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There are a lot of synthetic lubricants out there these days and almost all of them are very good. Even the petroleum based oils have improved dramatically over the years, some of which are being restructured at the molecular level and made superior to nature's original design (for our use of the oil).

Lot's of people will post their favorite brand of synthetic, and most of them are fine lubricants. To answer your specific question about Amsoil, I think their products are generally very, very good. Some people are turned off by the multi-level marketing approach by which Amsoil is sold, but the quality of the actual product(s) is excellent. I use their lubricants and their oil filters which have a 7 micron rating. I usually use the 20w-50 Racing, the oil filters and the synthetic wheel bearing grease for my boat trailers. For my F250, though, I just go to Wal-Mart and get a 5-quart jug of Mobil 1 and an FL1A oil filter...grand total about $24.

Whether you need a synthetic really depends on your application. Some synthetics are compatible with alcohol, for example, and others are not. (I think that Amsoil is compatible with MeOH, but don't quote me on that.) Also, if your engine leaks or consumes lots of oil, you may find synthetic lubricants prohibitively expensive.

Sythetics usually have better viscosity stability over wider temperature variations, higher film strength, a higher volatility rating, and longer drain intervals which is where the majority of their savings are realized. I once ran an engine for about 75,000 miles on Amsoil without changing the oil, then disassembled it and the engine appeared as though it was built yesterday.



Paul
 

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Damon I do know I use the Amsiol HP lubricant grease, we had a few guy's here and we took their Hi Temp grease and put it on a hotplate and it went to and above 1000 Degree and all it did was just discolored the outside edge. it did not melt or drip off it stayed on the hot plate andkept it's form. so I put in my wheel bearings.


Randy
 

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Damon...you should have your dealer check into a product sponsorship for you. Amsoil has a pretty active racer support package available...all the dealer has to do is ask and present some information on the racer.

To answer your question...it works. We've run it for a long time. In fact, we've never run anything but synthetics. Motorcraft 5W-30 (back when they made synthetic racing oils), Mobil 1, Castrol Syntec, and now Amsoil. I run Amsoil products in the engine and rear-end (I use regular old John Deere hydraulic oil in the trans). There are 5 other cars that I run around with that use their stuff, too.

I make sure I tell my machinist that the motor will be using synthetic oil and he sets the bearing clearnaces accordingly. I've never run into any issues with a cam manufacturer advising against synthetics. Been racing since 1986 and never had an oil-related failure.
 

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amsoil

We have been using the 20-50 race amsoil for several years in pull truck engines. Like you had afriend that was dealer and he supplied the oil untill he quit as a dealer presently i buy it [email protected] the parts store.No oil related failures. We have torn down engines that have not been turned over in 6 months or so and the parts have a much "slicker" feel than with rregular oil. My advice is go for it. ........ Glen
 
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Damon, I haven't tried Amsoil engine oil just due to the fact I change oil after every race due to running alky. I did switch to Amsoil trans fluid & definitely saw an improvement over the Valvoline fluid I was using. If I was using gas, I would definitely run a synthetic of some sorts.
 
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I ran the 20-50 racing Amsoil when I was on gas, had good luck with it. I run the valvoline vr1 20-50 for the same reason as Chris, we change it every other weekend due to the alky. The vr1 is good stuff, you can hardly hold on to the tools and wash it off your hands. I run Amsoil syn 15 40 in the powerstroke, but only because it was free. I will run regular when its time as I get it free at work as well.
 

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http://www.schaefferoil.com/

We all use this company. Even have a former Amsoil dealer that has switched. They had this demonstratoin with a machine acting as a bearing its hard to explain but, you put pressure on it and see what happens every oil including amzoil squealed like a pig. Then they put shaeffer oil in the cup and no squeal. Supposedly it has moly in it which coats your bearings. And cannot be removed with acid or grinding. My engine at the time was a mild 351w and ran 7.20s in 1/8 I switched it over and the fella I sold it too sprayed it for a year going 6 something in the 1/8th and we took it apart and looked like new inside. I did use amzoil in the past not on this engine and never had any problems but Shaeffers is half the cost of Amzoil and is better in my opinion. You know how opinions are though.
 

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I've heard great things about Schaeffer oil, I've also heard great things about Cen-Pe-Co, both companies started out in the same niche markets. Cenpeco is a major sponsor of the NTPA and no mattter the class most of the blown alky guys use it, I've always used Kendal but I have Cenpeco in the garage to try out this year. Here's their website. http://www.cen-pe-co.com/
 

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richter69 said:
I run the valvoline vr1 20-50 for the same reason as Chris, we change it every other weekend due to the alky.
I used to do that as well. I now run an electric vac pump setup. Not any more power, but it WILL keep the condensed water and alky out of the oil. Just run it a few minutes after every pass.

I run Royal Purple racing synthetic. 10W40. It's not cheap, but I now run it 75 passes between changes. I change it then only because I feel guilty. At 75 passes it still looks good. More importantly, I just tore down my engine for a freshen up after two full seasons. The bearings looked great. Most looked good enough to reuse.

David Cole
 
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I have the same pump, the water is not a problem, the oil just gets a tad "green" from the methanol hence the reason for changing it. Still sneakin' up on the tuneup, its a bit fat still.
 
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