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Discussion Starter #1
I now have my car gutted. The rubberized/tar crap all scraped up off the floor pans (what a pain that was) and now I'm getting ready to weld in the 12 point cage. My question is what is the best way to get the windshield out?? Does Autozone rent a tool to do this or is there a cheap one to buy?? I obviously want it to go back in later so I thought I would ask the guys that have done this before. Thanks in advance!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
poke a piece of .035 mig wire through the glue and use it as a saw ,takes a bit of work but will work
Frank
I poked a piece of some kind of wire through and tried and it kept breaking. I didn't think about trying the welding wire. Good thinking!! And that will be waaayyyy cheaper than Autozone. Afterall... I got more time than money. Thanks Frank! I'll give it a shot.
 

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I just happen to have some braided Trilene and Spider wire. That would kind of make sense. It would be more abrasive anyway. Maybe even some welding wire pulled through along with a couple of strands of the braided fishing line. I'll post back tomorrow and let you know...
 

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i got a better idea////throw a rock through the windshield of your daily driver. when the glass guy is out there putting in a new one flip him a 20 for some side work. of course a glass package with your insurance is a must...lol, j/k of course bobn
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'm not sure if this is the original windshield or not but this thing is proving to be impossible to remove. I've busted all kinds of .035 welding wire trying to get through it. I put a 120,000 btu heater right up close to the windshield to try to warm everything up so I can cut through the sealer easier. No dice.. I haven't even been able to pull the welding wire 1/2 inch through the sealer. It also looks like somebody went back over the top of the seal with regular clear silicone at one time. I'm thinking somebody has done something crazy when they put a new windshield in.

Any more suggestions other than call a glass place? I'm betting this thing doesnt' come out in one piece.
 

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Welding paper and masking tape and leave it alone.;) Tack weld main hoop in then tack the halo in and then put some heavy tacks on the front uprights, break the tacks holding the halo onto main hoop tip the front uprights and halo assembly down and weld solid then put it back up to main hoop and weld that solid. The reason I say to tack the main hoop is because you will certainly need it to move to break the tacks to be able to drop the halo down for welding (been there). Getting the main hoop and halo is definitely a 2 person job (I hate when the halo falls and hits me in the head;)).
 

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Welding paper and masking tape and leave it alone.;) Tack weld main hoop in then tack the halo in and then put some heavy tacks on the front uprights, break the tacks holding the halo onto main hoop tip the front uprights and halo assembly down and weld solid then put it back up to main hoop and weld that solid. The reason I say to tack the main hoop is because you will certainly need it to move to break the tacks to be able to drop the halo down for welding (been there). Getting the main hoop and halo is definitely a 2 person job (I hate when the halo falls and hits me in the head;)).
Sounds like words of wisdom from experience!! Actually I like that idea alot. It means that I have one less thing to do (or at this point pay for). The first time the welding wire broke I almost did a back flip because I was pulling on the thing so hard. It wasn't a total back flip but I did bust my a$$!!

....if at first you don't succeed. Fail, fail again!!

Thanks for the tip. If that doesn't work out I'll go for the suggestion before your and break out the cam hammer!!
 

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Yeah I found out the hard way on them Mustangs, other than having to run outriggers the nice thing about doing ttrucks is the cage drops through the floor so it makes them easier to fully weld the top of the cage, as long as you don't weld in the outriggers first (don't ask how I figured that out, LOL).
 

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Discussion Starter #12
How do you know?? ...just kidding.

With any luck I'll be welding this weekend. The underside of the car and engine bay is all cleaned and painted I'm going to try your trick. At this point I guess I'd rather not take the windshield out. I do have the doors off so that should make it a little eaiser. Scraping the black tar matt crap off the floor was miserable. That is one of the worst things to do ever!

My wheels and tires got here today. I know you were right (or at least I hope you were). Those MT Streets are big. But I'm sure I'll get them up in the stock wheel wells. The wheels sure are pretty. Or at least they are shiny! I can't wait the get them on the car and see what it looks like.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
You could cut holes in the floor so you can drop the cage down to get to the welds. Then pull the cage back up and slide the reinforcing plates under. That's how dad put the cage in his fairmont wagon. Just don't forget to paint the bars before pulling the cage up.
I thought about that as well. I'll see how hard it is going to be to get to the top pieces. I may try to do that. But that will be a last resort.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
OK.. I finally decide to leave the windshield alone and not take it out because it was just being too difficult. So I go out there tonight to work on it. And then I see on the opposite side of the windshield from where I was working on it an 8 inch crack running down the windshield from the top. I mean W.T.F?? Really??


....regular price, $250 bucks, $250 bucks.

I should have taken up needle point instead. Sometimes this hobby SUCKS!!
 

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Music wire works awesome......Me and my dad pulled hundreds of windsheilds with it...poke it through and wrap it around a wooden dowel.....saw away
 
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