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broke crank

2181 Views 14 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  David Cole
hey guys,

had an issue with my 528 reciently. The crankshaft broke off foward of the #1 piston. I guess either the balanceweight wasn't balanced or fatigue from the belts broke my peice of shat crank. I was thinking of putting it back together with a stock 460 crank out of my 460efi i have sitting in the garage...would like to use my stock connecting rods too but I am not sure how to seperate them from the pistons??? I wanna fix this motor kinda cheap, and start on another one. The cam in it is very mild, 495 lift.... and it has a torqer 2 intake on it with some ported procomp heads. I would like to fix it with a good crank and have a decent motor and then start fresh on spending some money on the next one and do it right. What do you guys think about how to fix this one ???

p.s. I think this was an eagle crank
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Be sure you find out what broke it before putting it back together.
Is the crankshaft broken at an angle or straight across the journal?

Are there no signs of any other occurrances in the cylinder area or combustion chamber to enlarge the crankshaft break possibility?
It didn't break at the journal, it broke off at the counterweight foward of the journal. There is no torsional load from the poshrods at the location it broke. It broke due to the reasons I stated above. What I wanted is some advice on is my options for fixing it.
the OEM crank with OEM conn rods will be fine. Just make sure the journals are good and have the rods checked and/or resized. Your local engine builder should be able to take the pistons off the rods for you.
Awesome.... I was looking at them stock rods and couldn't see how to get them off. I assume I will lose some low end torque but it should still run better then the stock. Depending on the wrist pin location of the pistons that are currently installed I might be able to use those with my stock rods??
the pistons used with your 528 will not work for you with your stock rods.
compression height wrong, most likely pin diameter too.
Proly be cheaper and or easier to buy a new stroker kit to put in that block after it gets a thorough checking. Saw some for sale in the for sale section at very good prices.:D
i'm not interested in buying another cheap cast china made crank......
how to fix it? take it to a machine shop. and they will either fix it or tell you to buy a new one. don't buy the cheap one from china zone.
yea, i am gonna tear it down and checks things. then get a new crank and balancer / bearings.

what I wanna know is what kinda of crank to get, a quality one. I am not spinning more then 6,000. I don't think I need a billet.... but I don't know what the good brands are. Ford racing has a cast one with a 4.30 stroke for sale... 375$.... kinda cheap, that worries me.
Talk to Adney about a forged Scat piece. They balance good without much if any mallory and the price is reasonable.

As far as I know most of the cast deals end up costing more to balance, at least internal balance deals to the point that you could almost buy the forged version for the same total price.

what brand name was the crank thsat b roke? Eagle makes a good cast 4.3 crank, as well as a forged unit.
I would like to see a pic of the crank? what brand was it?

The same thing happened to a buddy of mine a couple of weeks ago. Eagle cast 4.15 stroke.

on page three of this thread:

It broke just behind the front counterweight. I've seen several cast stroker cranks break. They all seem to go just behind the front CW or on the 3/7 journal. I thinks it's soem kind of harmonics thing.

I broke a Scat cast 4.500 crank two years ago in my dragster at 6800 rpm and 140+. Fun ride. It snapped the 3/7 rod journal off clean.
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