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Discussion Starter #1
I thought now that I have quite racing the truck I would post the final engine build.
1979 F150 Lariat supercab 2wd weighs 4,540lbs (weighed on certified scales) Engine also had well over 180,000 if not 200,000 miles.
Cylinder compression test 120-124lbs

1979 factory stock 460 (heads have never been unbolted)
1970 timing chain
Edlebrock performer intake
Custom Cam from RHP Lcs 110.5 Intake dur 217 lift .520 Exh dur 223.6 lift .518 (with PEP valve springs and new hyd lifters)
1-3/4 headman headers
3" mandral bent exhaust, Summit x-pipe and 3" Dynomax Bullets (Some say it sounded like a Dodge Viper v10 and others though a Diesel it howled)
2” 4 hole plastic spacer
Holley 4150 850 dp
Ford recurved distributor from RHP
MSD 6al
MSD Blaster SS coil
MSD wires
Carter CJ mechanical fuel pump
89-93 octane 36-40 degrees of timing

Factory C6
2,600 stahl converter (Ford converter re stalled) from RHP
Broader shift kit, 3rd stage

Factor 3:50 rear gear
Summit racing Mini spool
29x9R15 Mickey Thompson Drag Radials
Mickey Thompson 15x10 wheels

Ran a best 1/8 mile et 8.82 @75mph with a 1.80 60ft
That’s some where around 325-350 fwhp
Drove it too and from the track every time, weekends and to work on pretty days.





 

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Thank You from a begining budget builder!
My question is how important do you feel compression is on a budget build? It looks like you were making pretty good power with 7.9:1?
Everyone pushes for at least 9-9.5:1. How much is left on the table when you stick with low compression and 87 octane?

I am starting a similar build based on what you and others have done with close to stock compression. But before I start, I want to make sure I will be satisfied with the results. If I need to wait and build a 9.5:1 motor, I will. But in a street only car, do I have to have 9:1?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The more compression the better IMO.

I mainly wanted to show folks what you can do without doing a complete engine rebuild. Just adding parts as you go with what you have.
Although I think it would have been fun if, I had just zero decked the block, new rings, bearings and a little port work. Would have really woke this engine up.
 

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Jones:

That's pretty impressive to run 8.80's and a 1.80 60 ft with your truck.

Interesting info. I want to run 8.80s with my 4500 lb 94 Lightning, but it has a 351W. The best I got out of it was a 9.88 at 70.9 mph . (stock)

 

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Discussion Starter #5
One of the best improvements I made was the 2,600 stall converter, shift kit and mini spool. It started pulling at 2,400 but flashed to 2,600. The reason I went mini spool was only due to money. I would have put a detroit locker but couldn't justifi the cost.
I just started replacing worn parts and try to make good performance guesses. The thing I learned was to be honest with your self and what you are working with. This truck was a big heavy barn door.

That really made a differance, from a normal old truck to a old performance truck!

Oh, one other trick I used suspension wise was. Go buy the stiffiest shocks you can for the rear. I went and bought some extra heavy duty shocks and never had the first problem with tire hop.

I just can't wait to get this turbocharged engine built.


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Discussion Starter #7
It was a lot of fun! I kinda wish now that I still had it running. Can you believe it that the first time I took the truck down the 1/8mile it ran a 14sec et???

Out ran pleanty of Mustangs.




 

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Discussion Starter #10
Man, I don't know?

I basicly bought the cheapest parts. There was somethings that I splearged on like the MSD Blaster SS coil, MSD wires, Mickey Thompson Wheels and Drag radials.

I will try to come-up with a price on some stuff but not exact by any means.

Without the Carb, radiator, electric fan, Shroud, ARP bolt kit, timing cover, shocks, gauges, drag wheels & tires fiqured in I would say $1,600.

I never really realized I spent that much because everytime I bought something I limited it too $300-250 stages. I didn't do all of this at one time. I started messing with the truck in 04.

First thing I did was swap intakes and carb.
Then a bunch of weight reduction.
Installed the mini spool
Changed the radiator out.
Cam, lifters, valvesprings, timing chain, MSD ignition and distrubutor
Headers, x-pipe, Dynomax bullets and piping
Transmission rebuild with the shift kit and converter.
Brakes (lost them when I went to stop at the end of the track. I might would move them towards one of the first things next time.)
Rear extra heavy duty shocks and front bushings
Complete new power steering system box to outers
Now take all apart and try to sell truck! :lol: :cry:

I didn't add the $400 to rebuild the C6. So add that to the 1,600 if you want.
 

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Jones, did the Hedmans fit your truck pretty well? I had the L&L's and they hung too low for my tastes so I pulled them.
Do you remember the part number for your headers?
Thanks
Clint
 

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this sound like what i am looking for if i had this setup in my firenza coupe {vauxhall} what sort of 1/4 mile should i expect to see the car is 900kg with 460 installed and as i dont have the money at the mo for a full engine rebuild thanks mark
 

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Discussion Starter #16
markrigby said:
this sound like what i am looking for if i had this setup in my firenza coupe {vauxhall} what sort of 1/4 mile should i expect to see the car is 900kg with 460 installed and as i dont have the money at the mo for a full engine rebuild thanks mark
Depends, how much does your car weigh?
 

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