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Discussion Starter #1
[




should I lose the chrome molding? They are in great shape, just wondering if the car would look better without them.
 

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yeah, nice chevy II u have there......


















































sorry, had to, i'm just sick like that......always loved the 66 and 7 fairlanes, had a 7 myself, with a kickass 289, c4, 3200 stall, and a 4.56 9", .....that whore would tote the tires on the street....
 

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Got all the body work done to the best of my ability. Sprayed the entire car with epoxy primer and waiting for it to cure. Tomorrow i will spray 2 or three coats of filler primer and will find out how wel i did with the first sentance I started this post with lol
 

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What grit paper should i use on the filler primer to get it ready for the top coat 220grit maybe?
 

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tubais said:
What grit paper should i use on the filler primer to get it ready for the top coat 220grit maybe?
Depends on how rough the paint was before you primed. If your looking to get it strait as possible, and have the time/ money, use a long block with something kind of course, like 120/180. block all the flat panels until you start to burn through on the high spots. If it is taking it all off, and not leaving anything untouched, give it a quick scuff with 220, reprime, and now you have strait car, and all your trying to do is remove the orange peel from the primer. Use a block with something around 220, and work up your grits after that. What you end up with depends on what you are going to sray the car with. Base clear, with a high metallic, I would consider going to 600. Single stage, solid color, you can stop at 400. Maybe 320.

Sound like a lot more work that what it is, and the car will look deadly.


BTW, keep the chrome.
 

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thx for the info I want a metallic finish with a clear. So i will plan on stopping on at 600 grit. I put 2 very heavy coats of urathane primer on top of the full coat of epoxy primer. So seems my weekend is comming to a close I'm gonna see if i can't get the primer knocked down. I have alot of flexable boards for sanding.

I hope this topic isn't boring anyone.

thanks again

Terry
 

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tubais said:
thx for the info I want a metallic finish with a clear. So i will plan on stopping on at 600 grit. I put 2 very heavy coats of urathane primer on top of the full coat of epoxy primer. So seems my weekend is comming to a close I'm gonna see if i can't get the primer knocked down. I have alot of flexable boards for sanding.

I hope this topic isn't boring anyone.

thanks again

Terry
On the contrary. I may do my 68 vert myself.
Are you doing all painting in the garage? A true DIY deal?
What gun are you using?
I was considering trying a down and dirty job with my siphon feed gun and maybe have my body guy do the actual paint coats. Dunno.
 

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Looks like some good elbow grease going on in that garage, and I like how you have your priorities straight. You fix and paint the car before you do the walls, if they were painted, they would just get dust all over them and look dirty. :wink: Now, our women may not see our point of view, but it won't be the first or last time. :)
I will be watching this thread, so please keep us posted as you go.
Good job so far.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
well the sanding goes on lol seems like it never end, no matter how thorugh i try be bee seems like i end up missing something. i figured the best thing to do was buy another gallon of primer.

Phil this is the gun i'm using, i really don't know if it is a good one but its the one i got and its free.

this is the filler primer after sanding with 120 for close to 2 days and it still needs more sanding. i keep making laps around the car rather then in it. every trip around i find more thing to do. i'm getting excited to see it finished. my daughter who is gonna be 2 years old picked the color for me today will try to post the sample color tomorrow
 

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Keep up the hard work, it will result in me seeing some pretty pictures. :p
 

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For the body guys here, i have really no idea what i'm doing. so i have questions about what to do after primer and before finish. is it supposed to be sealed first?
 

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If your using a good primer, I wouln't use a sealer. Just sand it smooth, wash the car to get all the dust out, remask everything with clean new paper, and let 'er fly. Are you going to paint it in the garage too?
 

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Make sure you wet the floor, blow out all the dust and give it time to settle down. I like clean everything, and have everything ready to go at least the night before you spray. I didn't notice where you live but I really try to wait for it to rain while you are spraying. For lots of reasons, not just it keeps the dust down. It kills the smell too. Your neighbors won't be able to tell whats going on, and won't rat you out. :oops:

Unless its raining, I wouldn't use the vents. All it does it stir up the air. Oh, this is a big one, make SURE you wear a mask, a good one.



Clean is the word.
 

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That FINEX gun is a FINE Gun. Made by Sharpe, I sell them along with Devilbiss, Sata, and others where I work. For the money its the best gun on the market. You will not find a better gun for a hundred dollars anywhere.

Good work so far. I agree if your using a good primer you dont have to use a sealer. Just make sure everything is clean and smooth. This is a great learning experience, doing it all your self.
 

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One more tip to keep the crap out of your finish. Just like rubbing a balloon on your shirt, then sticking it to the ceiling with the static charge.......rubbing on that car (sanding, wiping, etc.) builds a static charge that will attract airborne dust while you're painting.

The tires insulate the car from ground, so.....To bleed off the static, you can hang a chain from the chassis to the concrete floor, or attatch a jumper cable to the underside of the car and hook the other end to a cold water pipe or other good ground. Doing this while you're still prepping the car can keep the static charge from building up in the first place. I've done it for years, and it really helps. :wink:

Nice car. Good luck to you.
 
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