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Thanks for the reply. I havent gotten the Thumpr cam yet - so I guess you are recommending a custom cam with more LSA - thanks. This is a custom grind, I will see who can help me on this one.

Overlap is dangerous for turbo cams apparently as backfire can occur...

 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Can you give me some input on your thoughts about crank stud girdles? Have you put them in? 2 bolt block?
I have not bothered on any motor I’ve done. There’s dudes out there running big power on 2 bolt blocks. If your bottom end is balanced right, caps aligned, good main cap fasteners. You will be fine, girdle is not necessary.
You can run one of it helps you sleep at night, but not needed.
 

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Using a bolt and no stud girdle allows a certain amount of cap walk on a production block. This cap walk has been shown to be tolerable/beneficial when higher than intended power levels are reached.
 

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Unless a main stud girdle is flat against machined flat main caps is it nothing more than jewelry.
The main caps flex in the middle.
Fretting is normal and usually takes a set. We leave it as is.

OEM bolts fit the caps better than ARP bolts OR studs which we do NOT use unless the mail caps are doweled.

Most stud girdles are good for keeping all of the caps together when you blow the bottom end out of the engine lol...







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Thanks Madporter for the reply. Really appreciated. There is quite a bit of controversy around the girdles, I understood the points made here I think.

I suppose a 2-bolt block with the original bolts and the original caps is good for 600hp?

Thanks
 

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You should give this article a read… while there’s is definitely power to be made, if you’re racing and want every 10th of a second to count then go right ahead. But for a street car where I just don’t want to deal with fitment issues and a big price tag cj manifolds will do the job.
I have experienced some set backs with the reverse rotation pumps and 4.7 output blowers.Since lysholm went to extruded from sand cast,no top carb pads.For street use(good idle with the air on)I had good mixture results with a nich brand big *** holley.One of their subs is making a 1050 standard flange.Pro form is selling anular booster sleeves.The hard part is making everything fit in a 69 mustang,WITH the stock clutch fan.The easy part was the distributor move.Either belt drive or right angle.I should have it really hard to destroy by june.Depends on sweden cutting loose some more blowers.
 

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1931 Model A Blown 532ci 6-71
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Gets dynoed Friday, curious how she’s gonna do
View attachment 93154
I would love to know the pully you used for your water pump. I have a 532 with a 6-71 and the blower belt runs the water pump also. I have the double v belt crank pulley as you do, but can't seem to picture how I can separate the water pump from the blower belt as I don't think I can go into the motor any more for lack of belt clearance. Thought about electric, but I would rather stay belt.
 

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Reverse rotation water pump.They were never made out side of my shop.Even when ford had reverse rotation motors for boats.They got by with constant low lake water temp.I do not sell information.If you have done due dilligence in your research to ask a pointed question ,I will do my best answer.Since we are there,I cut the sleeve,dual keyed the crank,slid the damper back,THEN bolted on the blower drive.Also I made an in house seven inch off set distributor driver.You can get a 4h prize pig quality one from swartz,but you can't watch the belt spin.Like on my hog,(130ci W/kompressor car blower)I am entertained by watching the belt.JK can make you a water pump pulley.I have no idea how much.I make them in house.By the way,you may want to switch belt styles.One of the ways cog belts die and take there friends along with them is self tightening. Hydroplaning,Or to be precise aeroplaning.Like the side siepes on tires you need to let the air out.A(blood groove)in each tooth root will augment the action.You may lose you mind cutting all those grooves.A switch to serpintine looks better to me. If longevity of your parts figures into your build equation.Build your ac/alt mounts,your damper is freed up for that,nice compact system.
 

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I would love to know the pully you used for your water pump. I have a 532 with a 6-71 and the blower belt runs the water pump also. I have the double v belt crank pulley as you do, but can't seem to picture how I can separate the water pump from the blower belt as I don't think I can go into the motor any more for lack of belt clearance. Thought about electric, but I would rather stay belt.
I would love to know the pully you used for your water pump. I have a 532 with a 6-71 and the blower belt runs the water pump also. I have the double v belt crank pulley as you do, but can't seem to picture how I can separate the water pump from the blower belt as I don't think I can go into the motor any more for lack of belt clearance. Thought about electric, but I would rather stay belt.
I should also mention that once you get to warp speed pressure,the exhaust pushrod takes a bad beating.The true terror guys go all the way up to half inch diameter.Three eight does for us gas guys.You should not have to remodel the head,depending on lift.I also have some horroribly rebuilt w/p's.p,boys,kragens,chief.Small block impellers,END play,wrong height.May wanna get out your fine measuring stick,before you start having parts made.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Crank, water pump, alt, and ps are all CVF pulleys. I ran the blower belt out to the very edge in order to gain as much space as possible from the v-belts
Ended up working out fine for me

ifthat doesn’t work for you,
I would love to know the pully you used for your water pump. I have a 532 with a 6-71 and the blower belt runs the water pump also. I have the double v belt crank pulley as you do, but can't seem to picture how I can separate the water pump from the blower belt as I don't think I can go into the motor any more for lack of belt clearance. Thought about electric, but I would rather stay belt.
 

