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I'm kind of slow getting the pictures up & loaded, but I am making progress on the 32 Altered.

The first pic is of the bare block before taping it off for paint. I decided to paint it before assembly.

The bore on this puppy is 4.440"



Here is a photo of it all painted up nicely. Wait, just before paint... I went with black. Most Ford high performance engines of the 60's were black vs. blue. I've never been a big fan of Ford blue for an engine color anyway...



Crank Rods & Pistons are in! I went with a SCAT kit. The rods are forged H beam 6.8" long, with a 4.5" stroke forged crank. The machine shop had to cut the tops down, make an exhaust relief & make the intake relief larger. I ended up with 13.6:1 compression after all of the cutting. We started out with 14.5:1, but the valves hit the pistons & we can't have that!

I don't have a picture of the cam all buttered up & ready to install, I poked it in before I could get out the camera. It is a custom Crower roller stick with .760 lift at the valve... Should make some noise!

I have one of Paul Kane's pumps in there & this is the block that he donated to my cause after finding the 2 that I owned wouldn't be up to this task.



Here we have the motor plate all bolted up with the timing cover water pump eliminator & mount for the vac pump. Many thanks to Steve Pattee for flycutting 1/4" off of my timing cover so the bolts will line up with the front of the oil pan. I lost the holes with the motor plate!

Here is an example where the shiny stuff jacks up my picture. I wish I knew how to make it not reflect...



I screwed up drilling my manifold for this injector bung. I had to TIG weld it closed & then re-drill it. I'm pretty proud of myself. I'm not that great at welding aluminum, but this went smoothly.



Did you ever think that a Victor Dominator flange would need to be opened up? I had to open mine up to fit the RON's Terminator throttle body I'm installing. It is a 2100 CFM unit. Should flow enough... I didn't go crazy porting this manifold. I expect that I'll be looking for ways to slow the car down to make my class vs. speed it up. We'll see...



I made a block off plate for the water neck & a new mount for my fuel pump. The mount they gave me put the pump right into a frame rail! I moved it up & in a bit.



Old pump mount:



Here is a picture with the intake on, & you can see the pump mount & how it moves the pump up out of the frame rail. I need to swap valve covers. I have the vac port on the rear one now, I'd rather it be up front near the pump. I also need to make a baffle, as the one that belonged to the cover is gone. You can also see the full length Canton pan in the picture. I tried a stainless bolt kit, but had troubles getting some started, so I bought a bunch of studs & nuts. Works much better.



Chevy exhaust ports... They work well with the big Ford intakes to make power. Sam says he's going to help me make the headers...



Here you can see my first problem after I dropped the engine in. The angled bar is right where the oil filter needs to be! Choices were to either run a remote filter, or remove the offending bar. Guess what I did?



Yeah, I cut the bar. It was super tight in there. The only angle adapter that would fit was the cast PermaCool one. I wasn't keen on it, some of the BBF guys have said they can break. The nice billet unit was too thick to fit as well. Plus, I would have had a tough time mounting a filter. This way, I can screw on a full length FL-1A filter.



Here is the result. I welded in another upright & welded the angled piece to it. Makes a nice box in there for the filter to fit. This is also a problem with some of the Mopar's with an external oil pump, the Chassis engineer for Mark Williams said it was good to go:



Here you can see the limited space I have to work with. Between the fuel tank & the engine, I need to mount the coil, small gas tank, small gas pump & solenoid, vac tank, puke tank, water pump, and tranny cooler. I might put a small cooler in there for the water. I know alcohol runs fairly cool, but I want the temps to be stable, so I might run a small loop system if I can fit it.



From the front. You can see the tank behind the shell. I'm going to run a solid panel in the shell. I might run an air inlet through the front, if I can fit it. I don't have any sight room left for a scoop, so nothign will pop through the hood. Everything fastens with Dzus fasteners, so I can get the hood & shell off for easy access. The only bitch will be behind the cowl where the engine sits. I hate to cut the cowl off, but we'll see. I have to check the plugs & set the valves some how! I'm going to try it out with all of the stock sheet metal in place.

 

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Very nice work John.It's nice seeing someone fabing their own work instead of buying everything :roll: 8) That looks like my old intake. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
blown86hallet said:
I see my old BOAT part is working well for you!!! Looks good.

What's up with the guy above this post, Wife stuff .com.

86 him!!!
The boat part look good, doesn't it? Too bad I destroyed the cover I got with it trying to get the dipstick neck out! The problem I'm trying to get my head around is how to plumb those 2 water outlets to my pump. I'm trying not to spend a fortune on AN fittings!
 

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Lookin' good !
 

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Discussion Starter #13
393sixtyninemachI said:
very nice! did you buy or make those valve cover spacers? I used to race carts at the Atwater track out by the airport south of the 99, is it still there? Bob
Yes, the Atwater Kart track is still there, though the club is trying to run it into the ground. We were track champ a few yeas back & held the record in 2 jr. classes...

I did not make those. The previous owner of my setup did. I have replaced most of the car, but the spacers & covers stayed. They are just flat AL bar stock, bent up. I'd say it is 1/4" or 3/16 material. They bend around the studs. If they leak, I'll make some out of thicker material.
 
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