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I am building a stroked 460 ... I got a line on a 4.25 steel crank and rods all i need is the pistons. I will be eiter porting my stock open chamber heads and puting in the larger valves or geting a set of closed chamber heads and doing the same.. Super Comp headers and 2.5 exhaust with flwmaster mufflers..I have not picked a cam yet ,but I already have 1.7 Crane roller rockers and guide plates. Going to try and upgrade to a set of Crowlers or equivlant... I have not chose the carburator ,but i was running a 750 Edelbrock .. probably go with a 850 or larger holleyI am looking for cam suggestions and an estimate on horspower and torque.. All this is going in a 72 torino fastback...Its also got a 325 open diff wich will be geting a locker and possibly new 31 spline axles... BTW plan on running a set of slicks for the track and 275/40/17s for the street...

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Chris C
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168.73.245.58 stroker
No score for this post October 1 2001, 10:40 AM

4.25" steel crank, sounds like a custom job. We need cam specs to help figure out your hp and tq curves, you'll also need at least an 850cfm carb. Also, what type of headers? It's very possible the 2.5" exhaust will be too small, depending on how radical you go with the motor. Which intake do you plan to run?

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Rich
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207.215.86.148 stroker info
No score for this post October 1 2001, 11:54 AM

I am not sure on all the specs but the carnk is a high dollar custom orginally set up for a drag boat... I am meeting with the guy next weekend ...he is going to help me set up the motor ... His engines were pulling around 850 hp at 14 to 1 compression... Thats way too much for me... I am only looking for arund 500 plus...
I was going to pass on the stroker option ,but this is a good deal I think $1200 for the crank and rods?? Summit lists a cast stroker crank for $789 and 6.8 rods are $700 .. I think this steel crank is much better... As far as the 2.5 exhaust is it going to hurt anything or will it just limmit my power??? My goal is to have a streetable 12 second car... The Torino is about 4200-4400 lbs with me in it last time i weighed it i had some 351C heads in the trunk it was 4460... I am not really concerned about the maxium hp figure more interested in what the least i can expext I know it might take a lot of tuning to get the peak power out of her. I have seen a lot of 60 and 30 over 460 combos running high 12s. I would like a motor that is more than I need .that way i donot hve to push itb as hard every run !! I have some times from about when the botoom let out on the 460 14.65 @104 mph with little to no traction... 60 ft terrible...

Thanks Rich

Rich

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Rich
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207.215.86.148 One more thing
No score for this post October 1 2001, 12:28 PM

The heads i plan to build C8VE-E any recomondations.. I am on a tight budget ,so could i be better off building my open chamber heads they have already gotton a valve job just need porting work I can boost compression with a flat top or domed piston... The heads i am looking at are in a 68 t-bird and look remakably clean the interior of the car was torched i am talking fire bomb... So the motor was damm clean.. but if it is all orginal i will need hardened seats and the bigger valves of coarse porting on top of that...

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RJP
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198.81.16.52 If you are on a tight budget...
No score for this post October 1 2001, 1:15 PM

Why not pass on the billet crank and rods and invest that money in a good set of aluminum heads and manifold. Trying to rework a set of std. iron heads on a stroker is an excersize in futility. You can't get enough flow out of the iron heads [esp. on the exhaust side] to work with the extra inches unless you limit the rpm range to about 4-4.5K. A properly prepped iron crank will live in about any conditions you can throw at it. However I would go with a set of aftermarket rods. A free breathing 460 will make more power than a choked up 514.

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Chris C
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168.73.245.58 engine combo
No score for this post October 1 2001, 6:40 PM

RJP is right in many respects, the cost of building a stroker isn't the actual stroker kit, it's supporting it with the proper topend to support those extra cubes. As and example, I'm building a 408w (351 w/4" stroke). The steel crank, Eagle rods, and SRP pistons ran me ~$2k. The Holley 950HP, AFR 205 heads, custom headers, roller cam is what made it expensive. But, if I would have slapped a set of stock type heads on it, I would have only had a 400hp motor, which is easily attained with a 351.

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boatracer036
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4.54.83.101 460's make power
No score for this post October 2 2001, 12:31 AM

I have a 40 over 460 with stock crank, D7VE rods, The biggest solid lifter cam Crower makes, D0VE heads mildly exhust ported and larger valves with roller rockers and dual 660 Holleys on a Offenhauser tunnel ram in a jet boat. According to my Impeller charts this setup is making 550-575 hp.Desktop Dyno is real close. I think the cam is too big but it sure makes the motor cackle. But it shows what mostly stock parts will do when their put together right!

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Rich
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207.215.85.169 So I should just stick with my 60 over 460??
No score for this post October 2 2001, 3:59 AM

My goals are a solid low 12s in a 4400 lb car...

I plan on running slicks and a locker along with some SSM lift bars I don't want the suspension totally tuned for drag racing because I plan on doing a lot of street driving. This is what I was originally planning to Build -60 over block with cast pistons and ARP rod bolts .not sure what brand rods. slight dish on the pistons. Open chamber iron heads heavily worked over and a mild cam with Crane energizer roller rockers.
That motor is mine for $1300 plus $400 for the head porting... That is $1700...I got $5000 total to spend what do I need to do to get 500 hp to the ground??? I don't need no bells and whistles just practical suggestions..I found some closed chamber heads at the local pick n pull but they probably need hardened seats and larger valves along with a lot of port work also..Is it possible or am I dreaming??

