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Discussion Starter #1
Installed the bronze distributor gear today during lunch. It was pretty easy considering my friend from KRS machining was helping: KRS means Kiss ouR *** Machining LOL :shock: - He has a sign and everything :lol:

I measured the distance of the old gear to the end of the shaft as a reference point

Knocked the old pin out with a punch and then pressed off the old gear.

Per MSD's instructions, I rotated the new bronze gear 90degrees from the original hole (Why couldn't they make this simple) and then pressed on the new bronze gear. Checked the distance and we were 0.010" off :roll: so I applied 0.010" of pressure to the gear with the press :lol:

I was just going to set it up in the bridgeport endmill and drill the 0.125" hole through the shaft using the gear as a guide but my buddy Kelly wanted to get fancy so he set it up in his CNC Mill :idea: and took a reference off of a 0.125" broken bit sticking out of the bronze gear where the roll pin goes and then drilled it with the CNC 8)

knocked the new roll pin through......... And that's the rest of the story

Easy as pie! :)



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Discussion Starter #3
466fox said:
What kind of roll pin did you use? I have sheared three off this year, I don't mean to hi-jack the thread, Is there a hardened pin for this?
I used the pin that came with the gear. Kelly and I were talking AFTER we had pinned the gear "What if we double pinned it" thus drilling a hole in the gear where the original hole is in the distributor. Would this help?

In order to put the other hole in the gear we would need to remove the gear and then measure where the hole is located compared to the hole we just drilled. Hope I didn't confuse you :wink:



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PIN-GEAR

Damon, for what it's worth, is what I have done in the past is double pin as you said but---put a smaller pin inside the reg-pin, this worked for me. not drill two holes, Ed. :wink:
 

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Phantasea466 said:
Kelly and I were talking AFTER we had pinned the gear "What if we double pinned it" thus drilling a hole in the gear where the original hole is in the distributor. Would this help?
i think this would make the shaft very weak in the area where the holes are.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Fordtek1 said:
Phantasea466 said:
Kelly and I were talking AFTER we had pinned the gear "What if we double pinned it" thus drilling a hole in the gear where the original hole is in the distributor. Would this help?
i think this would make the shaft very weak in the area where the holes are.
I would tend to agree however it already has the hole in the shaft so why not use it as well? The MSD instructions specifiy to drill a hole 90degrees from the original hole and the hole for the bronze gear is offset from the hole for the original gear so theoretically one could use two pins that cross in the middle :?:

Ed,

Good idea! What type/size pin did you put inside the roll pin?



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PIN

Never checked, I have a tray of all sizes, I've always done this with excellant results, ever what pin I used than find the smaller size, it does have to be drove in so it's plenty tight :roll: , DO-NOT,,,do this if your using it for a sher-pin, it at least doubles the strengh. Ed. :shock:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Re: solid pin

466fox said:
I was thinking of having a solid pin made, but maybe putting another inside will do the trick.
I believe you are right. I still have my dizzy in the truck so I'll check with KRS Machining :lol: and see if he has a pin to go inside the roll pin.

Edit: Spoke with Kelly and I'm going to bring the distributor back in after lunch. I informed Kelly about the pin inside the pin and he agreed that would work but he's not busy so he wants to put the other pin in the gear :lol:

We can locate the original hole in the distributor shaft by measuring off of the old gear so in essence we can double pin it using the new hole we just drilled for the bronze gear and then installing a pin into the original hole that is 90 degrees and offset from the new hole, confused yet :roll: :?: :wink: Once we locate where the hole is in the shaft we just need to drill the hole(s) in the gear....... Like BUTTER 8)

Once finished, I'll take a picture and show you guys :idea:



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double pinning a distributor gear.

Just a thought but wouldn't you want the pin to shear off instead of something else breaking. I just went through my distributor lock up somewhere in the shaft and it sheared off the pin. I am glad it was just the pin. If it was double pinned would that have ruined something else?????
 

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I too have used pins from McMaster Carr. Except the ones I used were the hardened solid pins. I just bought a box of them.

Bret
 

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Fordtek1 said:
Phantasea466 said:
Kelly and I were talking AFTER we had pinned the gear "What if we double pinned it" thus drilling a hole in the gear where the original hole is in the distributor. Would this help?
i think this would make the shaft very weak in the area where the holes are.

I have mine opened up to use a 3/16 roll pin, in 6 years I've never had a problem.
 

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The critical dimension is ...

the distance from the bottom of the gear to the upper block hold-down surface (assumign that the stock dist was correct). The important thing is to measure the distance, in the block, from the gear thrust surface (about 6" down in block) to the top dist housing hold-down clamping surface. The distributor has some clearance axially (up & down) and this measured distance must be within this range. If the gear is too high, it wont cont the block thrust surface and alot more loading will be placed on the roll pin(s). If the gear is too low, this will push the gear hard against the block when you clamp the housing down, wearing or breaking something. If the gear is properly located, and all downward thrust is on the block (not the roll pin), one 5/32 roll pin (C-type not spiral) will work fine with oil up to 50W and a high-volume oil pump in my experience. This takes some precision to measure (and tools) but is crucial in blueprinting the engine in my opinion. Steve
 

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