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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone have any pics of C6 hi/reverse drum modified for 5 clutches? Just wondering. Have read Franks description and will be doing later this week.Any pics would be good to make sure i'm on the right track.

I know the drum i'm doing has 4 clutches with a stepped pressure plate in an original 3 clutch drum. This can be modded to 5 ok? It is not the type drum with 2 grooves either so thats good....Thanks in advance for any help . :wink:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ok getting the hi/rev drum sorted . Looks like will work. I'm going to use Franks measurements and cut the snap ring groove higher in the 3 clutch drum . Will put up few pics later in this post.

Also have done all the rollers and noticed Frank uses .020"- .045" (edit my mistake) for the endfloat. Is this a lot for the rollers ,as the C4's most look to keep endfloat to like below .010" . I had .012" on teardown with a .101" thrust washer so can easy open up the endfloat.

Bearings i used the T350 bearings but for the front planet a Sonnax GM-N-11 which is a T700 torque converter bearing i believe. Worked out nice .The inside diameter fitted the front planet just right.

Thanks for any assistance.
 

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gregaust , I find of like to leave a little extra endplay (.020-.045) as I don't think it hurts anything being a little loose
Frank
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks Frank ,was just curious. So far all going great. Have done plenty roller C4's ,this is my 1st complete roller C6 ,usually just do the #9. Onto the clutch drum setup now.
 

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I'd post more pic's but swearing at the computer to upload pics doesn't seem to help and at 2 hour for a pic is a waste of time !!
Frank Phone call's are cheaper!!
Frank
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks Frank, any help is much appreciated. Ok here's some pics of my hi reverse drum.Was an original 3 clutch ,now wanting to make 5. I think i'm on the right track..

1st pic is 5 steels in and 4 clutches(one more to go.) Just checking there's plenty room so steel doesn't drop into groove


Pic 2 is all clutches and steels in place, with circlip in place and allowing for freeplay etc, looking where new snap ring groove is to go.. Am a little below the .565" mark which is just below the taper on the spline where the black mark is , but all good .

Pic 3 is checking clearance to fwd drum as per Franks instructions
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Also wondering. On the stator support the checkball for the cooler circuit. Does anyone remove the checkball and spring like is common in the C4 mods?
This trans shows no signs of heat anyway oil is like new in it after 8yrs .
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Frank Merkl said:
no don't remove it ,just pressure check it with air to make sure its free
Frank
Ok Thanks Frank, have done that already so tomorrow is onto the high/reverse drum..
 

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i think bye the time we are done we should have enough pics and info where there wont be to many questions to ask about building a c-6.

IMO as far as the end play goes, not all of the washers in the 6 will have rollers, that being said, it would be safer to say that leaving a little extra room would be better then having it to tight with the thrust washers, granted they are not loaded. but still you dont want to put pressure on the washers having things to tight.

i also added a link to this thread in the main buildup post at the top of the thread....hopefully soon i can scrap some money together and get this step by step(with pics) rebuild up for everyone and get all the pics in order. but this custody battle has drained the bank and most of my will. but i keep fighting.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Ok , have machined today for the high/reverse. Using 5 steels at .079", 5 Raybestos frictions at .078" . Pressure plate is .342" thick and using a .076" snap ring. Total pack thickness was 1.139".

Now cutting the groove the top of the new groove is .485" ( a little less than the posted measurements) up from the bottom of original groove and i am at a groove width of .102"
I am currently at .062" clearance checked using the dial gauge method.
Frank is .062" ok also for a Transgo 67-2 kit . Can adjust either way if needs to differ . Just asking in case the specs you posted more suit you manual valvebodies + also this is a bit looser to what i'm used to in C4'S and C6's in the past i've built have been a bit tighter as well.

Now in the pics when a straight edge is across the thrust washer the top edge of the snap ring is flush with the thrust washer. Looking at the taper on the lower edge of the forward drum where if fits into the high drum it looks like all will clear ok. I'm assuming since i'm under a little on the posted measurements all will fit ok.
So i THINK i'm on the right track ??? Here's some pics anyway . Appreciate any input. Will post up some roller pics soon too.



 

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looks good but you should pressure it up the clutch pack to check for clearance to you straight edge ,you don't need to worry about were the snapring is , it's a matter that the preassure plate does not come up and hit the forward drum and take up endplay , .062 is okay for 5steels and 5 fibres ,ie recomended .012-.013" per steel &fibre pair , 5x .012"= .060" or 5x.013 = .065"
Frank
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Double checked clearance today with air, have .080" clearance between pressure plate and fwd drum. The taper on the edge of the fwd drum clears fine too . I used some plasticine/playdoh i use for piston to valve clearance on motors and verified all cleared good..
 

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as this is an old post , I'll update it
to make an original 3 clutch direct drum into a 5 clutch with standard thickness clutches and steels . when cutting a new snap ring groove - using a .150" wide cutoff cutter register in the original snap ring groove - register at the outer most side of the snap ring groove - then move out .340" and cut a new snap ring groove
frank
 

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Revised directions for machining snap ring grooves in the Direct – High/reverse Drum

Factory 3 clutch Drum
Using an .125” wide cutting tool register the tool in the original snap ring groove on the outer most edge as a starting point
-Bring the tool out towards the open side of the drum
- when using factory thickness clutches and steels ( .078” each) 5 of each move the tool out .345” and cut new snap ring groove , This should give you a clutch pack clearance of .060”- .065” with the standard .078” snap ring
- when using Red Alto Power Pac clutches and Kolene steels (.061”) 6 of each move the tool out .300” this should give you a clutch pack clearance of .072”-.078” with the standard .078” snap ring
There are no Modifications required to the factory .342 thick Pressure plate

Factory 4 clutch Drum
Using an .125”wide cutting tool register the tool in the original snap ring groove on the outer most edge as a starting point
- Bring the tool out toward the open side of the drum .200” and cut a new snap ring groove this will give you a 7 clutch drum using the Red Alto Power Pac Clutches and kolene steels ( .061” thickness)
- The factory pressure plate need to be machined thinner to a thickness of .295”
- This should give you a clutch pack clearance of .084”-.091”
- The reason for the pressure plate thinning is so the pressure plate does not contact the forward drum on apply
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- Hopefully this will clarify this machining operation
- Oiling mod pictures and pic’s of the machining operation can be found here
- http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g266/fmerkl/20140222_114857_zpsefz6ywze.jpg
- http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g266/fmerkl/20140222_114055_zpspnofb64g.jpg
- http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g266/fmerkl/20140222_192941_zps62fljncg.jpg
Frank
 

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How many holes should be drilled for the oiling mods? I see by the pic that they should be staggered at 1.480 and an additional .500, just wondering what the correct spacing between holes should be.
 
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