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Low/Reverse Clutch Piston

Hello, does anybody know where I can find/buy the springs for the old style low/reverse piston with all the springs?? I have one, but somehow I'm missing one spring! Does Ford still have them? Anyone have a part #? Does someone have a spare they wanna sell me?...lol Any help is great!! Thanks, Mike
 

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Gents

Apologies if this has been asked before.

I'm halfway into rebuilding a small block C6 for the first time using badshoeproductions videos which are great.

My C6 (Aussie 1989 2WD F150 V8) has 3 fibres in all the clutch packs...is this the factory amount? I ignorantly thought adding in the extra fibre would be easy but there is no way I can fit an additional fibre / steel and maintain clearances.

If I assemble the transmission sticking with just the 3 fibres will the transmission handle a mild 350-400hp 351 easily enough?

Also my C6 has an N servo with a J lever - is this combo okay for a street cruiser?

Appreciate any help

Adam
 

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3 is standard . Can put 4 in by step cutting the top pressure plate . Better still cut a new snap ring groove and fit 5.
That is for the high/reverse. The forward should have 4 frictions with a wave plate . I've never seen one with 3. Again can add more , there are 2 different thickness friction can be used .
Reverse should have either 4 or 5 frictions .
Very unusual to only have 3 in all packs

An N servo is the smallest apply there is . The J lever is the lowest ratio @ 1.495.
There are better for a basic servos like an L D or P , servo levers even a basic A or B is better IMO.
The N & J wouldn't be my choice other than for a basic stock rebuild.
One very important addition is some valvebody mods . Something like an SK-6 kit to crisp up the shifts and make the trans last
 

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Appreciate the reply mate.

I actually miscounted and have 4 frictions in the reverse clutch (thats the one with the bigger diameter frictions yeah).

Turns out I have a pre 77 model C6 in my 89 F150 so no wavy plate or lip seal piston (wish I knew that before ordering a lip seal protector).

I'm still learning about transmissions and the effect servo's have etc. All I want is a less lazier shift (I bought a shift kit as I thought this would fix the issue). Is the J Lever okay? Any reason not to rebuild the transmission with the J lever and then potentially swap to a different servo later as i wouldn't have to tear down the transmission.
 

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The reverse clutch is the one in the case . If there is no wave in that one then it will have the early piston with the loose return springs as opposed to the later that has the springs attached to the retainer plate .

As for the J lever . The way the lever works is that 1.495 is the ratio of force that applies the band. The way that works is the lower ratio applies faster but applies less force/leverage to hold the band on. To be honest it wouldn't be my choice other than a real stock build.

What shift kit did you get? The shift kit can help the shifts for sure . What you have will work , it has prior to you getting inside it . As I say the N servo and J lever wouldn't be my go to choice . There is better choices
 

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Is there a good resource anyone knows about that will give me the theory on how all the parts of this C6 work together - I'm doing this build just to learn.

Where are you sourcing all your C6 parts Greg?

I bought the C6 rebuild kit in 2013 from the states so it's been a while (decided I wanted something with overdrive, but now I just want the learning experience). I have a Fairbanks Transaction kit - pretty sure it was a decent one back in 2013, but just a basic upgrade from memory.

Its going to be bolted to a torquey 351 with probably only 350hp (previously it was on an injected 302), so hopefully a J lever will hold that power no dramas....but it wont be going in the truck for another few years so plenty of time to change my mind and strip it back down - I really love that these transmissions are so compartmentalised.
 

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I get most parts local from Motospecs or Driveline. Some I purchase direct from Broader Performance.

I don't think I've seen that Fairbanks kit. Be interesting to see the instructions . Most of the kits modify the same things just some in different ways
 

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Hi

My transmission rebuild kit and shift kit came with an oil filter assembly each, but they are different designs...any opinion on which one is better (most likely doesn't really matter)? The shift kit one is shallower.

91613

91614
 

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It all depends on which pan you have . There are 3 factory pans , all different depths .

Those are the shallow pan and medium pan. There is a filter with a rubber grommet also for the deep Bronco pans.

The medium pan has the front corners bevelled is the easiest way to identify.

It definitely does matter , the incorrect filter can restrict flow in some case, particularly if the grommet type is used in the wrong pan can completely block the pickup
 

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I must have the shallow pan, as the filter on the left is what was in the truck already....

I put the shift kit into the valve body but when I tried to install the replacement spring that came with the kit in for the pressure regulator assembly i couldn't get the booster valve to seat in deep enough to put the retaining clip on....if I swapped it out for the one it already had and it went in fine so it wasn't jamming up or anything....does not having the firmer spring defeat the purpose of the whole kit?
 

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It will work but have a lower line pressure . Something mustn't have been seated right. Maybe the boost valve wasn't right in? Something not right . Transgo stuff always works spot on .

If the pan is all square around the base then likely is the shallow. As I say the medium has a bevel on the front corners as below

91619
 

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Thanks Greg

Looks like I have the medium pan. I'm thinking maybe the spring could have been catching in the valve bore and not fully compressing - I will take the valve body apart and try it again.

Do these transmission internals corrode? I have had the parts cleaned and waiting reinstall for a couple weeks and they seem fine - bit of surface rust on the reverse clutch spring assembly (from memory it was already there). Just thinking if I plan on storing this transmission for a long time would I need to do anything different when reassembling?
 

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Just plenty of oil poured over everything once assembled before the valvebody goes in.

Make sure to screw some plugs in the cooler lines and seal up all other openings. Of course store it somewhere dry it will be fine
 

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thanks mate...appreciate your patience with my novice questions.

My reverse piston spring set has some light rusting - probably from sitting disassembled for years - if i clean it up a bit with some scotch brite im assuming this wont be a problem....the rest of the parts seem fine sitting on the shelf.

I'm having fun with the kickdown assembly (all part of the learning experience - and I thought the internals were the only bit), my 89 F150 had some kind of different setup which was different to all the workshop manuals which had me thinking i had lost some parts, but I think I have everything - luckily i took pictures years ago. Although the rod that goes through the housing to the kickdown bracket was round and I thought my bracket had a rectangle hole but i still need to check fitment (external bracket parts being painted so once cured).

91648
 
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