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Looking at 40' x 60'. Are there any engineers/designers/builders on here ?
I know I have a number of initial design decisions to make. I will say that
I'm not opposed to having internal posts to bear the roof loads, the entire
floor area doesn't need to be clear. I'm undecided as yet on a pole barn
style or conventional foundation with 2-by walls. Also undecided on wood
or metal frame and roof. Leaning towards a very simple reverse gable
roof without a lot of slope (upper storage), probably 5 doors along the
sixty-ft side. No plumbing.
Budget ? I don't know what to say. I'm inclined to go inexpensive as I can
and still have a safe structure. Doesn't need to be particularly pretty.
Eventually I will insulate it so I can heat it to a reasonable temp in cold
weather.
I live in the Seattle area, if anyone has leads for up this way.
Thanks, all!
 

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Jbr-3
I'm a draftsman in N. Dak. & have did a job in Oregon a number of years ago. Other than some seismic issues most things don't differ that much from state to state. (foundations & snow loads) Go with a slab on grade foundation as local codes permits. As for a roof a 4/12 minimun pitch should clear span 40' with no problem. Don't put posts inside, you will always regret it. With that pitch you should run into no warrenty issues on asphalt shingles or a metal roof. On a metal roof the screw fasteners are you biggest worry. Too often the rubber washers tear, crush, or spin out & you can never find the leak. PM me if you choose to go with a metal roof & I can recomend some fasteners that are better suited for roofs, that should be available in your area. 40# asphalt felt below a metal roof because of condensation issues is better. A 2x6 framed wall will cost more initialy than a pole building structure, but will be superior for insulating & structuraly stronger. I tell all my clients building garages to build 10' High Minimum side walls or always wish that you did. Last is the doors on the 60' side. You didn't give a size, but the headers will carry 1/2 the roof weight of all rafters above it. Versa-Lam headers used here will keep your doors from getting a smile on top within a couple years. Talk to a contractor or knowlagable building supply yard & they can give you more product information. Hope this helps.
Ken
 

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Having over 30 yrs experiance in building and remodeling I've seen a thing or two !
While not having posts in a small garage has it's advantages,in a 40x60 footer 2 posts @ 20ft oc are not in the way and you span them with a steel beam that can come in handy for a chain hoist.Also,a steeper pitch roof will drain better and faster and allow you to use a truss designed for attic storage.Why waste all that space.
Last of all,don't forget to put radiant heat piping in the slab,in a building that big it's always easier to heat the floor(and far more comfortable) than to heat all those cubic feet of air space.When your feet are warm so are you.
If you do it right the first time and spend what it takes you won't regret it.
 

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I'm no professional, but I designed and built my own house/shop. It started as a 40X60 with 1/3 (20X40) used as a house or apartment. I added a 22X40 lean-to to one end. This allows me to park 4 different vehicles under a roof. One bay is a drive through and the other has only one roll-up door. It is not drawn to scale, but here is a rough drawing. I plan to add another covered parking area and an outside covered fish/game cleaning area. Next to that will be a walk-in cooler and smokehouse. I can work on 3 different projects at one time (if it's cleaned up)

stephen



 

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I also plan on adding a davit crane between the 2 bays. It will be a post in the middle and will support the roof, will be able to swing out over either bay and will not really be in the way when not in use. I will anchor it to the floor and bolt it to the i-beam at the top. I forgot to mention, but above the apartment part is storage. There is about a 5 foot height in the middle.
 

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I would think hard about the "no plumbing" part, you'll probably be spending alot of time out there. I ran water, natural gas, phone and cable tv to mine. It comes in real handy being able to clean up before headin' back into the house, washing cars, hosing off parts or just topping off a radiator, even if you don't put in a bathroom I would put water out there. Good luck with the build
 

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I am no expert but I built my own 24x32 shop. It is only 50 feet from my house but I still wish I had run plumbing to it. I did run phone and digital cable though I think I'd get more work done without both. lol
I do alot of woodworking also, if you plan to do any put all of your outlets higher than 4 ft so you can lean a sheet of plywood against the wall and not block them.
I ran all my electrical so I put an outlet about every 4ft around the whole shop and at every light in the ceiling. I hate trying to find somewhere to plug something in and don't have that problem in my shop.
Clint
 

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jones said:
cougar1969 said:
One suggestion Plugs and lots of them, I will be building a new shop in the future and expect plugs every 3' can never have to many....


Randy
I agree, I even put them in the ceiling.

I agree I built a small shop in the back yard and I put plugs in the ceiling and switched them so when I need to I can plug florecent lights in them and easier to take care of...


Randy
 

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Also put in lots of air lines so you don't have to drag around air hoses.
+1 on in floor heat it is so nice to work on a heated floor.
 

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Check with your local building suppliers to see if they have a "death row".
They are usually returns from new home construction. they may not have enough at one time but you can get bundles as they become available. I just added 26 feet to the back of my 32 ft garage and purchased all the studs, 2x8, 2x10 for $cheap.

Leave enough headroom for a hoist.
 

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You could go the route I took. My shop is steel and wood. The kit came from Miracle Truss http://www.miracletruss.com/ which included all the steel, the 2x6 purlins and 2x4 side girts I got from my local lumber yard. The steel trusses are on 12ft centers and the purlins and girts are on 24" centers whick allows you to use standard batt insulation and drywall. For insulation in my shop I had a company come in a use the spray foam, best investment I ever made. I probably built about 90% of it by myself. Like others said, put plenty of electrical outlets. I put a 220v outlet above every 110v in the walls so I could move my welders and plasma cutter anywhere in the shop. Here's a few photos during the build.






 

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Doug how do you like it now that you have used it? I've looked at those buildings before wondered how they work out. How hard to put up? How was cost compared to a pole building?You've got it looking good inside.
 

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I love it :!: It took me quite a while to put up doing it by myself on my free weekends, and there were not a whole lot of them. And it's size was a big factor too, 36x48 with 12ft walls. I ordered a stock size they had on hand and got it for 14K. Once I had the shell up I slowed down and took my time on the inside.
 

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That's a nice shop Doug, it looks like it should be fairly easy to put up your self and save some cash instead of hiring someone.
 

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Nice shop Doug but what is the snow load rating on it? I am not sure about Seattle but I when I lived in Alberta the snow load rating had to be around 40#/sqft if I remember correctly.

I built my 30x30 5' away from my house and put a toilet and sink in it. I would never consider building anything without at least a sink in it. You wife we like you a lot better if you don't come in every night and make a big mess in the bathroom.

As far as plugs. I ran a 2 gang outlet every 5'. Out of those I put the left and right side on separate breakers using a common neutral arrangement. I also did each wall on separate breakers as well. There is nothing worse than working in the shop with your brother or a friend and every time you kick in two grinders it kicks the breaker. I also put the lights on a separate breaker from the outlets. This allows you to plug in a lamp or trouble light when working on the lights.

Put a boat load of lights in your attic. For your span you are going to have roof truss' every 2'. I put 6 lights in my attic and wired them to a switch on the wall. People think they will never go up there but I spent a lot more time up there then I ever thought storing parts and boxes up there.

Run conduit from outside to a low voltage panel with cable/phone etc. I also ran one conduit from this box to the attic so it is easy to run internet / cable etc anywhere in the shop as things change over the years (this is where the lights in the attic comes in).

Last but not least run speaker wires in the walls.

Everything I have mentioned is so easy to do before the drywall is up but a nightmare to do after. When I built my shop I talked to everyone I knew to ask about ideas and incorporated everyone of them.
 

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And don't forget the 220 outlet's more than one if you can. Always amazes me how some guy's don't think they need it.
 
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