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68 Bronco,69 Half cab,77 F250,COE Ford,Long travel Sand Car, 04 Superduty,2019 Six Days,87 CR500 +
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Discussion Starter #1
I just got a great deal on a damaged Pro Stock engine needing some head repair and a sleeve on one cylinder.
My project is to detune this bad boy and run it in a 62' Unibody that I am building into a "Pro-Street" Truck.
I am familiar with the 429/460 engine but is it even feasible to detune this to say 700+ HP on 100LL or E85?
Also aluminum rods for some street use?
If someone has experience with a block like this I would love some details.
I have concerns about cooling and compression on this build. I also don't need 1.25" Lift on the camshaft for what I intend to do. Ill take it down the 1/8 once and a while but mostly looking to just shake the ground and have something different at the local cruise-in.
I know a lot of questions but I think im with some great company an the 460 forum.
If you think this would work out please let me know, otherwise I will find some Hemi heads for my 429.
Thanks for your help.
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Aluminum rods only have a limited "shelf life" So many runs on them then toss them, unless you know for a fact how many runs they have, I would not trust them. On the street any good STEEL aftermarket rod will suffice.
Now as for the heads, it looks like a crack between intake valve on rt. side of screen? Aluminum is easily welded by a Competent person, but those chambers look toast. What version head and block are we looking at?
 

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68 Bronco,69 Half cab,77 F250,COE Ford,Long travel Sand Car, 04 Superduty,2019 Six Days,87 CR500 +
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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for your reply.
Yeah the left head is munched up pretty bad but I have seen worse get salvaged. They heads are M-6049-E460 versions.
When it goes back together It going to be getting a fresh set of aluminum rods mostly because I have ten new ones that came with the pile of other new parts and realistically I put 200 or so miles on the truck with the Y Block engine last year.
I will check on the block numbers next time at the shop.
If I indeed use the 500 in the truck it likely will see more trailer time in the future but I don't want it to be so rowdy as to not be able to idle up to my small town cruze in and summertime car shows.
It may sound like I am off my rocker taking a power plant more suited for a bracket car or a truck puller but the thing just would be bitchin cool in strip/street hot rod.
I have a CJ429 that I was running in my Early Bronco mud truck that I intended to put in the Unibody until I ran across this beast. That 429 snapped a Dana-60 pinion mostly because of cut 44" Boggers and 200 shot of nitrous in the sticky mud. It was somewhat streetable but not to user friendly with spools and massive tires.
I'll probably sell the 429 and a couple other Ford parts to free up some cash for needed upgrades to the 62' only if I'm sticking with the 500.
Original builder of this engine was Panella back in the day. The nice guy that I acquired it from told me it was making 1325HP at 9500 before the carnage.
 

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For about the same amount of money it will cost to repair and reconfigure that grenaded Pro Stock engine, you could build a much more applicable engine from the ground up that would be more practical, be more reliable, be far more maintenance free, and make as much horsepower and far more overall usable power across the rpm range. Detuning that short stroke/big bore engine will make a dog of a motor for the street, what with its gargantuan intake runners, etc. Parts availability will be a hassle and more expensive, such as the unusual head bolt patterned head gaskets, etc. What do you intend to use for a transmission? In the end, a 700 hp 521 or 545 100LL fueled engine would typically crap all over a detuned 700 hp 500-inch Pro Stock engine..

This is not to dismiss your acquisition--it is certainly worth saving and being put to use somewhere, but in a street truck no thanks, and in a show truck those who know the engine would see right through it relative to the application. Unless....you will be using a Lenco with a 4.88 rear gear, etc

P.S.: Keep the current rods in the engine, this is not 1973 and the fear of over-cycled old school aluminum rods is antiquated thinking. The pre-run aluminum rods will be perfectly fine in a detuned combo. Save the new rods for later.
 
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