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Discussion Starter #1
im building a 68 galaxie this will be the setup

533
10.68CR
260/269 @.050 Solid Roller .650/650
Victor Intake
Victor Matched Trick Flow Streets
1150 Dominator
2" Long Tubes
Mechanical WP and Fuel Pump
MSD Distributor
Crane Ignition
C6
9" 3.70 Detroit Locker Rear
+ all supporting mods

I know the heads are a lil small but this is a 90% or more street driven car but more importantly im already way over budget LOL. Im not sure when it will all be done but im hoping by the end of this summer. ( have all the parts just about) Anybody wanna take a guess at the flywheel/ RWHP numbers it might put down?
 

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my goal is to have OVER 500RWHP. looking over at fordmuscle.com i see there are a lot of 408W and 427w strokers that have about that much so i figured its a nice round number to shoot for and i thought it would be EASILY attainable with 533cid and heads that flow about 350cfm. is my goal attainable with what i have? im starting to think that a 4.6 cobra engine might have been easier...........
 
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MauriSSSio said:
my goal is to have OVER 500RWHP. looking over at fordmuscle.com i see there are a lot of 408W and 427w strokers that have about that much so i figured its a nice round number to shoot for and i thought it would be EASILY attainable with 533cid and heads that flow about 350cfm. is my goal attainable with what i have? im starting to think that a 4.6 cobra engine might have been easier...........
You Don't Race a Dyno !!! Alot of the guys over claim to have cars making the numbers on some dyno and running 11's at the track........ Don't believe everything you see !!! Figures don't lie, but liar's can figure !!

600 HP Engine in a 3000# car = 10.00 or if your really good maybe as low as 9.50 second performance, But that is a really well tuned and optomized car.

Heavy Car like yours should get into the 11's with what you have described.
 

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LOL thanks i guess youre right, well, the 500 number at the wheels sounds nice, but really its not the most important thing to me, to be honest,is actually the MPH, any possibility of me hitting +120 (i would LOVE to hit 125 but i guess thats doubtful huh?) in the 1/4? i know it sounds like i changed my goal but i figured id need about 500RWHP to reach 120+. Oviously having that kind of power without traction is pretty much pointless, so suspension will be addresses, but id like to hit those MPH's in this boat/car
 

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if it was me I'd bump the compression up to 11:1 with that cam, although with the displacement it will likely cover up the loss in bottom end you'll see with that setup. My opinion, lower the cam duration to 252-258 range or bump the compression up. Seen a lot of otherwise great motors be disappointing because the cam was so large it had a very narrow powerband and lost all it's bottom end power which is what usually puts the grin on your face when you're driving a street car. But I could be wrong...
 

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you think bumping up 0.3 compression will make a noticeable difference? as it sits i think im pushing it for pump gas.
 

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Maurisssio , what mopar man is saying is in order for all of your parts to work together at the same time you might need to bump up the compression. Here is an example it is a video of my 466 with tfs street heads listen to the engine. When I step on it it goes to 5500rpm , it will never fall that low again during the run not even during the shift point. If it did it would bog because it was out of its powerband.

http://s168.photobucket.com/albums/u189/beccalynn75/?action=view&current=69d3530a.flv
 
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Leave it alone !!! .3 isn't worth the time especialy if you looking to keep it on pump gas. You get much more from tuning it and doing suspension work.
 

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Compression is fine.....cam looks to be ok.....What is the lobe separation? Where is the cam installed? What converter are you running? Carb may be too big.........has some big potential.....keep us posted....D
 

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Discussion Starter #13
lobe separation is 109 it will be installed straight up (4 degrees advanced) cam is by scotty @ RHP btw.
Im not sure on the converter yet but i was thinking 3000-3500
 

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Discussion Starter #14
ky mustang said:
Maurisssio , what mopar man is saying is in order for all of your parts to work together at the same time you might need to bump up the compression. Here is an example it is a video of my 466 with tfs street heads listen to the engine. When I step on it it goes to 5500rpm , it will never fall that low again during the run not even during the shift point. If it did it would bog because it was out of its powerband.

http://s168.photobucket.com/albums/u189/beccalynn75/?action=view&current=69d3530a.flv
but youre also running 70 less cubic inches.
As an example Ive driven a 350 chevy with a 10.5CR [email protected] cam and it didnt bog at low RPM's at all and torque actually felt fine,quite strong even. youre telling me than with almost 200 more inches and 18 degrees more duration and only 292CC heads im going to be bogging? wouldnt that be more of a tuning issue?
 
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Look for Posts on Greg P's Torino build. Thats a heavy tank and Goes Like hell !!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
yeah ive seen his build,id be ecstaic if my car ran like his, i believe my cam is slightly larger than his and mines a roller, but he has about 1 full point of compression and 12 cubic inches on me and about 200lbs less if i remember correctly. Also, im not sure what his heads flow but i know theyre ported Edelbrocks, ported how much exactly i dont know. I think his carb is a 1050cfm..LOL i guess ive been watching his build for a while now if i can remember all of that! plus i think he runs 122MPH in the 1/4! Dont quote me on this but i think that 122MPH was on an 850cfm 4150 carb. im not sure what hes done with the Dominator he switched to since then.....
 

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Discussion Starter #19
wow, there goes the whole "you cant overcarb a big block ford" theory, what about MPH? how much ET did he lose?
 

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The point I was trying to make is that with a cam that large most of the combinations I've seen have been over 11:1 compression. If you already have the motor set up for your current compression, I wouldn't worry too much about it. Since you already have the cam I'd run it as is, plus, since it is a roller, the duration is actually shorter than a flat tappet cam would be to get the same .050" duration numbers so you likely will be fine. I missed the roller cam part, or wasn't thinking straight at the time. I'm still of the mind that a little more compression would help, but with the price of gas I would be a little afraid too. Aluminum head motors I wouldn't be afraid of 11.5:1 compression on pump gas, especially if you make sure the heads water first. Can anybody tell me if the BBF waters through the block before the heads or heads first? If it's block first, can you run a reverse rotation water pump to reverse the flow? GM did it with their LT1 and it worked good and I know there's a plate you can buy for big mopars that will reverse the flow for the same reason. Anyway, just some thoughts
 
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