to be able to find the correct height. My front is though heavier than the 1899 lbs, mine is around 2150 lbs, lets see what happends.

They are not bad priced app. 80 bucks. I would like to give for the front end the 5" travel as suggested.
That's why I said try them without cutting them on your car. I don't think you'll need the poly spacers. Also remember if you start spacing up the front end too high you will loose front end travel. My front end was at least 1 inch higher before I cut 1/2 coil off, so if you use them without cutting, you should be fine.
 

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FWIW, after you install all your late Christmas presents and remove front sway bar (if it's still there), be sure to have the 5" front suspension travel and you should be able to pick up on your front bumper and toss the nose of the car up to full extension without too much effort.

Try the Caltracs on the bottom hole. I think that's going to be best on a nose heavy car and with the drag radials. Also, try a slight gap on both sides (no preload). You will want the rebound (extension) on your rear shocks VERY stiff, but loose as possible on the fronts Calvert 90/10's work great up front.

It it hits the tires too hard when you snap out that clutch and they get blown off immediately you will have to gradually add preload to the bars to take tire hit away.
 

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I just got mine to the track after adding shock extensions to get over the 5 inches of droop and I can tell you it was an absolute night and day difference. My truck is running mid 10's with calvert racing shocks and competition engineering slapper bars. That is sweet hoping with some tuning and a gear swap to run consistant 10.30's with slapper bars.
 

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i run 6 cyl springs in mine with iron heads...sits perfect but i like them low.
 
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