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1931 Model A Blown 532ci 6-71
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I went out and looked at it again.....With how far the v belts are tucked back towards the damper I don't see any way for either of the belts to go straight up to catch the water pump as it would hit the radiator return hose off the pump. Both of the v belts go to the passenger side (power steering and Alternator). I think I may know why it is done the way it is. Also the clearance to the radiator is limited so I can't get creative and pull everything further off the motor. It works the way it is, but I would love the gilmer belt to be the typical way free of accessories.
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Discussion Starter · #33 · (Edited)
ok I see. My setup is a bit different. First my blower pulley is shimmed out further (won’t work in your scenario. 3v crank pulley + blower crank pulley, 2v water pulley.

Can you run the tensioner on the opposite side? in order to achieve proper rotation of water pump? Just spitballing here



I went out and looked at it again.....With how far the v belts are tucked back towards the damper I don't see any way for either of the belts to go straight up to catch the water pump as it would hit the radiator return hose off the pump. Both of the v belts go to the passenger side (power steering and Alternator). I think I may know why it is done the way it is. Also the clearance to the radiator is limited so I can't get creative and pull everything further off the motor. It works the way it is, but I would love the gilmer belt to be the typical way free of accessories. View attachment 93835 View attachment 93836
 

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you put the water pump on the blower belt.I made a set up where the damper just clears the timing cover.But you have to run the alt lower to tuck it back.16 rib belts are a common item.Takes a bunch of vibration out of the system.The harmonic the gilmer sets up.sometimes destroys electrical connections,kills gauges,and makes you butt itch on extended drives.How much pressure are you building or your street ride?You may want to look at electric column steering.The purpose of my exercise was to get the whole thing in a 69 mustang with a stock fan.I am seeing plenty of talent on that build.Lexus has/had ps driven fans.might want to look at using their driver to run your pump.You did say you had ps?I have not made spare pumps for sale, reverse flow.You can switch to an early pump.The long time concern becomes the crank bending/walking and the front bearing giving up.I would like to see you make a power tour and have fun, or 100k mileage on your stuff.Most people just drag race this stuff,so you can get by with high maintenance parts.
 

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1931 Model A Blown 532ci 6-71
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ok I see. My setup is a bit different. First my blower pulley is shimmed out further (won’t work in your scenario. 3v crank pulley + blower crank pulley, 2v water pulley.

Can you run the tensioner on the opposite side? in order to achieve proper rotation of water pump? Just spitballing here
Looking at your pic I see you have more room behind the gilmer. I haven't totally given up yet. Like I said, it does work well the way it is, but.......You know how it is, always screwing around with it. I may be able to get a bigger pully for the water pump as if the tensioner was on the other side the belt may not have constant contact with the water pump pully the way it is now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Looking at your pic I see you have more room behind the gilmer. I haven't totally given up yet. Like I said, it does work well the way it is, but.......You know how it is, always screwing around with it. I may be able to get a bigger pully for the water pump as if the tensioner was on the other side the belt may not have constant contact with the water pump pully the way it is now.
Sorry, when i was replying to everything last night i had just got off of a plane flight and wasn’t really thinking clearly. Now i understand is your system works fine now but you’re not a fan of the glimmer pulley for a water pump. Have you tried just installing a 1v water pump pulley to see if it can work with your alt belt? Looks possible from the photos you attatched. May be a squeeze but i feel like it will clear water outlet hose. May be worth buying a cheap pulley To test fit.
And if it doesn’t work with the v belt, just put the glimmer back on 🤷‍♂️.
 

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True.....I will have to take the measurement from the face of the pump to the centerline of the belt to see. Maybe I can contact CVF to see what their pulleys measure. I know all the stock replacement I've seen doesn't have enough throw towards the motor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
True.....I will have to take the measurement from the face of the pump to the centerline of the belt to see. Maybe I can contact CVF to see what their pulleys measure. I know all the stock replacement I've seen doesn't have enough throw towards the motor.
gotcha, i dont have the motor anymore to reference anything (sold it). here is a picture i have of the 2v CVF water pump pulley attatched. It goes pretty far back
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Looks like I lack 1/2" or so even with the FE pully they have at 2.6" depth. Guess I will either go electric or leave it as is. Probably as is.
 
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