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Discussion Starter #1
Still waiting on the block to get done, figured I'd redo the trunk. Fabbed up a new 3.5 gal alum cell, plumbed in the Magnfuel prostar 500, and mounted the new Rock 16volt battery. Just need to plumb the vent and line from the pump to the regulator and should be gettin closer.


 

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Discussion Starter #3
first time, all the fans and stuff go real fast lol.

I pondered the battery deal and asked Mike Duffy what he thought was the best and this is what he told me to get. He said one of these was like 1 1/2 turbo starts. I ordered it Straight from Rock and it was like 259.00, and free shipping. The other ouch to the bank account was the charger, He also said the Moroso 12/16 volt unit was the best out there, they are near impossible to find. I did get mine today from fedx so alls good.

670.00 bucks for the set up, but I feel it was worth it. Gonna have brother pony up for one to put in the 81, hell he dont have to buy a charger lol.
 

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I am using the Turbo Starts. They were the only ones out when I bought them. I wish the Moroso charger would have been available. Be nice to have one charger that can do 12V & 16V. When I made my 5 license runs at VMP, I had to rush to get them in to be able to enter the race that night. I made 5 passes w/o charging. Data logger showed the battery voltage at a steady 16.2V. It never fluctuated. I have even forgot to kill the power from adjusting the valves for about 3 days & still started the car with no problems. As far as I am concerned a 16V battery is the only choice for a race car!!!!

So you really are switching over to gas. What made you want to go back to gas for the 529 engine????
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Charlie and Lem convinced me. I dont think my 29.5 x 10.5 tires will like all the extra torque from the alky anyway, and I think the hp would be a wash. The 306 we tore down of my brothers had a bunch of rust in the cyls etc.

Plus I forgot how easy to start and make heat they are on the petrol..........
 

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I have been thinking real hard about switching to a 16 volt battery. Is it as simply as putting the battery in? What about the lights on the gages, the line lock, trans brake, rear lights, NOS, NOS heater, electric water pump and head lights. I know the starter, electric fans, ignition 6AL crank trigger and alternator will love the extra power it's all the little things I'm worried about. :? :? :?

Hey Jon, man that looks good! You once told me to bring my car down so you can do the mini tubes and finish the cage. Well I might take you up on that after seeing your car!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Mike told me some times the little 12v bulbs in the dash lights etc blow, but all the delay boxes, solenoids etc love it. Not sure a 12v fan would live a long time if you drove it on the street a bunch.

Thanks for the compliment.

I'm ready to start putting the 529 together, its been too long in the making lol.
 
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Ok richter69.. tell me more.. MSD only need 8 volts to fire.. Fuel conditions within the cly chamber dictate the amout of voltage necessary umm lean 50k volts.. rich 20k volts.. So tell me the purpose of additional battery voltage?

If the car runs10's with 12 volts.. what will the car run with 16 volts..

Just trying to learn a lil is all..

Laters!
 

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s_stang said:
MSD only need 8 volts to fire...
Good luck getting a wizz-bang MSD 7AL3 to work on a nitrous combo correctly/consistantly limited to only 8 volts . You would have better luck getting people drinking eggnog if there was a turd in the punch bowl.....(yea I know, Christmas reference in October).


As for the 16v batteries I don't really like them. Sure some 12v stuff might spin faster on 16v, but other equipment might burn up sooner. I think 2 red top Optima 12v cells are a better idea. Even if you forget to charge them before the next round, 2 Optima's have shown that they can run all the extra electrical stuff on a nitrous car without any start/run problems.

[Edit] Jon, do you have a number of places you can hang balast bars (front & rear) to aid tuning the car for the 10.5 shoes?
 

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="D.I.L.L.I.G.A.S
I think 2 red top Optima 12v cells are a better idea. Even if you forget to charge them before the next round, 2 Optima's have shown that they can run all the extra electrical stuff on a nitrous car without any start/run problems.

I'm going with 1 Optima or equal with an alternator. I had considered the 16V route with my new dragster, but it was going to be spendy by the time I bought the battery, charger and had my alternator converted to 16V. On my old car I could go to a 2 day race and never even get out the battery charger once I switched to the alternator. I use a tiny 50 amp one wire like the ones sold by East Coast Auto Electric. It weighs 6 lbs is about the size of a large coffee cup. The 50 amp capacity is just fine for keeping a battery topped off.

It all looks very good Jon. Now, the most important question: Can that system feed a surge tank up front for when you come back to the dark side where you belong? You know----alky injection. :mrgreen:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
All I have to do is anodize the tank for alky lol.

never had much luck with the red tops, I used a motorcraft lead acid for ever and ever, just wanted to free up some room on the motor plate by deleting the alternator and stuff. Mike Duffy builds and tunes some of the fastest heads up cars on the planet, I trust his opinion, this is what he told me to get so I did lol. I do have room to add ballast if needed.
 
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