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We recommend that our clients running roller cams with STEEL distributor gears run a high zinc BREAK IN style oil, gibbs grease on the cams distributor drive gear and distributor gear. We do so when breaking in an engine on the dyno. 5 to 10 minutes at 1500 to 2000 rpm.

The roller lifter wheels still have to run in with the cam lobes.
The pushrods have to run in with the pushrod cups and roller rockers.

Etc etc...







Scotty J. "AKA" The "Mad Porter"
"EMC 2006" 3rd place finisher
Ported BBF iron head specialist & Aluminum heads from all sources.
Custom ground cams
See our products in the Vendor for sale section
Customized crate engines
ParklandAutoMachine.com
R-H-P.biz
"Parkland Performance Auto Machine" Formerly RHP
(253)-988-6648
Parkland Auto Machine
 

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Never had issues on a roller, even on the sprint car engines in 14 years.
Were you running steel distributor gears?

They ( melonized steel on 6120-50-60 billet) require a specific break in period as noted above.
Especially relevant if running a high volume or high pressure oil pump.







Scotty J. "AKA" The "Mad Porter"
"EMC 2006" 3rd place finisher
Ported BBF iron head specialist & Aluminum heads from all sources.
Custom ground cams
See our products in the Vendor for sale section
Customized crate engines
ParklandAutoMachine.com
R-H-P.biz
"Parkland Performance Auto Machine" Formerly RHP
(253)-988-6648
Parkland Auto Machine
 

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Were you running steel distributor gears?

They ( melonized steel on 6120-50-60 billet) require a specific break in period as noted above.
Especially relevant if running a high volume or high pressure oil pump.







Scotty J. "AKA" The "Mad Porter"
"EMC 2006" 3rd place finisher
Ported BBF iron head specialist & Aluminum heads from all sources.
Custom ground cams
See our products in the Vendor for sale section
Customized crate engines
ParklandAutoMachine.com
R-H-P.biz
"Parkland Performance Auto Machine" Formerly RHP
(253)-988-6648
Parkland Auto Machine
No, steel gears can get you in trouble, I only use composits in my 427 Cobra engines and sprint cars. I also only use standard flow oil pumps.
I do know a long time engine builder that recommends zinc formulated oils for all applications. I don't know about that idea, but he's like 61 yrs old, I'm only 60. 😅
 

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1990 Ford Mustang LX 351M powered!! Project Cherry Bomb!!
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Agree with Scott. Steel, or other distributor gears aside you still have a lot of new surfaces that are new to each other and need to seat in with each other if a new engine break-in is to be successful. The proper oil still needs to be used.
 

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Break in oil has a fast acting zinc package with lower detergent.

Simply adding ZDDP to any modern shelf oil is asking for trouble. Adding more zinc to any proper flat tappet hot rod oil is asking for trouble.
We've had several clients with new cams and notched lifters. The very few break in failure our clients have suffered all have the above in common.

Use the right oil.
Valvoline VR is a typically available shelf oil fine AFTER break in.

P.S.

We routinely break in dual spring flat tappet cam engines on the dyno with Gibbs Driven BR oil. NEVER A FAILURE.
Starts immediately, notched lifters for additional oiling from the top down and proper oil for break in.

DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME !!!

Simply an extreme example of what you can do with the right procedure, hard parts, assembly products and oils.







Scotty J. "AKA" The "Mad Porter"
"EMC 2006" 3rd place finisher
Ported BBF iron head specialist & Aluminum heads from all sources.
Custom ground cams
See our products in the Vendor for sale section
Customized crate engines
ParklandAutoMachine.com
R-H-P.biz
"Parkland Performance Auto Machine" Formerly RHP
(253)-988-6648
Parkland Auto Machine
 

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Registered
Joined
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363 Posts
Break in oil has a fast acting zinc package with lower detergent.

Simply adding ZDDP to any modern shelf oil is asking for trouble. Adding more zinc to any proper flat tappet hot rod oil is asking for trouble.
We've had several clients with new cams and notched lifters. The very few break in failure our clients have suffered all have the above in common.

Use the right oil.
Valvoline VR is a typically available shelf oil fine AFTER break in.

P.S.

We routinely break in dual spring flat tappet cam engines on the dyno with Gibbs Driven BR oil. NEVER A FAILURE.
Starts immediately, notched lifters for additional oiling from the top down and proper oil for break in.

DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME !!!

Simply an extreme example of what you can do with the right procedure, hard parts, assembly products and oils.







Scotty J. "AKA" The "Mad Porter"
"EMC 2006" 3rd place finisher
Ported BBF iron head specialist & Aluminum heads from all sources.
Custom ground cams
See our products in the Vendor for sale section
Customized crate engines
ParklandAutoMachine.com
R-H-P.biz
"Parkland Performance Auto Machine" Formerly RHP
(253)-988-6648
Parkland Auto Machine
"'Valvoline VR is a typically available shelf oil fine AFTER break in''.

What other high grade oil company's have zink in them ?
Do you use the exact same oil with zink after the break in ?
I have a dealer close to me and will call him, but how much is these oils ?
 

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A good break in oil has all of the "stuff" in it that it needs, why **** with a winning combination.

Oils like Lucas Hot Rod are engineered for "hot rods". What constitutes a "hot rod" in this context i have no idea but i know its not a 2018 Coyote or a 2014 EcoBoost. DO NOT add additives to try to up the zinc or any other component of an oil designed for say a "vintage" engine. Trust the people with the double PHD's in oil mixology.

Gibbs, Brad Penn, Lucas, Royal Purple, Amsoil, Shaffers, Valvoline ect...all have good products.

Then if we really want to start a fight we have dino, semi synthetic, and full synthetic to pick from.
 

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1990 Ford Mustang LX 351M powered!! Project Cherry Bomb!!
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This all reminds me of the old commercials with the guy who says "Motor oil is motor oil...." Yup .. you can try to skimp a nickel or two on the oil you choose now, on break-in, how often you change it, or..... On tearing it all down again, flushing out alllllllll the pretty expensive metal flake that's splattered all through out the engine, buying new parts like a new cam, lifters, bearings, pistons, and rockers. Then trying it all over again to try and learn from the first, second or third time, that they should have spent the $$$$ on the correct motor oil the first time....
 
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