Rich

Thanks Rich


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Rich
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207.215.85.169 Is NOS with forged piston a good option??
No score for this post October 2 2001, 4:10 AM

I know some people think its cheating, but for the price it is kinda temting... If i went that route i would be geting a jacobs mastermind and a decent set of forged pistons... Whats an aceptable compression ratio for a nitros motor... Some of the guys here are nuts with the horsepower.. I got specific goals and am not inteasted in going over ... I will not put a roll cage in my 72 Torino!!.. I love it the way it is!! If I feel the need to go faster I have a 73 Pinto Wagon that I am willing to tub and do whatever...

Rich

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RJP
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198.81.17.57 Junk the open chamber heads
No score for this post October 2 2001, 7:54 PM

Lose the open chamber heads, NFG for what you want. The closed chamber [early or closed chamber 92cc A2As] are much better for gasoline use. The quench area creates turbulance which helps control detonation, but in order to get full benefit you will need to get the deck clearance to .010" or less [.050" is minimum total- gasket compresses to about .041"] I ran a pair of open chamber heads on a turbocharged 460 and I was plagued with detonation above 9-10 lbs of boost. When I switched to a pair of D3VE-A2A closed chamber heads with zero deck clearance and a reverse dome piston I could safely run 14-15 lbs of boost on the same gas blend and same compresson ratio, 8.4 to 1.

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Rich
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207.215.85.131 How about C8VE-E heads ?? RJP?
No score for this post October 3 2001, 4:08 AM

Found some at the wreking yard they look damm clean!!
Almost looks like the motor had never been run!! 68 t-bird inteior was torched ...

Some one told me that tis is a closed chamber head but lacks the CJ valves...

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RJP
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198.81.16.158 Those will work for you
No score for this post October 3 2001, 1:19 PM

Those heads are the same as the D0VE-Cs that everybody likes to run. 75cc closed chamber, 2.09"intake/1.65"exhaust, screw-in studs...ect. My recommendation is to open the intake up to use a 2.19" SS valve with usual bowl work, clean out the exhaust port of all the lumps and bumps, raise the roof of the port bowl and drop in a set of 1.74" SS valves. Remove the positive stop studs and replace with a set of studs for a BBC. You will need a set of guide plates and harden pushrods too. With this done you will have a decent pair of heads that will work ok on a street engine but are no subsitute for a good set of aluminum heads.

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Rich
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209.77.88.170 Thanks RJP
No score for this post October 3 2001, 5:17 PM

Going to pull the heads this weekend.. I already have the guide Comp guide plates hardened pushrods and screw in studs... I also have a set of Crane 1.7 roller rockers I was told they are junk but will they work until i can upgrade to some better ones??

Rich

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RJP
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198.81.17.163 Whats wrong with the Cranes?
No score for this post October 4 2001, 12:57 AM

Crane RR are good enough to for just about anything unless you want to run some extreme valve spring pressure, then its time to step up to a set of T&Ds or Jessel. Stick with the Cranes if they are in good condition.

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Rich
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207.215.85.246 Crane 1.7 Energyzers??
No score for this post October 5 2001, 6:23 AM

I was told they wont hold up because they are cast alumnium. Same guy wanting to sell the stroker crank... I am starting to get frustrated .. Got alot of contradicting information. I am hving a khella of a time trying to decide what to buy and what not to buy .. I only have $5,000 and that needs to pay for everything to get going... I can change some things later ,but i dont want to go back inside after this build for awhile...

Rich


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Bob M
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63.26.5.134 Yes those are junk...They are the old Cam Dynamics...
No score for this post October 5 2001, 9:32 PM

Crane bought Cam Dynamics and sells their old rockers as a budget roller rocker.
The Crane "Gold" rockers on the other hand, are about the best going in a stud mounted aluminum rocker.

Bob

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RJP
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198.81.17.153 Yeah...pass on the cast rockers
No score for this post October 8 2001, 3:10 PM

I was thinking of the orig. billet rockers Crane makes.

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BMacD
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24.112.158.243 Rockers
No score for this post October 9 2001, 7:54 AM

I currently use the Crane cast aluminum rockers in my flatbottom boat engine, have for the past five years with no problems. However, I am planning an upgrade to the motor which will include new heads and valve train. Question, what are good rockers without going full race items? What is the opinion on Comp Cams Pro Magnum which are cast from a stainless steel material? Any advice?

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Brent
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208.51.255.197 comp rockers
No score for this post October 9 2001, 8:51 AM

I'm using the comp pro's on a mild 429 and a pretty radical 514 in a 69 Mach 1. No complaints here. Everything is working like it's supposed to. In my humble opinion they are a pretty darn good choice for the money.
Brent

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Bob M
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63.26.3.237 Trouble I had with the Cam Dynamics (Crane Hi Energy)...
No score for this post October 9 2001, 7:43 PM

I had them on a Windsor with a .500" Hyd cam, and the pushrod pockets started flaking damaging my Comp hardened pushrods. I now run Harland Sharp rockers (price was right) on the same engine with a .550" solid with 350# spring pressure and have thrashed it for a few years now with no probs at all.

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bruce
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64.200.176.41 dove heads
No score for this post November 21 2001, 4:00 PM

I see a lot of cars at the track in the high 10's and low 11's with c9ve and dove heads. i say go for the stroker set up and get a set of dove heads, you can always upgrade the heads later... dont skimp on the cam... 294 duration flat tappet comp cam or a 650 lift solid roller comp cam... for a semi street car use a stealth intake... you will be pleased I GUUUAARROONNTEE...
 
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