BREAK IN OIL

Fairlane62 said:

All good points, but the OP asked what weight oil he should use. That would be determined by bearing clearances.

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This is one of many posts the OP has created about his NEW build.

It appears that answers were offered with the entirety of his posts taken into account.










Scotty J. "AKA" The "Mad Porter"
"EMC 2006" 3rd place finisher
Ported BBF iron head specialist & Aluminum heads from all sources.
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I'm not going to put break in oils down and I use them, but back in 1979 I started helping a neighbor race his dirt late model with a solid roller 460cid engine. He helped me build a solid roller 468cid in my first car a Pro-Street Camaro. I built two other cars then we started racing 360 dirt wing sprint cars and twice per year we raced two 410 world of outlaw races. Other than the 410's which we leased, we never use break in oil, I don't think they were even made back then. And we never,....lost the valve train and rings due to not breaking motors in the ''old school way''. Sometimes there was a tiny bit of aluminum in the filters, but not enough to be concerned about. The second biggest advise, use a good filter....change your oil often,...often. But the same way exists today, just don't fire it up and smash the go pedal to impress the girls, cause it sounds cool. 😎

ArnoldRC said:

Break in oil should come out after....oh I don't know...maybe the break in period?? Flat tappet engines should get ZDDP additive for life thereafter. And I'm not sure who you're calling a grease monkey.

Also, be careful breaking engines in on a dyno, no engine load is recommended. Which begs the question, why one would even mention a chassis dyno?

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Breaking in the cam on the engine dyno is a no load deal excepting the occasional throttle snap.
We use notched lifters exclusively so no splash is needed.

Seating the rings is another matter. WOT @ 600 rpm per second from below peak torque to near peak hp twice usually gets rid of the blue smoke lol.

It typically takes about 3 to 4 full power pulls to get proper ring seal and best torque.
Alternately loading then unloading under vacuum helps seat the rings and then send the wear particles out of the exhaust port.

Our engines leave with Gibbs Driven BR oil. I typically recommend that the client change after sorting out the install and a short drive. 100 ish miles.

We check the oil for crap before the engine leaves.









Scotty J. "AKA" The "Mad Porter"
"EMC 2006" 3rd place finisher
Ported BBF iron head specialist & Aluminum heads from all sources.
Custom ground cams
See our products in the Vendor for sale section
Customized crate engines
ParklandAutoMachine.com
R-H-P.biz
"Parkland Performance Auto Machine" Formerly RHP
(253)-988-6648
Parkland Auto Machine

4x4man514 said:

so i know im hijacking a little bit but im going through the same thing and im terrified im gonna wipe my cam again.

i need to run the joe gibbs br30wt with or without additive?

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Run BR 30 without additives.

modest spring pressures and starting immediately help.









Scotty J. "AKA" The "Mad Porter"
"EMC 2006" 3rd place finisher
Ported BBF iron head specialist & Aluminum heads from all sources.
Custom ground cams
See our products in the Vendor for sale section
Customized crate engines
ParklandAutoMachine.com
R-H-P.biz
"Parkland Performance Auto Machine" Formerly RHP
(253)-988-6648
Parkland Auto Machine

Zinc still works but is obsolete these days, as better replacements for anti-scuffing/galling have been developed, most of them polymer-based. Unfortunately, they go under many proprietary names, so they're hard to find. In chatting with an oil engineer many years ago, he tipped me onto how to find them, which is using ACEA ratings. I began using the ACEA A3/B3 oils for flat tappets years ago, and now it's like why not in everything? So, that's my go-to after break-in. No more zinc hype for me for many years now.

Yes, break-in lubes and oils for break-in, oil and filter change to ACEA A3/B3 or A3/B4 after break-in (max 30 minutes and cut the filter), and at 500 miles again (street). Agreed on Scotty's basic procedures, and I've been using notched lifters (I call them scored for how I prep them) for almost 20 years now.

I also do the cam run-in, but get the loading on it before the end of that first run. All that machine prep and cross-hatch is to allow for parts to quickly wear together for form-fit, and they can't do that loafing over each other. Unfortunately, the cross-hatch wears down whether you load it or not, so you only have a limited run-time to get the load on it and seat everything for best seal and fit. You can measure the better sealing of a loaded break-in with a leak-down test, even many miles later.

If I pull springs to lower the lobe pressure, I just don't hit high rpm on the loading. It doesn't need rpm as much as it needs load to seat everything. Of course, that's just me, and you need to do whatever you think you should for your engines. Have fun!